is this modification to AR's safe
- Thread starter Kevin Stenberg
- Start date
Longone
Active Member
IMHO the trigger is something you don’t want to fool around with. They will always cause you problems when you need it most, I admit I did not throughly read the article probably because of the writers handle. Buy yourself a trigger that you can afford from a quality maker and don’t look back.
https://geissele.com/lower-parts/triggers.html
There is one maker with a stellar reputation, AR triggers over the years have evolved from makers like Milazo-Krieger to Jewel and a host of other including drop in units of various weight of pull.
Decide what your primary use will be and select the weight of pull that is best suited.
The trigger is not something that should be in the back of your mind with a question mark next to it.
Let the shopping begin!!!
https://geissele.com/lower-parts/triggers.html
There is one maker with a stellar reputation, AR triggers over the years have evolved from makers like Milazo-Krieger to Jewel and a host of other including drop in units of various weight of pull.
Decide what your primary use will be and select the weight of pull that is best suited.
The trigger is not something that should be in the back of your mind with a question mark next to it.
Let the shopping begin!!!
Longone
Active Member
If you get bored and need more,
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=AR+triggers&userItemsPerPage=48
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=AR+triggers&userItemsPerPage=48
Yep. Buy a good two stage trigger like a Geissele and prepare to be amazed.
I have a professionally worked over two stage, before the above mentioned was available, and it is awesome. First stage takes up most of the weight leaving maybe a pound on final crisp stage.
I have a professionally worked over two stage, before the above mentioned was available, and it is awesome. First stage takes up most of the weight leaving maybe a pound on final crisp stage.
RBHarter
West Central AR
I'll be honest . I bought a some assy required "kit" from Blackthorme and later put a good quality trigger in it rated at 4.5 lb and short reset . Now I'm not saying that I have some special technique or really amazing triggers in everything . (That Rem Model 14 was the definition of long and gritty in spite of having had 70 yr to wear in ) But I really didn't see , feel other note any huge amazing difference between the GI parts and the $140 trigger and hammer parts . I suspect that the hammer spring load has something to do with that and if I pull it down again I might put the GI hammer spring back in it .
I shot the rifle enough to have a wear polish show up on the sear faces and it wasn't square or centered so it wasn't a near perfect trigger . It only had about 35% contact and possibly and oil film for the other 65% . My finger wouldn't know a 5.3 from a 4.2 anyway and my shotgunning hasn't done a thing for my bench work .
In all honesty I don't really think outside of the short reset length that I really gained anything with the trigger change .
The article in full is essentially describing a no parts , adjustable trigger reset stop which properly done with attention to detail and fitting is fine if you have a parts set with deep engagement and poor finish .
I shot the rifle enough to have a wear polish show up on the sear faces and it wasn't square or centered so it wasn't a near perfect trigger . It only had about 35% contact and possibly and oil film for the other 65% . My finger wouldn't know a 5.3 from a 4.2 anyway and my shotgunning hasn't done a thing for my bench work .
In all honesty I don't really think outside of the short reset length that I really gained anything with the trigger change .
The article in full is essentially describing a no parts , adjustable trigger reset stop which properly done with attention to detail and fitting is fine if you have a parts set with deep engagement and poor finish .
Ian
Notorious member
I read part of the article last night and to answer the safety question, it's all over the article. It's safe if done safely. Make sense?
I put a set screw in all my stock ARs to limit engagement and shorten the trigger pull. It helps immensely. It is safe THE WAY I DO IT, which is not pushing the limits. A two-stage Geissele or ALG (Mrs. Geissele) is difficult to impossible to beat....but may still need an engagement stop.
I put a set screw in all my stock ARs to limit engagement and shorten the trigger pull. It helps immensely. It is safe THE WAY I DO IT, which is not pushing the limits. A two-stage Geissele or ALG (Mrs. Geissele) is difficult to impossible to beat....but may still need an engagement stop.
fiver
Well-Known Member
triggers can be super tricky to mess with.
I put a Huber in one of my hunting rifles and dinked with it enough to make it a release trigger.
if you want to see someone have a surprised look on their face let them pull the 2 lb trigger on a 25-06 and hear a click.
nothing else happens,,,,, until they let go of it.
for the AR's I agree on a good 'take up the slack and then pull the trigger',,, trigger.
I'm super happy with the factory triggers on both of the Stag rifles and the Armalite NM-15.
maybe if I had something else [shrug]
after some use I really do like 2 stage triggers and even try to get them on my target shotguns,
that way I can take the tension out right before calling for the bird and i can ride the trigger back through the re-set for the second shot on doubles.
I put a Huber in one of my hunting rifles and dinked with it enough to make it a release trigger.
if you want to see someone have a surprised look on their face let them pull the 2 lb trigger on a 25-06 and hear a click.
nothing else happens,,,,, until they let go of it.
for the AR's I agree on a good 'take up the slack and then pull the trigger',,, trigger.
I'm super happy with the factory triggers on both of the Stag rifles and the Armalite NM-15.
maybe if I had something else [shrug]
after some use I really do like 2 stage triggers and even try to get them on my target shotguns,
that way I can take the tension out right before calling for the bird and i can ride the trigger back through the re-set for the second shot on doubles.
Longone
Active Member
Lock time on an AR is, looooong compared to a bolt gun. So why not put the best trigger in that you can afford? Tinkering with a trigger to try and make it something it isn’t is imho asking for a problem. Too many parts kit guns out there with parts from who knows where, I’m surprised JC Whitney doesn’t sell parts for them.
F
freebullet
Guest
If you gotta ask I'd say probably not however, I didn't see anything that would be inherently dangerous so long as it was done right.
I'd buy the jard for ar15's or anything they make one for. Great trigger, people, customer service, & product. They offer one of the fastest lock times for the cheapest price with the lightest reliable pulls.
I do best with a 2-3lb clean crisp let off, with no pre or overtravel.
Understanding exactly how they operate is the key to making them safe & better. I've become quite adventurous with a few cheap rifles to see what I could do for improvement. Some of them can't be made much better without custom parts.
In taking out pretravel (the distance the trigger moves without moving the sear) you'll find that removing it all can prevent proper reset, make it slam fire, or go full auto. In removing overtravel you can make the gun not fire, slam fire, or go full auto.
If your going to play with a trigger-
1. Don't load live ammo again till it is pointed at a proper berm.
I'd buy the jard for ar15's or anything they make one for. Great trigger, people, customer service, & product. They offer one of the fastest lock times for the cheapest price with the lightest reliable pulls.
I do best with a 2-3lb clean crisp let off, with no pre or overtravel.
Understanding exactly how they operate is the key to making them safe & better. I've become quite adventurous with a few cheap rifles to see what I could do for improvement. Some of them can't be made much better without custom parts.
In taking out pretravel (the distance the trigger moves without moving the sear) you'll find that removing it all can prevent proper reset, make it slam fire, or go full auto. In removing overtravel you can make the gun not fire, slam fire, or go full auto.
If your going to play with a trigger-
1. Don't load live ammo again till it is pointed at a proper berm.
Last edited by a moderator:
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
Reducing the sear engagement on the stock AR trigger can get you
doubles, which can get you arrested. One guy got ten years in prison
for an AR that doubled a couple of times when loaned to a friend.
ATF sometimes gets a wild hare to go after someone on something this
stupid. Don't be that guy.
IME, the Rock River trigger upgrade is low cost, works great and I have
at least 5 installed. It completely relocates the sear and hammer engagement
in a way that makes it safer and far better pull at the same time. Win-win.
Bill
doubles, which can get you arrested. One guy got ten years in prison
for an AR that doubled a couple of times when loaned to a friend.
ATF sometimes gets a wild hare to go after someone on something this
stupid. Don't be that guy.
IME, the Rock River trigger upgrade is low cost, works great and I have
at least 5 installed. It completely relocates the sear and hammer engagement
in a way that makes it safer and far better pull at the same time. Win-win.
Bill
Last edited:
Kevin Stenberg
Well-Known Member
I replaced my milspec trigger with a Rock River. Boy did it make a big difference. No more gritty trigger pull.
