Pound casting a plastic pistol

[Mitty38]

Any body ever pound cast a G 19, or varient.
Do you think it would hurt it?
Should I vary the procedure any?
Just seams I could get better measurements on my build, with the tools I have.
Any tips like maybe pound cast with the slide off some how?
Would like to do it, to get an Idea of where to start for my cast load, since the G19 ish aftermarket barrels are known to vary greatly especially in chamber measurements. Save me some work in the load development.
Hoping someone has been there before me.

 

[Dusty Bannister]

It would seem to me that if the barrel is dismounted you would only need to proceed with the pound casting with a junk case in the chamber. You would need a smooth flat steel or aluminum surface to maintain the case in proper relationship to the barrel hood and not beat on the barrel at any time. You might also be able to perform this in an arbor press and not hammer on anything at all. All you are doing when pound casting is pressing soft lead into the case to expand the case and lead to completely fill the chamber and throat area.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

People use terms differently, What do you mean by "pound cast"?

 

[Dusty Bannister]

Article 2: How I Make Pound Casts

Disclaimer: The following information is the product of my own meandering experience and includes a few original ideas and concepts of my own and some that others have been kind to share with me, and is always subject to change as I learn more. It is in no way intended to be the last word, or...

www.artfulbullet.com

This is the only definition of a "Pound Cast" that I am aware of. Anything else is chamber casting.

 

[Mitty38]

Pound casting it just that to me pounding a chunk of lead down a barrel into a shell half full of lead already to get an impression of the chamber and the first bit of the barrel.
From article 2 I did an 06 so ye.

I think you have a point. Since 9mm spaces on the case mouth, it should be just a matter of taking out the barrel. Putting a half filled case in the barrel. Then maybe cut a jig to seat it on, fit around the locking lug, fasten it securely to.
So I am just pressing against the case and where it seats. Too keep it steady and secure. Then get out the brass or wooden rod lead slug, and plastic hammer.

Sounds better then putting a plastic pistol , barrel up ,on the bench. And pounding on it. Worse this way is I scratch my barrel.

I have an arbor press but would be a little Leary,as to using it. As it multiples a lot of force and I am heavy handed. With my luck I would be the first person ever to bulge a barrel using a pound cast.LOL

 

[Ian]

It has been variously called "upset slug cast", "impact impression", or "pound cast".

There are only two things to care about the chamber on a straight-wall semi-auto: chamber diameter at the front, and throat entrance diameter. The first, after subtracting clearance and case wall thickness, tells you the maximum bullet diameter it will handle. The second, a reference for bullet diameter.

All I do is drop an as-cast bullet into the chamber with the barrel removed, tap it into the throat about halfway with a brass drift, and tap it back out again from the muzzle. Then measure the throat entrance diameter by the witness mark (just in front of the ring of lead peeled back on the slug), subtract half to one thousandth, and size my bullets to that.

 

[Mitty38]

It has been variously called "upset slug cast", "impact impression", or "pound cast".

There are only two things to care about the chamber on a straight-wall semi-auto: chamber diameter at the front, and throat entrance diameter. The first, after subtracting clearance and case wall thickness, tells you the maximum bullet diameter it will handle. The second, a reference for bullet diameter.

All I do is drop an as-cast bullet into the chamber with the barrel removed, tap it into the throat about halfway with a brass drift, and tap it back out again from the muzzle. Then measure the throat entrance diameter by the witness mark (just in front of the ring of lead peeled back on the slug), subtract half to one thousandth, and size my bullets to that.

That sounds a bit easier. Then if I am worked about overall all length I could just chamber an un crimped cartridge. That should give me a pretty good picture.

 

[Mitty38]

It has been variously called "upset slug cast", "impact impression", or "pound cast".

There are only two things to care about the chamber on a straight-wall semi-auto: chamber diameter at the front, and throat entrance diameter. The first, after subtracting clearance and case wall thickness, tells you the maximum bullet diameter it will handle. The second, a reference for bullet diameter.

All I do is drop an as-cast bullet into the chamber with the barrel removed, tap it into the throat about halfway with a brass drift, and tap it back out again from the muzzle. Then measure the throat entrance diameter by the witness mark (just in front of the ring of lead peeled back on the slug), subtract half to one thousandth, and size my bullets to that.

Came up with .358 on the throat entrance. And .356 on the rifling in the barrel.

I kinda lucked out on this, I had sized all my 125 grain at .356. Then I did the measurements after. By mixing clear with maroon on the powder coat I was able to get them at . 357 to .3579ish. So thinking about opening up my sizer a bit to get them all consistancy .357. But it is 9mm, so think me having some of them at less then a .001thicker powder coat is not going to make that much difference.

 

[fiver]

shoot some... move on.

when there is a problem then fix it because it will point right to what the problem is.