GP-100 357 Magnum
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
About half a carton of $3.99 SP primers. Bullets were rejected ones from my nra Bullseye loading. Bullseye powder was $2.99 a pound on sale.
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
So four shooters get lunch served off the back of the IH Scout, make gravel out of rocks or see who can shoot line off of sage brush. And if dry enough long range “way far” away.
Good memories for the family. Leave after breakfast and no get home until dinner time.
Where do you get the spring kits? My 3" 44 spec has a much harder trigger pull than my 357s. This mite sound like a dumb question bit do large pistol primers require a harder strike than the small ones. If it doe's I don't want to put a spring kit in if it would be unreliable.We both love this one.
It is a SHOOTER !!!!!!!!!!
I put a spring kit in this one. Considering that it is a coil spring revolver, It is amazingly smooth in double action.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
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Great people to deal with.
The primer size is not critical BUT you generally do not want to drop the GP-100 hammer spring weight down more than a few pounds.
The factory hammer spring is 14 pounds. I would not go below 10 pounds (A 12# hammer spring with some careful polishing and some shims if needed will likely get you where you want to be)
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Thumbcocker
Well-Known Member
I have worked on the triggers of a few Sp 101 and GP Rugers. I never change out the factory hammer spring. Pull the trigger group, polish any part that rubs on another part with a buffing wheel on a dremel tool and metal polish, buff the pivot pins and trigger and hammer sears and put in a reduced power trigger return spring. I never stone or file. Lubricate with a needle oiler and reassemble. Dry fire. Dry fire. Dry fire.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
I've improved several DA Rugers, including the GP-100, SP101, Service-Six, Speed-Six, etc.
Similar to the steps that Thumbcocker outlines, I polish key areas where needed. After, those are cleaned up, I'll install trigger shims if needed (often they are not needed) and shims for the DA sear (hammer dog) but I don't like shims on the hammer pin because they make removing and re-installing the hammer a PITA.
Once everything is nicely polished, de-burred, shimmed if needed and generally cleaned up - then I'll think about swapping out springs. Often, I'll leave the factory trigger spring in place because I want a very fast and positive trigger reset in DA. If I install a reduced power hammer spring, I'll only drop the weight by about 2 pounds.
Installing a reduced power hammer spring is a double-edged sword. While it will reduce the trigger pull weight in DA, it comes at the cost of reduced hammer energy and potentially increased lock time.
Similar to the steps that Thumbcocker outlines, I polish key areas where needed. After, those are cleaned up, I'll install trigger shims if needed (often they are not needed) and shims for the DA sear (hammer dog) but I don't like shims on the hammer pin because they make removing and re-installing the hammer a PITA.
Once everything is nicely polished, de-burred, shimmed if needed and generally cleaned up - then I'll think about swapping out springs. Often, I'll leave the factory trigger spring in place because I want a very fast and positive trigger reset in DA. If I install a reduced power hammer spring, I'll only drop the weight by about 2 pounds.
Installing a reduced power hammer spring is a double-edged sword. While it will reduce the trigger pull weight in DA, it comes at the cost of reduced hammer energy and potentially increased lock time.