Mosin handle broke!

KHornet

Well-Known Member
Had a local welder replace the bolt handle on my 91 Mosin, and
the weld started to come apart. Looking for someone with
experience to cut it off and re weld. Thanks in advance for
those who answer this thread.

Paul
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Would it not be cheaper to just buy another bolt body? Don't know for sure, but there are tons of parts out there.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
My bad! Bolt bodies are five times what 1903 Springfields sell for. Good luck on finding a competent welder.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
A good TIG welder should be able to do this properly. The joint needs to be ground back at about a 45
deg angle to make a place for a series of overlapping, layered weld beads, so that the weld penetration is as deep
as the metal. I'd ask friends if they know someone who is a TIG welder.

I have a friend who I use when it is really important, but I do my own gas welding and an occasional
TIG weld, but I am still learning TIG, and my own TIG welder isn't set up yet. I have practiced on a
friend's unit, the same model as mine.

Bill
 

creosote

Well-Known Member
I could , and would. But there must be someone local with a tig machine.
The hardest part is making sure its in the correct position.
And what bill said.
 
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Rick

Moderator
Staff member
The hardest part is making sure its in the correct position.

Precisely . . . I had an XP-100 bolt handle re-installed and it was off just very slightly causing the firing pin to be struck off center and on an angle. Turned a tack driver into a tent stake.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Actually you need to drill a pilot hole to let the handle sit in. Then weld it. That was how I have done a couple sniper repo bolts. Then tig weld it.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Any reason it has to be TIG'ed? Did the Rooskies use oddball metal?
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
It could probably be gas welded, most steels can. But I think it is generally easier to control and localize the heat with TIG. And I agree 100% with everything Bill said. I am not a great welder but I know folks who are and we all agree that just like machine work, time spent prepping is better than time spent rushing in and screwing things up and having to redo things. Inadequate penetration always makes for weak welds, cleaning and proper prep will help prevent that.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Some kind of torch is the way to go, TiG or Cobra gas tuned to a low-oxygen flame. Wire or rod takes too long to build heat and always has a cold start. With a stick electrode and adequate part surface you can strike the ark slightly off to the edge of the channel to be filled and then push the tip down into the bottom once it's hot and flowing so it burns in all the way, but you have to do that every time you stop and start. Stick also requires a lot of heat and a big puddle to float out all the little bits of shielding material. With TiG, you typically do a root pass with no filler rod, just melt and flow the parts together at the bottom of the vee you make, then clean the oxides off and make one or several more passes with filler rod to build up a fillet.

I personally have done two and have no desire to attempt another. My concern is putting too much heat into the bolt body and always pack the inside with paper towels soaked in water and the outside completely bundled up in water to keep heat from migrating to the important parts of the bolt body. Still it gives me the heebee-jeebees.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
My concern is putting too much heat into the bolt body and always pack the inside with paper towels soaked in water and the outside completely bundled up in water to keep heat from migrating to the important parts of the bolt body. Still it gives me the heebee-jeebees.

That's the prep I was referring to.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I've gas welded Mauser handles and have no desire to try it anymore. I'm surprised some form of wire feed system isn't recommended. Heat was always a no-no on bolts.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I have seen Brownell's Heat Sink Paste used, and it seemed to work ok, but never had it tested at the lugs.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I used Brownells bolt filler threaded rod, and heat paste when I have bent a few.
Mauser bolts. TIG. is super clean, and minimizes the heat.
No scale , inside or out is a huge advantage.
 
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waco

Springfield, Oregon
I work with several very good TiG welders. They are not gun guys and I wouldn't trust them to get everything in the right place.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Your root pass you always use a filler rod. Otherwise it is undercut and will need to be filled even more. Most times when people use no filler they do not have the proper gap for the rods to fill. It actually puts more stress into the part you are welding if you do not leave a gap to fill.

We had welding in out high school. When you finish the class you were a certified welder. You just had to pay to get the stupid papers. You did basic in 9th. 10th you did metal working. 11-12 you were in class for 3 hours each day. We would send welding test in to have x rayed for your finals. Arc, mig, tig. carbon ss, alum. I passed all of them but did not have the $ to pay for the papers. Never stuck with it. But it has helped with the maintenance mechanic jobs I had.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
That's about the age I learned to gas weld. I wish I had learned TIG welding then, too, but at that time
"Heli-Arc" machines (as it was called then) were very expensive, not all that common in pro shops and
non-existent in home welding shops. Now there are fairly affordable TIG welding systems available,
makes it a lot more accessible for the amateur.

Bill