Got out and did some serious testing today.

STIHL

Well-Known Member
Finally was able to go to the range and give the SBR and the LEE 309-230 a real test. Turned out pretty well I think.

It was humid, my glasses were fogging up and I can’t see the 100 yard target well enough through a little 1x red dot, but I’m still really happy with the results. I’m in steel shooting nirvana with this little rifle and load now. The only way it improves is out a scope on it and this dude just wasn’t built for a scope. I did shoot some steel at 100 and my good friend was able to put a couple rounds on the 12 inch gong free handed at 100 “he is really good off hand” so I’m happy with the way today played out.

I was confident in the load enough I cast another 380 give or take Friday afternoon. With the Lee mold. Only issue I had was something has went awry with my mold snd a few noses finned slightly, which I just finished going over it and cleaning it and found nothing wrong. Maybe I got the alloy too hot. Anyway. Few pics of the targets and casting session.
 

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STIHL

Well-Known Member
Here’s the rest of the pics.
 

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STIHL

Well-Known Member
@creosote thanks, they are a nice looking bullet to ne an inexpensive mold. Mine measures out fat, hope it will last me many years, because according to most theirs drops small.
 

creosote

Well-Known Member
If you drill and tap for set screws on the sprue plate screw they seem to last a good long time.
(Sprue screws are left hand)
Not sure if you already knew that?
Mark
 

STIHL

Well-Known Member
@creosote I did know they were Left hand, took me a while to few to figure that out the first one i bought. I had actually thought about drilling and tapping a lock screw on them the sprue gets loose very easily and cause galling on the 2 cavitys.

what size set screw would you use? a 4 or 6?
 

STIHL

Well-Known Member
I was thinking 6 after I asked that 4 is awful small. being in that aluminum, I may try an 8, I've got one that I accidentally bought 2 of so I think I will try it on that one. its not rocket science, but just in case I make a mistake. It will aslo have to be done with the handles attached as the handle screw are froze in place on the 2-3 I tried to take off for cleaning.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The handle screws aren't really screws. The pitch is about maybe 2 turns per inch, it's more of a splined pin with a twist and is pressed in. The hole is not tapped, the pin broaches its own "threads" as it is pressed in. If you get a cheap allen wrench that still has a burr on the tip from being sheared to length, you can use it to grab the inside of the pin's socket and pull while you twist. It takes a lot of torque and pull but they will come out eventually. The twist is right-hand and it helps if you wiggle the pin back and forth with about as much force as the socket head can take to loosen up the bite of the splines on the inside of the hole.
 
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