Gotta chance at a Savage 11
- Thread starter Brother_Love
- Start date
Watching the coffee brewing so still a little sleepy eyed.If you want some brain food/jog or study material..... Read up on ILF limb system for trad bows.Not the intention or reason for it's adoption,no... read about how the poundage and tillering is adjustable. Now consider the "floating tang" theory as it applies to accuracy enhancements on Savage bolt guns or 110's and derivatives. It's a lot closer than it appears.Each style(locked/torqued down dual bolt vs ILF) has advantages,and not saying one is better.But if you subscribe to "floating 110 tangs"..... uhhh,there's so much stuff,"left on the table" that we may need to call a cleaning crew.Personally,a French maid would work for me.Coffe time.
Ian
Notorious member
Savage bolt action receivers are made from relatively soft, ductile metal which doesn't have a lot of spring temper in it. The rails are very thin and flimsy. Two bolts hold the action to the factory pillars, with the tang bolt being well ahead of the end of the tang. Under recoil, the action bucks, arching up between the receiver rings and pushing the tip of the tang downward. If the tang is bedded, the action flex stretches the threads of the rear action screw. If the nut or any part of the barrel is bedded, it stretches the threads of the front action screw. The only places to bed a 11X or a 1X Savage action is in the immediate proximity of the pillars, behind the recoil lug, and along both sides of the recoil lug. The bottom and front of the lug need have clearance because it frets up and down during the firing cycle.
Good info Ian.
Too lazy to go look as to exactly how far I took the bedding on my blued,round back SA 243. Some of our Savages get extensive,reconstructive surgery around the mag wells.It's done with Smooth-on EA40 epoxy( bow epoxy) and fibre glass matting.The notion is stiffening up the thin stock walls in this section,which gives more support for action bedding. Can't remember if the above 243 got that treatment.
But what I can remember, and this IS with work done to float the tang..... the rear action screw's torque shows up on group size. 95 g RCBS,nose sized...as cast body,hand lubed only above GC,WW's... water quenched.Play with nothing more than the rear screw and groups would go from 1 1/2" @100 to ragged holes. Factory skinny brrl ,less than 100 rounds.Maybe seen a box of JB's through.It IS a one load CB rig.Just gotta play with the rear screw.
Too lazy to go look as to exactly how far I took the bedding on my blued,round back SA 243. Some of our Savages get extensive,reconstructive surgery around the mag wells.It's done with Smooth-on EA40 epoxy( bow epoxy) and fibre glass matting.The notion is stiffening up the thin stock walls in this section,which gives more support for action bedding. Can't remember if the above 243 got that treatment.
But what I can remember, and this IS with work done to float the tang..... the rear action screw's torque shows up on group size. 95 g RCBS,nose sized...as cast body,hand lubed only above GC,WW's... water quenched.Play with nothing more than the rear screw and groups would go from 1 1/2" @100 to ragged holes. Factory skinny brrl ,less than 100 rounds.Maybe seen a box of JB's through.It IS a one load CB rig.Just gotta play with the rear screw.
The problem is,reckon it could be called backlash? with the rear screw.Running it very loose not only sees it possibly backing out(yeah,it's that loose),but there's no support on one side of it.
Stupid smart phone cut me off.Had a pretty good explanation for a custom rear pillar and micrometer rear screw. Now I'm hungry.... doh.
Stupid smart phone cut me off.Had a pretty good explanation for a custom rear pillar and micrometer rear screw. Now I'm hungry.... doh.
Ian
Notorious member
Yeppers, only covers half the hole because the sear stirrup is in the way. Note, however, that the missing half is on the back side, the side that flexes down during recoil anyway. When you put on a new stock, you can fix the torque-sensitivity issue by making the rear pillar round as normal and grind the stirrup to clear, also you can "hour glass" the pillar slightly below the top for more clearance. Use STEEL instead of aluminum, aluminum frets away over time, and if the receiver finish is rough (steel grit-blasted) where it rests on the pillars, file and sand it smooth.
If you overtighten the rear screw with the notched, factory pillar, you can induce action bow. Check with a dial indicator mounted to forend with indicator on the bottom of the barrel as you adjust the rear action screw tension, watch it flex. Medium-strength threadlocker is your friend for maintaining light torque, same trick for transmission pan bolts where if they are loose enough not to cave in the flange and cause leaks, they will fall out. With both steel pillars in mostly full-contact with the action, 45 inch pounds on both should be fine, or put 45 on the front and tune the rear at the range, then paint-pencil the head and reinstall with thread locker.
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
I left the shop Saturday afternoon around 4:00, and the trucks thermometer showed 117 degrees. I did realize that that was in part from the radiant heat from the dark blue truck. Still, once out on the highway at 60 mph it still showed 102*.
Brother_Love
Well-Known Member
I feel bad posting this response about my rifle on the weather thread but here goes ;>).
I did get the rifle and I’ve cleaned the bore with copper bore cleaner and got it ready to break in with cast bullets. I found a great YouTube video that details how to stiffen the plastic stock. If it shows promise I am going to restock it with s Boyds thumbhole. I’ve got 100 rounds of cast loads ready to go. I hope to have a range report within a couple of weeks.
I did get the rifle and I’ve cleaned the bore with copper bore cleaner and got it ready to break in with cast bullets. I found a great YouTube video that details how to stiffen the plastic stock. If it shows promise I am going to restock it with s Boyds thumbhole. I’ve got 100 rounds of cast loads ready to go. I hope to have a range report within a couple of weeks.
Ian
Notorious member
Oops, I thought it was an action bedding thread...
Well, congratulations on the trade, I think you came out a little ahead on that one.
I'd leave the stock alone unless intending to use the bipod, in which case I'd inlet a pair of chainsaw files into the forearm and fill all the voids up with resin and chopped glass, or whatever method you prefer to remove some of the twisty/floppy. The stock being super-flimsy actually works to the accuracy advantage because it doesn't stress the action much at all....it can't because it isn't stiff enough. Something more rigid like a hand-laid glass stock or a laminated wood stock can stress the heck out of the action, though, and that's where bedding and pillars sure help.
Well, congratulations on the trade, I think you came out a little ahead on that one.
I'd leave the stock alone unless intending to use the bipod, in which case I'd inlet a pair of chainsaw files into the forearm and fill all the voids up with resin and chopped glass, or whatever method you prefer to remove some of the twisty/floppy. The stock being super-flimsy actually works to the accuracy advantage because it doesn't stress the action much at all....it can't because it isn't stiff enough. Something more rigid like a hand-laid glass stock or a laminated wood stock can stress the heck out of the action, though, and that's where bedding and pillars sure help.
Yup,flimsy stock acts as a vibration damper.One of the rifle co.s,may even BE Savage? is using a Mathews bow recoil reducer (its round,can't think of the parent co....think it's Simms) in the buttstock.
Ian is correct about bipod use with tupperware.Carbon archery arrows are the shnitz for stiffening forearms.The problem for most rigs is that it changes balance point to the front. Savage's however,as aluded to above seem to like having weight taken off the back,go figure?A better setup,and not that goofy "accuracy inhancer" sliding block arrangement( gets milled into forearm)that's been on the mrkt for 15 or so years..... is a luthier style truss rod.Adds no real weight if you make it out of carbon fibre.
Sorry for the slight derail,I take production Savage CB accuracy a little too serious sometimes.Good luck with your project BL.
Ian is correct about bipod use with tupperware.Carbon archery arrows are the shnitz for stiffening forearms.The problem for most rigs is that it changes balance point to the front. Savage's however,as aluded to above seem to like having weight taken off the back,go figure?A better setup,and not that goofy "accuracy inhancer" sliding block arrangement( gets milled into forearm)that's been on the mrkt for 15 or so years..... is a luthier style truss rod.Adds no real weight if you make it out of carbon fibre.
Sorry for the slight derail,I take production Savage CB accuracy a little too serious sometimes.Good luck with your project BL.
Brother_Love
Well-Known Member
I’m going to shoot as is for now. I’m also reading and watching info about how to bed or re-stock. Made 2 pages of notes last night. Lots to learn since I’ve not been exposed to Savage that much. I had a 110 in 270 years ago in a Boyd’s stock and it would stack one bullet on top of another. I still regret letting it get away.
M3845708Bama
Active Member
Stocks similar to a choate really make them pop! The long v block bending block works and dramatically reduces action screw tension impact on accuracy. A number of premium U.N. stock manufactures now use the solid aluminum built in bedding blocks with excellent results. Most will shoot ve ry close to the solid aluminum frame guns at half the cost.