I got a fever...and the only cure is a new rifle!

Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
I googled Darcy extractor and see how that works with the flat spring.
 
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popper

Well-Known Member
Shotgun style or like my CVA, spring loaded legged strut under barrel but your model doesn't have much meat under the barrel. Like the (IIRC martinit) U shaped extractor, turn the 'blade' parallel to bore andIMG_0233.JPG one or 2 'slices' in the barrel and lower. Make sense?
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Actually yes, it does make sense. The trick would be to sort out how to make it load a spring and then release it at the end of the lever stroke.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
My crude dwg used a floating link to the lever but a tension spring could work. A floating sleeve & reversing lever on the hammer spring would be complicated but could work. Just not much room in front of bolt. #1 ruger has a pretty strong ejection system.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The hammer vs. in-line striker debate has me going mire than extractor/ejector. I'm totally enamored with the elegant simplicity of the Hagn action but have been working in a new direction. Drawing not finalized but I have all the fuzzy parts worked out in my head (like the conflict of the cocking bar and bolt link at the bottom of the bolt, and the means of keeping the sear stirrup in place).

20210221_233155.jpg

The receiver can be made entirely out of a 2.5x1.5x5" 4140 prehard on my 7x14 lathe due to short tangs.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
The long cocking transfer bar is under compression and could bend. Safety is a sear block, concern that moving it could allow a firing.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
That's why I post my ideas. The cocking bar was straight originally but I was trying to duck the cross pins through the bolt. All the pins have to be under the bar anyway so that's easy enough to fix now.

So I need to change to an override trigger style, give the sear more engagement with the striker, and use the safety to block the trigger?
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Not saying it's wrong, just some concerns. Actually I like #69 best but extractor is major problem.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Another try with the striker system. Cicks on opening via roller on tip of action lever arm riding cam face of cocking lever. Cocking lever is spring-loaded forward so it rides the roller through full travel keeping lever closed and also open at full down. Sear angle loads trigger notch. Safety is a hoop or rod with bent ends that wedges between trigger and sear when activated after the striker is cocked. If trigger notch fails while safety is set the sear and trigger will pinch the bar end and make releasing the safety extremely difficult.

I need to come up with a better cocking lever spring (maybe like AR hammer spring) and redraw the bolt link so it makes sense. Also the coil spring holding up the extractor won't work, needs wire loop or flat spring to keep it in place.

20210228_214346.jpg
 

FrankCVA42

Active Member
Silly question, if going to a single shot. Why not do one using the cadet martini action?. Short action,compact and should work without any tricks. But may have to rework the extractor for the slightly larger rim on the 38 special case. If interested I could dig out some old military 38 special brass for you to fool around with. Many of them still have the red rough from when I tumbled them with crushed walnut media. Say 100 or so. You may have better luck finding a beatup cadet martini than a Marlin 1894 in 357 caliber. Frank
 

Ian

Notorious member
I considered the Cadet, friend has one in .357 Magnum and it is neat. The action is genius. However, the Martini-Henry rifles are to my mind's eye UGLY.

I have in mind a certain shape, sort of Gibbs/Farquharsen, Martin Hagn, or Ruger #1 shape with internal hammer, tang safety, long pistol grip with cap, slab sides, and hidden fasteners and pins.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Yup, AR hammer spring was under consideration. It's a bit wide fir the action channel but I've made tons of wire springs before. It would make more sense to hook the hammer from the back side in your illustration, less pressure on the engagement notches and less crowding of the floorplate.

I'm working on a slightly different, simpler system now than my previous illustration. Trying to work with a cocking bar and in-line striker cocked and held with a tumbler.
 
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popper

Well-Known Member
I looked at that for the sear but the leg is in tension, not compression. Did you understand the safety I drew? Bumps lock the bar in fire or safe positions. Saw an ar trigger that had the sear on the hammer safety hook. trigger1.jpg