GP-100

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
In another thread we explored Ruger’s great SP101 and I refrained from discussing the GP-100.

Well, I can’t put it off any longer, it’s time for the GP-100 but we’ll stay away from the dreaded GP verses L-frame debate. That dead horse has been beaten, buried, dug up and beaten again many times over. We do have to talk about the L-frame a little for historical context, but I promise I will stay away from the Ford v. Chevy type discussion.

In the days before the magnum K-frames, a .357 magnum meant a N-frame revolver or something along those lines: big & heavy. The concept of the magnum K-frame was good idea. They allowed magnum performance in a package that is easy to carry. Unfortunately, when exposed to high round counts of magnum loads, particularly with lightweight (shorter) bullets, the magnum K-frames turned out to be “A Bridge Too Far”. A good idea but maybe just a little too much for the platform over long periods of time. In 1980 Smith & Wesson addressed the issue with the introduction of the L-frames. (Models 581, 586, 681, 686).

Back at the Ruger estate, William Ruger was busy working on what would become the replacements for the DA Six series guns – The SP101 and GP-100. The S&W L-frames had a 5-year head start but when the GP-100 was introduced in 1985, the battle lines were drawn. I promised that I would avoid the Ruger / S&W debate, so that’s all I’m going to write about that.

The DA Six series guns (Security, Service, Speed-Six) had frames that were close to the size of the S&W K-frame but the Rugers were designed as .357 magnums from the beginning. By the 1980’s, Bill Ruger was seeking to update his design of the DA revolver. Those changes included a peg style grip frame, a crane lock (functionally similar to the old S&W triple lock), a replaceable front sight for the adjustable sight models, a non-rotating ejector rod, a heavy under lug / ejector rod shroud, and a simplified trigger group. In addition to those changes, the frame and cylinder became a little bit larger overall. The result was a seriously strong DA revolver – The GP-100.

At the time, Ruger devotees wanted the DA Six Series to remain in production alongside the new GP-100. There was a short overlap from 1985 through 1988 when both the GP-100 line and the DA Six’s were made. In 1988 the last of the DA Six Series guns left the factory. William Ruger had no intention of competing with himself.

Now, it’s critical to remember the time when all of this occurred. In 1980 the DA revolver was still king in American law enforcement, corrections and private security. By the mid 1980’s we had two entirely new .357 Magnum revolver platforms, and by the end of the decade, semi-auto pistols had claimed the lead.

The GP-100 was introduced 36 years ago, and it is still in production. There’s no need to get into an unwinnable comparison against its contemporary rival.
The GP-100 is, in my opinion, an outstanding and seriously strong DA revolver.
 
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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I dearly love my GP 100. I can’t tell you how many new shooters were introduced to shooting by that revolver and 38 special loads.
Strong as all get out. Mine has enough rounds thru it to have a very smooth trigger. I have fired it enough that in double actionI know when the trigger is going to break.
Mine is SS and whatever Ruger uses is the most wear resistant stuff around. Fire lapping requires more rounds than anything I have ever seen.

My wife chose a 686 over a GP 100 like mine and it is a fine revolver. Is one better than the other? I can’t say but the GP 100 is one hell of a fine revolver.
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
I can't help it, I cut my teeth with S&W revolvers. Mainly Model 66's, 686, and a 3" model 36. I also played with a Model 28 Highway Patrolman N frame.

My brother owns and shoots a GP-100. His seems reasonably well made, heavy, but the double action is just awful. It makes no difference to my brother since he only shoots it single action, and the single action pull while not great isn't too bad. I don't know if the GP-100 is really heavy or just feels awkward in my hand....but it feels heavier than even the N-frame.

I learned to shoot revolvers double action, and carried one for on and off duty use for some years before my department went to semi-auto's. I know of no department in SE Michigan who issued Ruger revolvers during my years with the PD. I never tried to clean up the Ruger's trigger and my brother see's no sense in trying since it suits him as it is.

Like I said my tastes and expectations are biased by my experience. It seems a decent gun, but I would have to do some serious work on the double action trigger if my brother's is any indication. I am not a Ruger hater, have a LCR3x and like it a lot (yes I did clean it up and shim it to improve the double action trigger).
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Mine is SS and whatever Ruger uses is the most wear resistant stuff around. Fire lapping requires more rounds than anything I have ever seen.
I don't know the exact alloy Ruger uses but that is some EXTREMELY hard steel.

I had a SS GP-100 that I reamed the throats and fire lapped the barrel. It took a lot of rounds to get the barrel close to where I wanted it. I actually stopped fire lapping long before I needed to and it still scared me.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I replaced the mainspring on mine and it made a huge difference in trigger pull
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I don't know the exact alloy Ruger uses but that is some EXTREMELY hard steel.

I had a SS GP-100 that I reamed the throats and fire lapped the barrel. It took a lot of rounds to get the barrel close to where I wanted it. I actually stopped fire lapping long before I needed to and it still scared me.
I wouldn’t call it hard as much as abrasion resistant. I must have used 80 rounds with 240 grit to remove the thread choke. This was before I had the knowledge to polish the forcing cone properly so I used the aluminum cone that come with the Lewis lead remover to polish mine.
Good thing is now that it is right I don’t think I will shoot it out in my lifetime.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
The GP-100 action responds very well to a little attention.

Some careful polishing of key areas. Maybe some trigger shims. Slightly lighter springs can help too. From the factory, the internal finish can be a little rough and the springs are far heavier than they need to be. The springs are so heavy to start with you can drop the mainspring weight a little bit and make a huge improvement without sacrificing reliability.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I had a couple of other pistols before I bought the 74' SS Sec 6 which I thought had a pretty good trigger . Single it's not bad , probably 5.5# , double it's 8 ish and pretty smooth .........until I shot it side by side with a 1947 made very early M10 Smith untouched since new . I should probably have sold the Ruger long ago , last time I shot it it was after the 1918 1917 Smith the trigger directly feels like 5 miles of gravel washboard and breaks like a softening carrot .

I did get to fondle a Match Master (?) whatever it is 101 . I'm sure the factory grips had something to do with it but the reflection of it feeling bigger is on point the 4" example felt a lot like that M25 JM . I have a standard hand width hand , span 8-1/4" thumb to pinky tips and wear 4 size 14 rings and a 10 so grips that feel good don't always shoot well .
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Never owned a GP-100, but have shot my friends'. The trigger reach to too long for my short fingers and growing up on S&W just didn't feel right. Hope those that like them enjoy them.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Never owned a GP, as I've always felt the 'Six series was already pushing the mass/volume envelope for me, so I've stuck with those.

They can tune up very nicely, but you have to do it - lots of little touches in there that need some attention on the outset, because they didn't get that attention at the factory.

My guess is that a GP100 would "clean up" well too.
 
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CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Same here, Never owned a GP100 but I have had a few Speed Six and a Service Six revolvers.

I can real close with the 10mm then slapped myself back to reality and looked at the 44 spl. If it was a full 6" Id probably have one. (Need 6" to hunt with a hand gun here)

CW
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I think the GP-100 has always suffered a bit from a perception problem. I’m not going to say the GP-100 has a fantastic trigger right out of the box. But I will say that I think the actions get labeled as far worse than they really are.

There are a few reasons for this slightly undeserved reputation: The spring weights, particularly the hammer spring, are unnecessarily heavy. Ruger was forced to defend themselves in several large lawsuits over their early single action revolvers that were made before the transfer bar safety was incorporated. Ruger prevailed in most of those suits, but they may have become excessively safety conscience after those proceedings. The lawyers may have exercised a bit too much influence over the later engineering and erred on the side of heavier springs are better.

The GP-100 does not have removable side plates, a carryover from the earlier Six series. This allows for an exceptionally strong revolver. However, this arrangement requires that most of the lock work be mounted to the removable trigger group. This results in some compromises in geometry. Ruger did a fairly good job in making good compromises, but some concessions must be made.

The finish on some of the internal parts isn’t always the best. Frankly, I think this gets a little overblown. Ruger does a decent job of machining what needs to be finished but there are a few places they could sometimes do better. The hammer strut, hammer dog (DA sear), trigger plunger, main spring seat are all stamped steel parts. A little work with a stone can deliver a much smoother part. Some people will say that you shouldn’t have to do all of that finishing work yourself – To which I will reply, “You are absolutely correct :D“ .

It seems the most common compliant about the GP-100 is the feel of the action. That complaint may be a little overblown. The actions will wear in nicely and you can improve them with a little work. It is hard (nearly impossible) to wear one out.

Outside of the trigger pull issues, the GP-100 is capable of excellent accuracy. The guns are incredibly durable and reliable. The GP-100, like many Ruger products, is an excellent value.
 
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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Does a Ruger have the fit, feel, and finish of a Smith? No

But have you ever heard of someone wearing out a Ruger?

Some work might be needed but I view that as a minor thing. Which of us hasn’t doe a little work on a mould to make it better? The same guy who will bed a rifle action and not blink an eye will complain that his revolver needed some minor work to get it right. I have always appreciated that a Ruger makes a revolver that is easy to strip down for work and cleaning. I can’t think of another manufacturer who does that.

I can say with confidence that I would be equally satisfied with either my GP 100 or my wife’s 686. I really see them as two peas in a pod.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Ruger has always delivered a rock-solid revolver. They work, don't have to be re-timed every five minutes like the prissy little Smiths do, don't require a drawer full of spare parts to keep them running, gobble up bucketfulls of hot loads without issue, fire primers with authority, do not reverse-index under heavy recoil, and double as a hammer or club in a pinch. Rugers are NOT: race-tuned, priced like a tuned custom-shop piece, necessarily exciting in the accuracy department, nor are machined or assembled to rigid tolerances. You can expect thread choke from the 6' cheater pipe used to turn the barrel wrench (indexing the threads or cutting the barrel shoulder for a much less aggressive fit costs more time, machinery, employees, and money), and you can expect the chambers to be all different sizes because the cylinder is gang-bored and the reamers are replaced only as needed and not as a set. Reamers are expensive and add to the bottom line if the whole mess is replaced every time one gets dull or chipped. Forcing cones are ragged because they're reamed too fast with worn-out tools, but it doesn't matter much when 98% of the end users feed them Winchester Silvertips or whatever jacketed factory ammo they have.

So, when you buy a Ruger, you get a gun that works as intended by the manufacturer, and as was pointed out is going to err on the side of safety and function rather than fine finish and match-quality smoothness. You buy a project that is solid from the start and can improve upon it as you wish.

There are six S&W revolvers in our household and every one of them save the Sauer clone is pretty much garbage. I've managed to fix four of them to functional order (all suffering major factory defects), one is in a box in pieces, and the other is mothballed due to needing end shake shims and a new hammer nose. My Victory Model 10 has a scary-light SA trigger and has not been altered. When I got it it wouldn't fire until I made a .35" shim for the cylinder so the hammer nose would reach the primer. The frame has not been stretched, it was made that way (yeah, ok, wartime expediency but GEEZUS at least make it shoot? ) I could go on and on but I won't take another one of S&W's headaches if it was FREE. in fact, I only paid money for one of the ones I have and that was because of sentimental value to my FIL's estate. The others were gifts, inheritance, or trades to my wife and me. I'll take Uberti repros and Rugers, thank you very much. Rant off!
 

dannyd

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately for the GP‘s and the Sp’s the quality has gone down over the years. Still love them.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Got a GP100 in .357 and .22LR. Need to do something to lighten the DA trigger pull on the .22. The .357 has a heavy but acceptably crisp pull. Would love to get one in .44 spcl.

Most people will never wear out a S&W or a Ruger. I've got various K & N frames, most have better trigger pulls but I'll take a stainless steel GP100 for long term toughness.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
...........Most people will never wear out a S&W or a Ruger.....................
Most people don't realize that either though.

On my last acquisition, the "right" Smith would have been snapped up in a heartbeat, but the Service Six came along first. I was actually passively looking for another SP101.

When I was "twenty-something," I 1) had many more years to wear a revolver out, and 2) actually thought I could do it, 3) loaded t he 357 like a 357, which is stiffer than I think today's loads are.

Forty years later, I 1) have fewer years to wear one out, and 2) don't get to shoot nearly as much ass I used to, and 3) I don't shoot the kind of loads I used to either.

So, for me, NO, I wouldn't wear either out at this point.

I still just really like the Rugers ('Six series and SP101s), but then I really like Charter Arms' revolvers too - not just because of the price.

I feel that I deserve a S&W at this point in my life as well, but the ones I like are way out of my budget league and very hard to find.