Water glass used to be used to preserved eggs, dip and let dry. Obama used it to destroy automobiles during the cash for clunkers fiasco. In my experience, such as it is. I'd use Locktite 680 or equivalent and don't forget the primer. If it has to stay put, it's almost as good as a taper pin. YMMV.
The problem with all the methacrylate esters is that they fail under high heat. Some, like "blue Loctite" 24200 let go at less than 200°F. Suppressors get very hot and muzzle mounts really get heat-soaked due to high mass and low surface area exposed to the atmosphere. That heat plus the vibrations and torque of shooting tend to melt conventional thread lockers and cause the muzzle device to loosen. Even a slightly loose suppressor will sag and misalign, often resulting in catastrophic baffle strikes. At upwards of $1500 for some suppressors plus tax stamp and several month wait time for ATF Form 3 dealer transfer plus six month wait for Form 4 transfer to individual, you can see why keeping one tight when hot is imperative. That's why Rocksett is marketed, it is only a low-to-medium strength threadlocker (if surfaces are properly cleaned and degreased before assembly), but it will maintain its strength to nearly 2,000°F. Extreme holding power isn't required with proper muzzle device torque, but the "lock" needs to be impervious to heat and consistent through many thermal cycles.
Soaking in water will soften sodium silicate if the part needs to be removed, though the word is that it might take several days for water to fully penetrate a long threaded section.
I haven't tried the sodium silicate in place of Rocksett yet, but being chemically similar it should be a viable alternative. Rocksett seems to be a blend of sodium and potassium silicates dissolved in water whereas the stove adhesive is straight sodium silicate/water, but according to the SDS of both they have the same CAS number (sodium metasilicate) and almost identical pH. I'm going to call it "close 'nuff".
