JWFilips
Well-Known Member
I would like to share my findings about using PC coated cast bullets to the forum. By no means am I a cast bullet expert but I do know how to conduct a good accurate comparison by extensive testing and keeping accurate notes.
This adventure in to the world of "PC" started 6 months ago due to the fact that one of my problem rifles ( one I really like to shoot) a 1916 Spanish Mauser with a very worn and over blown bore, was giving me fits using traditional methods: Either I scrap it or pursue unconventional methods to get it to shoot well.
I first started out using Harbor Freight ( Epoxy type ) Red PC powder. In the typical shake and bake process. The results I got the first time out were very promising however the coating was not as even as I would like it , so I switched to using Smoke's ( CB forum) powder.
Now as soon as I made this switch I knew I would have to make an "investment" in "Powder coating" to continue with my tests. Smokes powders are Cross Linked Polyesters so I now had to buy a Small counter top convection oven and run it outside to safely bake the bullets....since the fumes from the baking process with these type powders are not safe to inhale. On e-bay I found a number of these convection ovens but I chose a new one @ $36 & free shipping.
My first batch of Smoke's Powder was a small sample of "Gray" Right off the bat the powder adhered better and after baking the coating was very even at approx. 0.001' thick The first test with this coating was very good...but what I needed was a new bullet mould since the Lee 285-130 wasn't very accurate in this rifle. I was fortunate to buy a nice old mould here from one of the members here...pretty rare but it turned out to be the winner...it is listed as the Lyman 287-221 a long 179 grain loverine style bullet.
With this bullet and Smoke's powder sample, I started getting ragged hole groups at 50 yds with receiver sights! I then bought a pound of his clear PC powder because I'm still, at heart, a traditionalist and did not like "Colored" cast bullets.! The clear gave me the color of the alloy albeit with a high gloss!
Ok This is one powder I really would recommend! Very easy to shake & bake and the coating flows very well at 20 minutes at 400 degrees cure time. I have also purchased a pound of Eastwood "Ford Blue" recently ...not for the color but for the slightly thicker coating it produces ( good for undersized moulds) Normal PC coating gains you 0.002" in one coat but this Eastwood powder gives you about 0.003" gain ( i just don't like those bright colors!)
I find I either like to size my cast bullet first ( my moulds drop a bit large ) then PC and if necessary Size after PC coating! (One Note you will be shooting less fat bullets with PC as opposed to traditional lube!) I had to get some smaller sizing dies !
The real point of this article is this: If it worked this well for the worn Mauser ...how would it do in other modern rifles?
Well this is where I was more than impressed!
To date; over the past 6 months I have shot my .358 Win, my 8MM GEW98 Mauser, My 30-30 Bolt action ( Sav 340) and Lever action ( Marlin 336) rifles, and my .223 Remington Sportsman 78 using PC coated bullets....comparing these new results with years of extensive record keeping of shooting traditional lubed bullets!
Hands Down ....The PC coated bullets out performed traditional Lubed bullets in every case!
Most rifles I do not clean after shooting, because leading is non existent! Groups seldom show any fliers if I do my part. I have not had any funky PC build up like I have read about, as of yet.
The old worn 1916 Mauser gets cleaned after about 200 rounds & yes I do pull lead flakes from it 's sand paper bore but it still shoots great!
So in a nut shell ;
Groups are tighter with few if any fliers. Cleaning is not a necessity on most rifles especially if you want first shot accuracy each time out.
The only rifle I have that has not been tested yet is my Ruger 77V .243 Win And the only reason that it has not is I have shot the others extensively and have not had the time to get to it....but I will.
Now to qualify the above info please note:
I have shot twice a week testing PC coating since Jan 1st 2018
I shoot at 50 yds with scopes and /or receiver sights.
Most of my loads are in the 1100 fps range. ...but I have gone as high a 1800 fps and as low as 700 fps during the testing.
Also for some reason gas checked bullets without the checks are more accurate then the identical bullet in plain base. (?)
I just thought I would make this information available to anyone that may be interested.
I still believe a new comer to cast bullet shooting should go the traditional lube route first! You will learn far more of the "Art & Science of Cast Bullets" that way!
I feel PC bullets are just a new road for those that have learned the ropes , so to speak!
Jim
This adventure in to the world of "PC" started 6 months ago due to the fact that one of my problem rifles ( one I really like to shoot) a 1916 Spanish Mauser with a very worn and over blown bore, was giving me fits using traditional methods: Either I scrap it or pursue unconventional methods to get it to shoot well.
I first started out using Harbor Freight ( Epoxy type ) Red PC powder. In the typical shake and bake process. The results I got the first time out were very promising however the coating was not as even as I would like it , so I switched to using Smoke's ( CB forum) powder.
Now as soon as I made this switch I knew I would have to make an "investment" in "Powder coating" to continue with my tests. Smokes powders are Cross Linked Polyesters so I now had to buy a Small counter top convection oven and run it outside to safely bake the bullets....since the fumes from the baking process with these type powders are not safe to inhale. On e-bay I found a number of these convection ovens but I chose a new one @ $36 & free shipping.
My first batch of Smoke's Powder was a small sample of "Gray" Right off the bat the powder adhered better and after baking the coating was very even at approx. 0.001' thick The first test with this coating was very good...but what I needed was a new bullet mould since the Lee 285-130 wasn't very accurate in this rifle. I was fortunate to buy a nice old mould here from one of the members here...pretty rare but it turned out to be the winner...it is listed as the Lyman 287-221 a long 179 grain loverine style bullet.
With this bullet and Smoke's powder sample, I started getting ragged hole groups at 50 yds with receiver sights! I then bought a pound of his clear PC powder because I'm still, at heart, a traditionalist and did not like "Colored" cast bullets.! The clear gave me the color of the alloy albeit with a high gloss!
Ok This is one powder I really would recommend! Very easy to shake & bake and the coating flows very well at 20 minutes at 400 degrees cure time. I have also purchased a pound of Eastwood "Ford Blue" recently ...not for the color but for the slightly thicker coating it produces ( good for undersized moulds) Normal PC coating gains you 0.002" in one coat but this Eastwood powder gives you about 0.003" gain ( i just don't like those bright colors!)
I find I either like to size my cast bullet first ( my moulds drop a bit large ) then PC and if necessary Size after PC coating! (One Note you will be shooting less fat bullets with PC as opposed to traditional lube!) I had to get some smaller sizing dies !
The real point of this article is this: If it worked this well for the worn Mauser ...how would it do in other modern rifles?
Well this is where I was more than impressed!
To date; over the past 6 months I have shot my .358 Win, my 8MM GEW98 Mauser, My 30-30 Bolt action ( Sav 340) and Lever action ( Marlin 336) rifles, and my .223 Remington Sportsman 78 using PC coated bullets....comparing these new results with years of extensive record keeping of shooting traditional lubed bullets!
Hands Down ....The PC coated bullets out performed traditional Lubed bullets in every case!
Most rifles I do not clean after shooting, because leading is non existent! Groups seldom show any fliers if I do my part. I have not had any funky PC build up like I have read about, as of yet.
The old worn 1916 Mauser gets cleaned after about 200 rounds & yes I do pull lead flakes from it 's sand paper bore but it still shoots great!
So in a nut shell ;
Groups are tighter with few if any fliers. Cleaning is not a necessity on most rifles especially if you want first shot accuracy each time out.
The only rifle I have that has not been tested yet is my Ruger 77V .243 Win And the only reason that it has not is I have shot the others extensively and have not had the time to get to it....but I will.
Now to qualify the above info please note:
I have shot twice a week testing PC coating since Jan 1st 2018
I shoot at 50 yds with scopes and /or receiver sights.
Most of my loads are in the 1100 fps range. ...but I have gone as high a 1800 fps and as low as 700 fps during the testing.
Also for some reason gas checked bullets without the checks are more accurate then the identical bullet in plain base. (?)
I just thought I would make this information available to anyone that may be interested.
I still believe a new comer to cast bullet shooting should go the traditional lube route first! You will learn far more of the "Art & Science of Cast Bullets" that way!
I feel PC bullets are just a new road for those that have learned the ropes , so to speak!
Jim
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