Kohler Courage 22 SV620 Engine question

[RBHarter]

Lol . Is it different when you've met ?

 

[Brad]

I figured Ian was more like an emu, neither one flies.

 

[Ian]

Big Bird has like two feet on me, and my yellow is rapidly fading to white (I blame the kids for that, they're worth it though). Always listen to little birdies, Jim.

 

[JWFilips]

Dang ,
you guys have a strange way of passing on information ....but I appreciate it!

 

[JWFilips]

So Wondering if the little bird knows if I have to replace these diodes or wire around them?
And what the heck are they doing in the wireing harness?
Man can't any company build a simple lawn tractor that just works?
I'm ready to torch this bugger

 

[Rick]

If it is such a thing causing your problem would most likely need to replace the harness, not diodes (or resistor).

 

[Ian]

John Deere is famous for hiding resistors and diodes in their wiring harnesses. Diodes can be tested and replaced if necessary, simply unsolder/resolver and tape. Use heat sink clamps to avoid cooking the plates.

 

[Bret4207]

As I understand it, a diode is a one way switch that allows electrons to flow in one direction but not the other. I had a diode in a harness that tested 100% good, but I was still frying coils on a B+S Vanguard commercial. I bypassed the diode and the relay it was attached to and ended up with both a key switch for starting and what amounted to a kill switch for stopping. Seems to have solved the problem, but it took me the better part of 3 years to diagnose and figure out.

 

[JWFilips]

OK....... Instead of me testing the entire wire harness & after going over the wiring diagram I realized that the wire coming back to the battery from the regulator / rectifier runs to the fuse then to the battery ( and another wire which I did not trace)
Common sense kicked in and I felt that the Voltage Regulator was sending back too high a a current to the battery tripping the fuse which was the next link in that system before the positive of the battery! I did not see why that would bring down the engine except for the extra little wire on the battery side of the fuse which was not shown in that diagram!
Long story short: $16 new Voltage regulator and new 20 amp fuse and my Troybilt Hose tractor is running like gangbusters... So that got fixed today .....
along with another Troybilt tractor ( A pony) which was given to me by the neighbor who just bought a new John Deere! He said I may like to play with getting that one running... No Click at the start switch!
Heck Pulled that old starter switch out and stuck an new e-bay find in it's place and it started... Worth 12 bucks!
But The oil looks like molasses and the air clear never was replaced and he never greased anything!
But it is a viable little beast ...probably be great for my wife once I give it some maintenance

 

[Bret4207]

You obviously have a better mind when it comes to electronics than many...like me! Good for you for figuring it out. Took me the better part of 2 years to figure my wiring issue out!

 

[JWFilips]

Brett,
Seriously it was the lazy man's choice! After reading how long it took you I figured I would just start playing hunches!

Don't know much about Engine electrical systems at all but I did know if only one wire is going into the fuse and the fuse is between what ever is at the one end; and the positive of the battery ...I just checked continuity of that one wire, and it was attached to the output of the voltage regulator ( thank goodness for color coded wire!)

 

[popper]

Cheapydesigners like to use shunt regulators. When bad they connect electrics to gnd. GM loved them.