New Lyman Handles

Walks

Well-Known Member
I've always had to either glue the wood to my Bullet mold handles. Or pin them in place, time permitting. Can't remember a set of any manufacturers handles that didn't have the wood slip off the "fingers" at the worst possible moment. Usually when the Pot is full, the melt is just right and the molds are dropping perfect bullets like rain.

A friend gifted me two sets of the New Lyman 4cav mold (Saeco style) handles. I was thrilled to see that each one was pinned twice in each wood handle.

Screwed them on to a pair of 4cav Lyman molds and set to work. A good casting session, a bit strange at first, kept trying to swing the handle all the way open for the first 5-6 casts. But quickly became productive. Cast 1000+ SWC's in good time.

But imagine my surprise when I removed the handles from the molds and 3 of the "pins" were missing. 4 pins per handle, 8 total and 3 were just gone.

Checked the remaining pins, was able to pull 2 out with my fingernails. Set roll pins into all the pin holes. Since then I have purchased another set of 4cav Handles and a set of 2cav. Done the same with them.

Just going to do it to every single set of handles I have.
 
Last edited:

fiver

Well-Known Member
yep.
I just pull new ones apart and run the grinder over the metal before shoving a bunch of 2 part hard setting epoxy putty in there.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
I've tried both pinning and glueing. Gluing has never failed and (a) it doesn't break drill bits, (b) it doesn't wallow a hole out in the wood when it skids upon hitting metal, and (c) it doesn't weaken the handle metal by putting a hole in a critical spot. Just my reasoning, YMMV
 

Walks

Well-Known Member
Thanks Guys.
Have JB Weld on hand, don't know why I switched to Gorilla Glue. Just easier I guess. RTV Sealant I've seen but never tried. Will try now.

I just wonder if I should pull off the handles from the handle fingers that Haven't failed yet ?
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
And the glue doesn’t lead to a hot spot on the handle. Touching one of those pins while casting demonstrates how well iron conducts heat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ian

Walks

Well-Known Member
Since I cast with gloves, I don't find the heat from the pins to be a problem.
But you never know, some times I gotta take a glove off.

And It's been so long since I burned myself, I'm probably due.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
JB Weld also has an offering that is supposed to withstand high heat. That said, I too am using red RTV. I didn't expect it to work so well, but it does.
 

Ian

Notorious member
High heat JB Weld is basically water glass with bentonite added, think "muffler putty". The Ultra Copper RTV silicone is good to well over 1000⁰F and hasn't failed me yet.
 

Rally

NC Minnesota
I use the brown Gorilla glue, the clear stuff is a joke. Just tried the clear on a new product and I can twist them off in 48 hours. The original will even fill the cracks in broken handles. I had to trim the excess off once it has expanded and dried. I use the brown on two products I make as a bonding/ filler between fiberglass and steel on my drowning rods. It even expands through minor cracks in a poor weld.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Regular JB will hold up fine. Its not THAT hot in the grips!!

I have a slight EGR leak in one ol GMC I have. Mech wants 400$ to fix it. Im more than half deaf and cant hear it. But I can feel it. I fillit with JB weld about four times a year... So it will take casting handles heat!!

I like the rtv suggestion too!!

YES, YES, on the grooves too!! I have been buying the LEE handles, :embarrassed: and thats what I do. Remove handles, using a sharp corner on 8” bench mounted grinding stone, just a couple seconds on each edge, so 8 each handle. Maybe 1/16” deep, then JB slathered on. Slip grip back on and stand up on the bench all day or over nite DONE!!

CW