MP & NOE Molds

VZerone

Active Member
NOE HP moulds are a bit too fussy for my tastes. I only own one MP mould, it works okay, but I'm probably not buying any more HP moulds except for my collection accumulation. I just about have my HP drilling setup figured out, and it'll save all sorts of aggravation in the long run.

It's very hard to get a drilled hollow point to perform as well as a cast one in my opinion. Most of them are straight holes or at the most two angled. The only way I've found to make a hollow point besides casting them is to swage them. If you figured a setup that really works more power to you.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
My MP moulds with HP pins get a fair amount by of Ester 100 AC oil applied to the slidey parts. Keeps the pins moving like they should.
 

Misfit

Member
I would like to thank everyone for the valuable information and helping me to make my decision regarding the MP mold blocks. Please see the attached image of the one I chose.
 

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358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
It's very hard to get a drilled hollow point to perform as well as a cast one in my opinion. Most of them are straight holes or at the most two angled. The only way I've found to make a hollow point besides casting them is to swage them. If you figured a setup that really works more power to you.

I'll post an update when I have some results to report. It's pretty similar to Petes setup, but well... different.
 
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freebullet

Guest
Have that in plain base. Works dandy, we use it in 380, 9, 38, & 357
 

Misfit

Member
Well here it is boys! My new MP360-640L Hollow Point mold from MP. Ordered on the 9th and delivered to my home today the 20th. Thank you for all of the suggestions and feed back. The will be more pictures to follow once I start casting some of these beauties!MP.jpgMP.jpg
 

Glen

Moderator
Staff member
Both MP and NOE make excellent moulds. For HPs, I prefer the MP moulds over NOE. The NOE HP system works OK, it's just a little slower getting all the HP pins back in their channels for the next pour. For the Cramer-style HP moulds (like MP), you just close the mould and you're ready to pour.
 

USSR

Finger Lakes Region of NY
Well here it is boys! My new MP360-640L Hollow Point mold from MP. Ordered on the 9th and delivered to my home today the 20th. Thank you for all of the suggestions and feed back. The will be more pictures to follow once I start casting some of these beauties!View attachment 5436View attachment 5436

Very nice, Misfit. I've got Miha's 359-640 mould that he ran several years ago. He's in the process of creating a couple more of his works of art in .45 caliber for me as we speak.

Don
 

Misfit

Member
First casting. Only made around 50 for testing purposes. Didn't water quench to keep them soft.
 

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dromia

Active Member
Just to put the other side. I prefer NOE's removable guide moulds for hollow points rather than MP's Cramer style, I have just never managed to get the Cramer pins to slide smoothly for any length of time despite polishing and lubricating binding always comes back. I am a fan of MP moulds and have a dozen or so in my collection, I would have more if he did more rifle designs. I love his Ness safety bullet mould but oh so wish it was a removable guide rather than a cramer. I suppose at the end of the day it is about horses for coures rather than absolutes, some people get on better with one type and other people get on better with others. Regardless of preference we should be grateful that we live in a time when we have such quality mould makers as NOE and MP who give us choices which means more people are likely to get that which suits them.
 
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freebullet

Guest
I had trouble with Miha's cramers at first. Then I found a tip that made those issues go away.

Don't screw the pins in tight. Leave them screwed out a turn or two, problem solved.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Don't screw the pins in tight. Leave them screwed out a turn or two, problem solved.

Yep, absolutely, that's the secret. The tolerances are so tight there is no forgiveness for a pin even slightly off from the hole and any threads will have a bit of slop no matter how well made. Don't tighten it, allow it to self center itself and all is good in the world. :)
 

dromia

Active Member
Thanks for the advice, I have been there as well but unfortunately to no avail.

I am not totally bereft of technical ability but there are the few things that for the life of me I cannot get to work. Lee's Classic Turret safety prime is one thing I have never got to work at all despite fruitless hours reading, watching and tweaking. Cramer moulds are another thing that don't work satisfactorily for me but I can thole their issues enough to still cast bullets with them it is just a bit of a struggle.
 

dromia

Active Member
Just checking that by loosening the screws we are talking about the same thing. I understand that to be loosening off the guide rods that screw into the pins?

Or is there another fix you are suggesting that I am missing?
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Just checking that by loosening the screws we are talking about the same thing. I understand that to be loosening off the guide rods that screw into the pins?

Or is there another fix you are suggesting that I am missing?

Yes, the guide rods that go through the blocks and screw into the pins. With just very minor slop in the threads when tightened they pull the pins very slightly to one side. The holes in the block are so precise spot on that the guide rods will bind. By leaving them slightly loose they will self center and slide easily. Keep a light film of oil on them, I use the same 2 cycle oil as I use on the sprue plate.