Mold lube

burbank.jung

Active Member
I did a quick search and read the Lee instructions for bullet molds. They suggest beeswax or bullet lube. So, I have a stick of what I'm sure is bullet lube. I've just had it around for years. I can just apply this to my pins, hinge, and sprue plate and I'm good to go, yes? What about bullet wrinkles? Any other lube suggestions? I used synthetic oil once.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Why not stick with the synthetic oil? The trick is you want to use very little. Make sure the mold is up to temp and you have lead in the cavities. Put the smallest amount of oil on the end of a Qtip and coat the surfaces. Then use the clean side and rub down all the surfaces. It only takes a very very thin layer to work. Too much oil and it will seep into your cavities.
 

burbank.jung

Active Member
I wasn't sure what to use. I have a 6 cavity Lee mold and it was sticking at the pins and wouldn't like up. I had to tap the handles sometimes to make the mold to line up which is probably a "no-no".
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Synthetic two stroke works well. I use ester 100 AC oil which is vey similar to the two stroke synthetic oil.

Bullet lube doesn’t come near my moulds.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
That advice from Lee is IMHO bad advice unless you like burned on crud. Do what everyone here says and get some synthetic two stroke oil and apply it sparingly. The smallest bottle you can buy will last a lifetime.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
That advice from Lee is IMHO bad advice unless you like burned on crud. Do what everyone here says and get some synthetic two stroke oil and apply it sparingly. The smallest bottle you can buy will last a lifetime.

Absolutely bad advice.

As @Ian says "use almost none." I only put the 2-stroke oil on the alignment pins/recesses and use a q-tip I've waved over the open bottle of oil.

OK, that's a slight exaggeration, but but because it's so easy to use too much, I don't put it on my sprue plates at all any more. Never fails, I get too much. Harder to mess up on the pins and it doesn't make your mould look like the range hood in a greasy-spoon diner.
 
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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
My moulds end up with a brown stain on the top but I just ignore it. I use more than I should most likely but hell, you only live once.
Moulds seem to keep on making good bullets so why change?

But yes, a small bottle will last at least one lifetime, until you spill it.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Use 2 stroke, it is designed to burn without leaving ash. Regular motor oil is likely to be unsatisfactory.

Experience, by many, has shown that 2 stroke synthetic oil works. I have no reason to redesign the wheel.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
i just lubed mine with some anti-seize. [nickle] like 2 hrs. ago
i like it on aluminum molds.
i have a half dozen containers of the copper stuff too, but ain't tried it yet i assume it'd work.

on steel molds i rarely use anything anymore, but i have used bullet lube/bees wax/2 stroke and all sorts of stuff, they all seemed to work as long as i kept it out of the cavities.

i do like 2 stroke on the hinge pins, and anti sieze goes on all of the pins & screws that hold the mold to the handles without fail.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
....i have a half dozen containers of the copper stuff too, but ain't tried it yet i assume it'd work.....
I tried t he Permatex copper and it burned off, even though it's the high-temp stuff. It also caused the steel screws to rust.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
good to know Jeff,,, maybe i won't be tryin it then.
i know the nickle stuff works, i got a couple containers of the [international harvester] aluminum stuff too,,,,,,,,,maybe that needs to go next.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Yep, go out and spend $1.79 for a 2.6 oz bottle of synth 2 cyc oil. That will last you a lifetime.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Can I use synthetic 4 stroke oil since this is what I use to change my car engine oil with?

Highly recommend the two stroke oil. Consider the conditions it's designed to operate in . . . The inside of a running engine and still lubricate. Motor oil not so much plus it will smoke, stink and leave gunk deposited.