Making a log scribe
- Thread starter Ian
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Ian
Notorious member
It's used in log cabin building (among many other types of construction) to trace saddle notch cuts so the log being notched will fit the exact countour and height of the log below. When doing a Norwegian "full scribe", the underside of each log is also scribed along both sides of its entire length and relieved for a seamless, chinkless fit.
The spirit levels, scribe point, and marking point must be calibrated against a plumb line and locked in for each trace in order for it to be an accurate transfer of the shape.
The spirit levels, scribe point, and marking point must be calibrated against a plumb line and locked in for each trace in order for it to be an accurate transfer of the shape.
Ian
Notorious member
LOL Walter, I'm just a poor country boy who dreams beyond his means most of the time.
I just went and tried it out, beats the heck out of the compass and guess method I was using before.
See the arcing silver line the metal-marking pen left behind? That's the exact cut-to line when I roll the log over and notch it.
The scribe is set to mark the notch deep enough that it will touch the log below it plus a half-inch more. That way I can scribe and carve a groove in the bottom to fully nest against the lower log at every point from end to end, including the saddles.
Basically you level the top of the log to be scribed, find the biggest gap between it and the log below, add a half inch to it, and set the scribe points that distance and calibrate the levels and points plumb, then scribe that distance on the log to be cut while keeping the scribing tool exactly plumb and level the whole time.
I just went and tried it out, beats the heck out of the compass and guess method I was using before.
See the arcing silver line the metal-marking pen left behind? That's the exact cut-to line when I roll the log over and notch it.
The scribe is set to mark the notch deep enough that it will touch the log below it plus a half-inch more. That way I can scribe and carve a groove in the bottom to fully nest against the lower log at every point from end to end, including the saddles.
Basically you level the top of the log to be scribed, find the biggest gap between it and the log below, add a half inch to it, and set the scribe points that distance and calibrate the levels and points plumb, then scribe that distance on the log to be cut while keeping the scribing tool exactly plumb and level the whole time.
He doesn’t do a few things. He doesn’t do air travel. He doesn’t do Glocks.
He does have a knack for making do with what he has. Ian is a holdover from the days of the pioneers. Make do with what you have, love feee and clear of outside influences, and in general be truly independent.
Ian
Notorious member
Here it is at the end of the saddle notch. Notice the points are spread a little to far to pass through the gap? That's the half inch I added. At this position I would continue to scribe to the left for the length of the logs and do the same on the other side. Then I will roll the log over, cut the saddles, and remove the wood between the narrow marks on the bottom, effectively making a shallow U-shaped groove that matches the contour of the log below.
No chinking required. A gasket would be nice though, maybe a bead of 100% silicone caulk would do since these logs are totally done shrinking and no allowances for green log shrinking and settling need be made.
No chinking required. A gasket would be nice though, maybe a bead of 100% silicone caulk would do since these logs are totally done shrinking and no allowances for green log shrinking and settling need be made.
Ian
Notorious member
There are a few other things I don't do, some quite unfortunate and mostly attributable to being a high-functioning autistic. I appreciate the kind words everyone, and am glad that some of you get a kick out of the unusual things I do.
Cool..... I grew up with scribe in hand. Dang sweet instruments.
Think sheet metal dust collection tubing..... we have to make a 8X8x6 wye. The 6 is coming into the 8 at a "calc'd" degree. Ain't always a 45*..... there are programs that will plot/print the template for the cut profile. The funny part is,a seasoned mechanic can have it laid out a cut/fitted before the programmer gets past the initial,what size tubing.
I'd done paid the dues on "fitting" in high end cabinet world for 30 sumthin years before branching(ha) into some pretty sophisticated DC ( dust collection) systems. I came up with a cpl very innovative solutions to nagging issues within that world,yada yada,whatever. But the basic mechanics of sheet metal layout really tested me. Got several,public domain books from the late 1800's,early 1900's and was positively SLACK JAW at what was "expected" from the apprentice back in the day....
Sheet,it was like somebody injected steroids right into the grey matter...... I was hooked,still am.
Think sheet metal dust collection tubing..... we have to make a 8X8x6 wye. The 6 is coming into the 8 at a "calc'd" degree. Ain't always a 45*..... there are programs that will plot/print the template for the cut profile. The funny part is,a seasoned mechanic can have it laid out a cut/fitted before the programmer gets past the initial,what size tubing.
I'd done paid the dues on "fitting" in high end cabinet world for 30 sumthin years before branching(ha) into some pretty sophisticated DC ( dust collection) systems. I came up with a cpl very innovative solutions to nagging issues within that world,yada yada,whatever. But the basic mechanics of sheet metal layout really tested me. Got several,public domain books from the late 1800's,early 1900's and was positively SLACK JAW at what was "expected" from the apprentice back in the day....
Sheet,it was like somebody injected steroids right into the grey matter...... I was hooked,still am.
The sad part is.... as cad systems basically make it so easy a minimum wage cell phone flunky can knock these parts out. At first blush it's like sure,who wants or needs to know how to do this sheet? So sad..... not only for the craft/S but the notion that self actualization and respect isn't worth the time anymore? And will stop there....
Ian
Notorious member
Bret, so far I've used a chainsaw and #7, 50mm gouge and mallet. The grinder is a bit sketchy on the notches, lots of kickback and splinters, I'm looking into the see-through carbide bristle grinder discs with the big radius on the edge for finish work, but the chisel works fine for now. The three-blade "planer" thing I think will work better for inletting the trough on the bottom side of each log, haven't had a chance to try it there yet.
