I make Gunny's paste for the milsurp stocks... equal turp, beeswax, and linseed oil. Yup... not sure how that linseed oil would work as a lube!!
No More Johnson's Paste Wax
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Pretty much the same stuff in the Minwax version, but Minwax is harder and I prefer it for furniture and other wood-working projects. I'd venture a guess that it would also suit me better in tumble lube, because I prefer it to require heating to make it runny, rather than it start runny. Dries harder, drier, faster that way.
If this discontinuation is by result of regulatory folly, then the alternates will go away too. If it's just a SCJ thing, maybe the alternates will be available, but I'd bet they all go away because of the VOC content.
I still wax furniture that I make. Not much of a market supporter in that I'm still working out of a 30yo can though.
In the Army, we used TONS of JPW on the floors - "sweep, mop-n-buff" EVERY morning, EVERY floor, except the tile floors in the latrines. The best applicator was a lone wool-blend, issue sock.
Probably did more for character-building and discipline that the floors. I still remember having to knock heads together each time I saw a flaming can of JPW sitting unattended in the middle of a hallway floor. Someone would light it to make it easier to POUR on the floor, get distracted by cartoons or soap operas and forget they'd set it on fire.
The Infantry draws a..... "creatively adventuresome" crowd.
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smokeywolf
Well-Known Member
Has anybody here used or incorporated the paraffin and microcrystalline wax used on Babybel cheese, in a bullet lube recipe? Found a gallon ziploc bag in the basement full of Babybel cheese wax that I had Mom and the kids save for me about 10 years ago. Was going to explore the possibility of incorporating that into a lube recipe.
todd
Well-Known Member
Probably did more for character-building and discipline that the floors. I still remember having to knock heads together each time I saw a flaming can of JPW sitting unattended in the middle of a hallway floor. Someone would light it to make it easier to POUR on the floor, get distracted by cartoons or soap operas and forget they'd set it on fire.
The Infantry draws a..... "creatively adventuresome" crowd.
i can still remember using a lighter and Kiwi black boot polish!!!!!!!! the Army still did the sweep, mop and buff every day in the '90s too. the Engineers had one (whistles uncomfortably) had one too.
462
California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Yep, Kiwi black shoe polish, spit, a cotton rag, and Mop and Glow floor wax got my boots shiny enough for the sergeant to wiggle his fingers, from waist height, and see their reflections. Lighter fluid and a Zippo removed it all, when it cracked, and the process started again.
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
You had WOOD floors? Everything we had was industrial tile, not the ceramic stuff, the linoleum type. If it was waxed, it was a liquid goop out of a grey 5 gallon bucket. Most never got waxed, just mopped over and over and over.Pretty much the same stuff in the Minwax version, but Minwax is harder and I prefer it for furniture and other wood-working projects. I'd venture a guess that it would also suit me better in tumble lube, because I prefer it to require heating to make it runny, rather than it start runny. Dries harder, drier, faster that way.
If this discontinuation is by result of regulatory folly, then the alternates will go away too. If it's just a SCJ thing, maybe the alternates will be available, but I'd bet they all go away because of the VOC content.
I still wax furniture that I make. Not much of a market supporter in that I'm still working out of a 30yo can though.
In the Army, we used TONS of JPW on the floors - "sweep, mop-n-buff" EVERY morning, EVERY floor, except the tile floors in the latrines. The best applicator was a lone wool-blend, issue sock.
Probably did more for character-building and discipline that the floors. I still remember having to knock heads together each time I saw a flaming can of JPW sitting unattended in the middle of a hallway floor. Someone would light it to make it easier to POUR on the floor, get distracted by cartoons or soap operas and forget they'd set it on fire.
The Infantry draws a..... "creatively adventuresome" crowd.
Going to give it a try soon!!!
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
I did that with boot polish too. I think almost all of us did that though.Pretty much the same stuff in the Minwax version, but Minwax is harder and I prefer it for furniture and other wood-working projects. I'd venture a guess that it would also suit me better in tumble lube, because I prefer it to require heating to make it runny, rather than it start runny. Dries harder, drier, faster that way.
If this discontinuation is by result of regulatory folly, then the alternates will go away too. If it's just a SCJ thing, maybe the alternates will be available, but I'd bet they all go away because of the VOC content.
I still wax furniture that I make. Not much of a market supporter in that I'm still working out of a 30yo can though.
In the Army, we used TONS of JPW on the floors - "sweep, mop-n-buff" EVERY morning, EVERY floor, except the tile floors in the latrines. The best applicator was a lone wool-blend, issue sock.
Probably did more for character-building and discipline that the floors. I still remember having to knock heads together each time I saw a flaming can of JPW sitting unattended in the middle of a hallway floor. Someone would light it to make it easier to POUR on the floor, get distracted by cartoons or soap operas and forget they'd set it on fire.
The Infantry draws a..... "creatively adventuresome" crowd.
No.
Well, in some OLD barracks, yes, but in the modern buildings, we had "tile" floors. Not ceramic tile, like in the latrines, but the 12" squares made of who knows what.
Had to strip it once in a while too - plenty to keep knuckleheads busy.
Almost all car waxes contain abrasives to remove dirt and oxidation of the old paint. I tried one once, filling the lube grooves of some bullets; there was no visible damage to the bore but I only did a few hundred rounds.
oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
guess I am lucky... still have 4-5 cans of the liquid, and at least one partial can of paste. Have to stop by the local box store tomo and see if I can score another can or two of the paste
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Did Basic and AIT at Fort Polk, LA, aka Camp Polk. Some of the barracks were WW1 with pine floors that had to be polished. The WW2 barracks, had 4X4 squares of plywood (?) with reddish linoleum on top. All I know is that the DDT to keep the bugs down made keeping a "strike" floor impossible since they sprayed every day.
Spindrift
Well-Known Member
Concerning the Babybel wax wrapping, I actually have some in my bullet lube- but only a minor component (it has lots of components). My thought was, it could make the lube more "grippy". The lube works very well for me, but it might work just as well without the cheese wrapping, I don't know.
This is how I make it
artfulbullet.com
This is how I make it
Made some lube today
Needed some more lube, to get a new pan going for my .44 bullets. I have had good results with a lube I made, mixing equal parts simple lube, Glens black and 666+1 lube. The improvements in accuracy I saw, might be attributable to the lube, but can just as well be due to improvements in...
artfulbullet.com
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Tried the melted polish. I didn't see any miracle from it. I did/do still have on e horse hair shoe brush that was just better than all the others at leveling out the polish so you could get start on a good spit shine. That was thing with polishing leather, you had to fill the depressions to get a mirror surface.
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Okay, but you were using a paste wax meant for wood on a tile floor? Never heard of that. The Army does things in an odd way anyhow.
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Rick H
Well-Known Member
Display boots for guard mounts.......LOL.
1: Wear new boots long enough to establish needed creases.
2: Strip the boot to bare leather, sand with 400 grit
3: Reinforce with Ambroid glue paying particular attention to toes and heels
4: Re-sand boots
5: Re-dye the boots
6: Polish with Kiwi and water on cotton balls
7: Head to the NCO club for a beer, while shaking your head and laughing at yourself for being such a boob to go through all that BS just to be the Command Sgt. Major's Driver for a day.
1: Wear new boots long enough to establish needed creases.
2: Strip the boot to bare leather, sand with 400 grit
3: Reinforce with Ambroid glue paying particular attention to toes and heels
4: Re-sand boots
5: Re-dye the boots
6: Polish with Kiwi and water on cotton balls
7: Head to the NCO club for a beer, while shaking your head and laughing at yourself for being such a boob to go through all that BS just to be the Command Sgt. Major's Driver for a day.
quicksylver
Well-Known Member
me being a cabinet maker,probably 50-75% of the furniture in my house I made, stained and finished with JPW, I still polish them with JPW, my milsurps also get the wax treatment then CLP. Ihave about six cans laying around, never used it for lube, I also have about six cans of their LPW, if it wasn't for shipping restrictions I would share them.
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waco
Springfield, Oregon
You can get it on Amazon for around $60 for a 16oz can........