Kohler Courage 22 SV620 Engine question

[RBHarter]

I just went through this sort thing with the F350 I was down to a sick battery or charging issue ........ I went to change in a known good battery and the ground cable clamp broke in 3 pieces . I replaced that and descaled the posts putting it on the charger and went to the other battery . Danged if both clamps on it didn't come apart almost the same way . 2 new copper clamps on the battery with clean cable ends and the main draw battery fully charged the second (formerly main) battery only pulling 4 amps on the 10 amp charger and cranked like a new truck . There wasn't anything wrong with the batteries and the posts and clamps weren't even really bad just broken and not making full contact .

Once long , long ago I had a swaged eye end get oiled and work loose . Either way it was a loose connection .

 

[Uncle Grinch]

My Briggs engine (18 hp) got harder to start as time went on. Carried it to the mower shop and they found the compression relief was the problem,

 

[Bret4207]

Many of the larger small engines have an automatic compression release built into the engine. You don't have to do squat, but it works anyway.

If the battery is bad, has a bad cell(s) or internal ground, you may see attempts to jump it fail altogether. As some else said, bypass the stock battery either by attaching another battery or using GOOD jumper cables. Common 6 gauge discount house jumper cables may not do it, they are more charging cables that jumper cables. Did you by any chance pull the plugs and try spinning it over? If you do stick you finger in the plug holes (I think this is a twin?) and see what the compression feels like. Should be a definite intake and exhaust feeling. If there isn't, look to your push rods. All they are in these is aluminum tubes- they bend, easily! If you get in that far be careful not to drop the push rod or you'll have to dismount the engine and fish it out of the base. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. If you have a valve that's not opening you're going to have just the issue you describe.

FWIW- you can pick up an inexpensive battery load tester at many places, like Harbor Freight. They will tell you if your battery is good, low or bad.

 

[JSH]

Had the same issues with my Kohler.
New battery same problem.
Took the starter off and did pretty much what you did, except loose parts. Still no luck.
Starter just didn’t sound or act right.
New starter problem solved.

Tore the old one apart and looked at it again. Magnet had come unglued and was causing the drag problem.
IF you have room there are two different length starters. Mine had the short on and I put the longer one on it. Way more torque.

If you go a new starter route, make sure it comes with a Bendix. My parts guys list showed two prices, so we got the cheaper one. No Bendix. Put the old one on while I waited on the new one to show up. Cost me $10 more than it should have.

 

[JWFilips]

OK this is an old Thread and another year passes!
Put a new battery in it and a new Starting relay and all was fine until yesterday!
Haven run it in a moth but yesterday I gave it a shot of startedr fluid and it fired right up but I din't have the air filter on the carb so I shut it down
Put the filter together and started it again....again it started righ up but only ran for a minute and the engine stopped with no electrical happening! No Relay click no nothing! My son pulled the main fuse and it was blown so he replaced it Engine started right up! and ran again for one minute and quit with another blown main fuse....
Ok what should I be checking on? With new fuse engine rub=ns fine for a minute and bam!... fuse blows!
Any Ideas what may be happening?

 

[RBHarter]

Stuck starter and or relay ?

 

[JWFilips]

Stuck starter and or relay ?

RB
I know crap about stuff like that ? How would I know ? anyway to test?
I figured it the engine is running for about a minute or so before blowing the fuse the starter is already did it's job (?)

 

[RBHarter]

If the starter doesn't have a clutch type mechanism and they get stuck they CAN (read may or may not) generate . The relay should make an audible click on and off . Disconnect the starter listen for the click pop of the relay during start cycles . If it's starter mounted bench check the starter for function . Bugs and Strapping does them both ways .

Clean and lube try again .

I can't advise on charging as it could be done several ways including a fixed drive on the starter . That allows for both starting and charging . Done with a dual relay .......

 

[Bret4207]

Go through the wiring and see if something is pinched or worn through. Something has to be grounded out good to pop the fuse. Can be internal too. Small mammals have been known to feast on internal wiring. That was how I found out how to research parts for Chinese engines!

 

[fiver]

whatever it is that's popping the fuse should be getting good and hot during the time it's taking.

 

[JWFilips]

whatever it is that's popping the fuse should be getting good and hot during the time it's taking.

And it takes at least a minute before it happens! So it can't be a direct short! It has to be a short that takes place over that minutes time

 

[JWFilips]

OK is It possible for me to Trash the starter Key for a momentary switch Re-wire directly to the starter to eliminate all of those dang safety features?
However what do I need to leave to recharge the battery when the engine is running?
I think I want to rip out all the factory wiring and make a push button start to the engine and not sure how to get the engine to recharge the battery?
There are just too many wires running all over to make sure the start up is safe!!!

 

[fiver]

key/switch to the coil. [maybe needs de-rated to 9 Volts]
push switch to the solenoid.
and a power from the generator/alternator to the battery.

as a quick test you could run power to the coil and use a bump starter button [like 15 bucks at the auto part store] from the battery to the starter.
leave the key off, but you'll have to pull the jump wire [and you take the risk of burning out the coil if you run it too long] to kill the engine.

 

[Brad]

A little birdie sent me the following

Tell jwflips there is likely 1-3 diodes in his kohler wiring harness(usually wrapped in heat shrink). When they go it causes the problem he now has.

 

[Rick]

A little birdie sent me the following

Tell jwflips there is likely 1-3 diodes in his kohler wiring harness(usually wrapped in heat shrink). When they go it causes the problem he now has.

Wow . . . Ian has feathers? Who woulda thunk it.

 

[Brad]

Different birdie. Ian squawks for himself. And how.

 

[Rick]

Oh . . . Well I would still like to see Ian in feathers. A bright red cardinal maybe.

 

[fiver]

I was imagining yellow [splotchy mixed in other colors] feathers and big red feet.

 

[RBHarter]

Ian is more an Ibis or crane kind of guy . A nice vermilion how maybe ?

 

[Ian]

Stork, actually. I don't know diddly about Kohler v-twin wiring.