Exactly. I looked at what Rick had and was concerned about pinching my fingers between ram and die. I simply reversed it so the check sits on the flare tool and fingers can stay well clear.
Mine is OSHA approved!
Is there
- Thread starter Tomme boy
- Start date
Mine is OSHA approved!
462
California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
And requires a half-dozen warning labels.
wquiles
Well-Known Member
Rick - great read. You explain that in a way it is easy to understand.
Are there some visuals/pictures of this check sizer that I can see? Maybe another thread?
Here is one of the types i made probably 30 years ago. This is the one Brad used as inspiration for his. With mine the anvil is in the shell holder and the punch is in the die body. Brad reversed that set up and it was a definite improvement. NOE now sells Brads version.
Making a check flare tool
Since I was making a couple today I decided to takes some photos. I start with a piece of 5/8 O1 steel. It is chucked up in the 4 jaw close to center and trued. First step is cutting the nose to a diameter based on the caliber it is being made for. I like to go about .040 to .060 over...
www.artfulbullet.com
wquiles
Well-Known Member
OK, since NOE still has their gas check seating die on back order, I decided to make one. For the main body, I used the die blank I bought right here in this forum. I drilled and reamed to size:
Then used a left-over piece of leaded steel (5/8" OD) and used it to make the floating inner part:
Left one end bigger to act as a stop and also to hold the top punches - pretty much identical to NOE's:
But instead of holding the floating part with a circlip "thinguie", I decided to thread the end and use a simple washer:
I then drilled and threaded for a small set screw to hold the top punch. I still have to machine a new "short" insert for the ram - hopefully this coming weekend:
I then cleaned and applied Brownells cold blue:
Now, question. Since the bottom ram insert is just a flat piece, why does NOE provided 3x sizes? Isn't ONE enough?
Then used a left-over piece of leaded steel (5/8" OD) and used it to make the floating inner part:
Left one end bigger to act as a stop and also to hold the top punches - pretty much identical to NOE's:
But instead of holding the floating part with a circlip "thinguie", I decided to thread the end and use a simple washer:
I then drilled and threaded for a small set screw to hold the top punch. I still have to machine a new "short" insert for the ram - hopefully this coming weekend:
I then cleaned and applied Brownells cold blue:
Now, question. Since the bottom ram insert is just a flat piece, why does NOE provided 3x sizes? Isn't ONE enough?
Ian
Notorious member
I don't know why three punches. I use a Lyman 45 and the gas check seater that's included with the 450, together with the appropriate sizing die, to seat and halfway crimp my gas checks. If I were making one like you did I'd simply drill the die blank end for a light slip-fit of the top punch stem, grind a boring bar to cut an internal O-ring groove, stuff an O-ring in it to hold the stems with friction, and make a seating punch with a counter-bore the correct diameter, depth, and angle of sides to give me firm seating and a very light crimp.
That is what works for my Redding press. It seems a bit tighter on tolerances than some other presses. It won’t take fat threads on a die and the ram won’t accept some shell holders.
I have learned that if it fits my T7 then it will fit about anything.
I have learned that if it fits my T7 then it will fit about anything.
wquiles
Well-Known Member
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Exactly what I needed to know
I have not done knurling in many years, but I decided to get my cut knurler out and try it for this adapter:
I didn't get it quite perfectly centered, so the knurl pattern is slightly asymmetric:
I am sure it will be ok for these couple of ram adapters I will make tomorrow Sunday
Yes except go closer to .555 than .560.
Going off memory I was close but went and measured to make sure.
Make sure the outside corners are all well broken but make the inside corners nice and sharp. I use a small square needle file to get the inside corners sharp.
If you can make the cuts but leave the stock long enough to throw it back in the lathe if adjustments are needed to fit your press. I hate overly tight fitting shell holders, they are bad to get in and even worse to get back out.
Going off memory I was close but went and measured to make sure.
Make sure the outside corners are all well broken but make the inside corners nice and sharp. I use a small square needle file to get the inside corners sharp.
If you can make the cuts but leave the stock long enough to throw it back in the lathe if adjustments are needed to fit your press. I hate overly tight fitting shell holders, they are bad to get in and even worse to get back out.
