My try at HV cast

VZerone

Active Member
Waco you ought give RL19 a try, it's very close to 4831. The 4831 today isn't the same good 4831 it use to be. I believe Ian would say that too.
 

gman

Well-Known Member
In the RL series of powders which are the newer ones that are supposed to be less temperature sensitive? I can’t recall and haven’t looked it up.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
goin off the top of my head.
16-17-33 are the newest ones.
I have never had an issue with 19 but I don't think I have shot it below about 15-20 or so.
and I'm not too sure 17 is really not temp sensitive.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
With straight ht'd ww, i've shot them on the 2nd day after ht and they shot just as good as waiting 5 days to a week. I "think" mine are 22 bhn in 2 days and for sure they are 27 bhn in 3 to 5 days.

I know right now your being careful not to change anything while working up accuracy loads.
Just saying after you get the serious stuff done try them at 2 days sometime just to see.
If it works for you just file it away under stuff to know for one day in the future when you may be on limited time to cast load and shoot lol.

I studied Rick’s article last night and he only problem I could see with me shooting them that quick is lack of antimony in my 50/50 alloy.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
So I got my first 20 bullets ready for some testing. 20 pieces of brass as well. The scales I have are part of my RCBS Charge Master 1500
They are only accurate to +/- .01gr to my knowledge. This being said, here is what I did.

My bullets weigh 166.7-166.8gr. These are sized, checked and lubed.

I'm going to use once fired PPU .308 brass. This was new factory stuff shot in my bosses Sako TRG-42
I cleaned, decapped, annealed, FL sized, trimmed, chamfered, deburred, squared primer pockets, and cleaned up flash holes.

All brass weighs between 178.5-180.7gr. I'll stick with CCI 200's for now. Like I said, I'll adjust the 4831 load and try RX15 as well.

Not sure when I'll get out again....lots of rain in the forecast. I'll post some pics below.
 

gman

Well-Known Member
I’ve heat treated 50/50 and the way I work ends giving them 10-12 days to age and they are good to go.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
These bullets were sized to .310" and lubed with Lar's 2500+ and two light coats of BLL.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I may transition over to Alliant powder I am kind of a powder snob and tend to stick with alliant powder when I can.
The pound of IMR 4350 I have I’m pretty sure it about 10 years old and is about empty so I’m going to have to decide whether to buy more or change over.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
Looks good Waco can’t wait to see your results. I figure I’m going to have to try annealing for the first time soon.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
Ian told me H414 is the same as win 760. I plan to do some more testing with win 760. I have to fire form some brass and plan to use it with the 311041. If anything good comes out of it I’ll post my results.
 

35 shooter

Well-Known Member
I've been told that too, but it worked out different in a 7/08 for me. 760 was great, but h414 beat it...that was back in my jacketed days though.
When poured out side by side on a napkin, 760 looked half a shade darker than 414....different coatings?

760 was a no go in my particular .308 with cast, but i still want to try 414 in it someday.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The only difference between a plastic bottle of WW760 and one of H-414 today is the print on the label.

H414 was my go-to powder in two different heavy-barrel rifles that both rejected H4350 and the bullet/alloy combination I wanted to use. It is also THE powder for my military Swedish Mausers with the heavy, round-nose Sierra bullets. I have not tried H414 in a sporter-barreled .308, and have heard similar ho-hum results from several people regarding that. It's just something to try if you run out of other options.

IMR 4831 is a weird duck, or used to be. It doesn't always do what you think it will do, particularly in smaller cases. Sometimes it's good, sometimes not so much. Ladder tests with it can prove interesting, for sure. Nothing dangerous (as far as I know), just odd stuff like it falling off in the middle of a workup, just to pick up where it should be half a grain later, and be wanting more and closing up groups right about the time you run out of case capacity.

Nowdays I mix odds and ends of 4831 together and use it for a couple of things where I just scoop the case full of it and shake out enough to seat a bullet.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
that's about how I treat 414 with J-loads in the 308, with .005 neck tension.
if I tried 414 with cast I would be working with different primers as part of the process.
I wish I could get AA-2700 locally like I used to it is a good looking prospect also it works very well in the 7.7 jap and the 300 savage.

some of the ball powders need a good start to get going, weight, and neck tension really play a big part in the outcome.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
Fiver sent some bullet samples and I believe they are gonna be a better fit but only shooting will tell.
I put them in my hornady modified case to find the max OAL and tried to see where they were making contact.

Here’s the xcb the rifling looks to hit it about a 1/8” below the ogive.56C5FA1A-0144-4741-BCDE-2E84E80B534F.jpeg
Here’s the 165A. The .309” area I sized down looks to hit right in the ball seat before the rifling.A65C5BAA-A2DA-4C4D-8BE8-255FEC2134ED.jpeg
And here’s the 311041 I cast. It also hits the ball seat area sized .309 on the front band. Didn’t find any sign of rifling marks on nose.500D89EE-5DA7-4468-A590-6ADDC161E867.jpeg
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
that big drive band on the 165 is supposed to snuggle up in the ball seat area with a little scuff mark on the front edge.
it helps pull everything up and straight.
anyway it's easy to see the difference between a saami 308 throat [165a] and the 0-6 Saami throat [XCB] but that they ain't all that far apart.