Log for posting versions of SL-68 and SL-68B

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Ok I have searched all afternoon But I can't find anyone selling smaller quantities of a 180 melt Wax.
The closest I have come is General Wax and Candle Company & I placed an order but during checkout they advised me to contact their office concerning the product I ordered.
Thought I finally got some!.... however at this time they are only selling in bulk 25/30 lbs slabs
So Barn I will take you up on your offer only if you are sure that you are fully compensated for the product / Shipping /& your time!
Just send me a conversation to let me know how to proceed Thanks
Jim
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Ian, I was thinking tonight and had an "ah ha" moment. Back when TnT was the hot thing I made a large batch with some microwax added.
I tried to find a recipe but haven't had luck, so far. If memory serves me correct it was Ester 100 oil, Ivory, and beeswax. Nothing else. It had some not tack to it and it finger lubed like no other. Flowed great in the Star too, no heat requires.

Seems to me that is a similar lube in ways to SL68, just with a different soap content and oil.
 

Ian

Notorious member
You sent me some, a golf ball sized chunk of it. I just dug it out hoping you'd included a recipe, all that's in the baggie is a note in my handwriting that reads "Brad's Lube". :( Pretty sure it was AC-pro ester 100, Ivory, and beeswax. You told me what it was but it might take me all night to find it in an old PM, not even sure what forum it was on. It's very close to SL-68.2 but more sticky. I shot some of it and it seemed fine, but I didn't test it well in rifles.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I made some with beeswax and microwax and some with just microwax. I have searched all over for a recipe but can't find one. Dang that irritates me.
I know it has the Ester 100 oil, the neon green color is hard to miss.

Thinking on it I would estimate it was close to 50/50 soap/Ester 100 with the addition of 1/3 microwax. Say 2 ounces soap, 2 ounces oil, 2 ounces wax.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I looked through my pm's last night and all my emails going back three years. I dumped about a thousand cb pms last year and it was probably in there. I used to save them all to my computer but gave up. The stuff I have definitely contains beeswax, and is not neon yellow, but beeswax-yellow. Smells like peanut butter.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
OK I just spent at least 1hr or more going over The "Quest for the Ultimate Lube" sticky over there. Thought I narrowed it down between page 135 and 146 ( to no avail) I didn't want to bother anyone here since it was posted "somewhere" but I just cant find the instructions for making the the SL-68 formula. Can someone direct me to the proper post?
Thanks
Jim
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Thank You, Ian. I was trying to find "your" mixing instructions! I guess that is why I was blind sighted.
In the one On CB Forum, JonB was making wax "Art" with crayons:p so I wasn't sure how true to the formulation that was! Couldn't find your mixing info, up to now but I see it on beyond556 That was an interesting thread! And Stupidly I totally forgot to check "here" first!:oops:
Almost feels like the first week I joined CB Forum! ( Insert "Embarrassed emoji" here!)
Truly sorry about that.
Jim
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Don't apologize Jim.
You found it, that is what counts.

Heed the warnings about the heat involved. The stuff gets scary hot.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Brad, Thank You
I'm no stranger to chemical compounding. Did a lot of that in my 17th & 18th Century Gun Building adventures! Always one to get back to the original formulas
In my days i have boiled gallons of pure Linseed oil to compound with Lead Acetate and Calcium Carbonate. That is about the same temp range maybe a bit higher in that .... I know that because the pure lead balls that were the "donors" of the lead acetate ended up as flat slugs in the pot of oil after it cooled! Did a good bit of Heat treating with melted liquified KNO3 also
Aways vigilate but accidents can happen! A good old friend of mine once said to me if you do something long enough ...no matter how good you are at it you will get "bit" someday!...Law of averages!

Crazy guy that I was back in my senior year of high school...my chem prof ..(yes he was a college professor down on his luck) gave me access to the supply lab where there was pure H2SO4 and HNO3
Guess what I made? Well it wasn't cotton candy! Well I must say it wasn't only me My BIL & Best friend aways pulled off some wild stuff! Good thing we didn't do it for "Long Enough"!
Jim
 

Ian

Notorious member
Sorry for the all caps, I wasn't yelling!

JonB's thread on CB has excellent pictures, which really are worth a thousand words. I did a picture series and stuck it in the Extreme Lube thread on CB so you were barking up the right tree searching there, but unfortunately I deleted the pics when I left. Read post #2131 if you're interested in the captions with visual descriptions:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?148746-quot-Extreme-quot-boolit-lube-The-Quest/page54

Those were the instructions for mixing SL-62 or some such, still the same directions though for any of the full-petro versions of "soap lube". I tried to get some good pictures of critical phases of the process so everyone could understand exactly what they needed to look for BEFORE going into the cooking process.

I'm about due to make another batch of soap lube, so I'll re-take the pictures and post them here in their own thread.
 
Last edited:

Ian

Notorious member
SL-68.5 is now spoken for. Same as SL-68.2 but sub 2 ounces Everbilt bowl wax for 2 ounces of the mineral oil. This is a firmer lube.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Bumping this to the top.
I'm thinking if I try a version of the simpler 71 recipe, that I'll reserve SL-71.1
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ian