Powder scale suggestions.

Ian

Notorious member
I had a Lee, it came with a full reloading and press kit I got on sale for the parts. As I recall it wasn't damoed and used a razor blade for a fulcrum. The frustration was it would tip all the way one way or the other unless your charge was within half a grain or so and I couldn't get a feel for whether the charge was 20 grains light or one grain light and that made adjusting my Uniflow frustrating. After giving it a try I went right back to my 5-0-5 and gave the Lee to my uncle in a kit I put together for him to load his .45 Colts.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
I have 10-10 and Dial-a-grain double beam scales. Currently, I use a RCBS digital, Older scales are a backup. One piece that is basic here is a RCBS weight set to verify scales. I enjoy the digital read out. One kind of scales I find very difficult to use are those adjusted by little metal tabs. The low end scales are an example.

Added: In a jam I have used a rifle match bullet to verify a scale. It beats nothing by a good margin.
 
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Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Almost exclusively use the RCBS Chargemaster. Early model. Probably, been using it for the last twenty years. Only issue I had was the charging adaptor went south. Replaced it with one with the same specifications, I found on Amazon for less than eight bucks.

IIRC, the Chargmaster has a memory capable of programing 30 loads. Mine is full. Whenever I recall the load, I always check the first dispensed against a RCBS 10-10 scale. That scale came in a reloading kit, along with a JR press and other assorted tools necessary for a newbie to reload. In the mid 70's that kit was less than a C-note.

Just came back from the reloading shop. Checked the model of the RCBS beam scale...........it's a 5-10 model. Has the adjusting screw for 1/10 grain increments, like the 10-10.
 
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Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Got the scale and drop from @Ian today.
From my research the scales is a 70's Lyman D7 Made by Ohaus.
Very impressed with dampening system. Using steel, magnets and copper placed just right to dampen with a magnetic field. WoW, what have I been missing!
Needs cleaned up a bit. Working on that today some, cleaning. Cleaned up and polished the bearings and blade bar.
Getting the base ready to paint.
Going to have to mask off the bearings and the graduation strip just cannot see removing those without issues. The bearings are either pressed or glued it, and the graduation strip is riveted. Other then that, got it stripped down. Getting ready to paint.IMG_20220130_213045_2~2.jpg
Won't be able to powder coat as I don't want to damage the lexane?? Bearings with heat.
Maybe Paint it Hammered Gray, or maybe Mazda sunrise red, with a Hardner. I have both laying around. around. Then paint the raised letters with silver, or white.????
A few of you probably know the other name for that color Red. LOL.
Also got the lyman 55 powder drop, but it functions top notch, so leaving it alone
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Those bearings are made of agate.
I wouldn't paint the beam or do anything to it other than clean it. Balance, you know. Have at the base but mask the bearings and don't put any heat to it. Silver Hammerite would look nice.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
The unit had been gingerly treated so the basics were ok, it was just 50ish old . So put the TLC to it.
Well got it cleaned up and managed not to bugger the bearings.
Used some stripper on the paint then bead blasted. Was quite a bit of corosion on the base so soaked it in Zepalume for a while. Then neutralized, dried, filled the real bad pits with "All metal". It was slightly pitted all over, so went with some p592 3m aluminum primer first. Then Finished it off with 3 M's version of Hammerite. (I did body work for pretty much my whole adult life, off and on, so have a few things left over from that.)
Then decided to get out the LEE. Mazda sunrise red. Painted the raised letters. Riveted back on the graduation strip.
Put a little blue where needed. Reassembled.
Then polished everything that had any dirt or corrosion with rouge and a small buffer wheel on the Dremel. Bearings, blades, an and all. Then washed and wiped it down with a soft cotton cloth to remove any residuals. Checked it for function across the scale with my 10, 50 and 100 grain standards. Thing is spot on and works smooth. Once again I am really impressed with the dampening system.
IMG_20220201_151600_0~2.jpg
Only thing I have left to do to it is get some small rubber pads to put on the bottom of none adjustable end. To keep make it a bit more stable and vibration proof.
The Hammerite looks a little spotty in the pick but that is what Hammerite does. Hides a lot of evils with a spotty pot marked texture.
Not my best restoration work, but good enough for me
 
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Ian

Notorious member
WOW! That looks great, Emmett! We're pretty sure that the scale and measure were my wife's father's father's equipment. Her dad only bought RCBS or MEC loading tools. I knew there was lots of corrosion under that paint but didn't have a clue how to neutralize it other than stripping and anodizing which would likely ruin the bearings. Zepalume, will hace to look into that because my original 5-0-5 is doing the same thing, victim of alkaline batteries leaking in the same box it was stored in for a number of years.

I'm glad this went to a good home and got the care it needed.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
The Zep a lume is an acid solution for cleaning semi trailers.
If mixed a little strong and left set on the aluminum for a while, it will actually soak in and etch a bit.https://zep.com/products/zep-a-lume-106335. Use an stiff nylon brush to scrub it with while washing off, with very hot water. Do not use steel or brass brushs. It will cause you issues .A pail will last for years if your not washing semi trailers with it. Think you can still get it by the gallon at truck stops.
I Brushed it on avoiding the bearings and left it sit-soak a while, then neutralized it with a solution of Dawn dishwashing liquid , Baking soda and water. Then washed it real well and let it dry out. I have been using it for other than it's original purpose for years.
P592 primer will actually combine with and seal in small amounts of corosion.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
You'd think that being the parts manager for a truck shop for a number of years and having a Zep account I would have heard of it, but nope. Ringmaster, Linebacker, Reach, T'N'T, all stuff I used to keep on hand for the shop, but we didn't clean much aluminum.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
I made a lot of money cleaning, detailing, Also, doing bodywork and lettering on commercial trucks, and trailers.
Was at least part of my job at most places that had them, to keep the trucks and trailers, looking pretty. I have ran thru hundreds of gallons of that and polyester Resin. With very little PPE. To the point that I am hyper sensitive to that kind of stuff. I can still play with Chem's, just can't use the stuff every day anymore.
 
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Mitty38

Well-Known Member
@Ian I keep forgetting you are in Texas and I am in Ohio. Was giving that some thought. For what it matters.

The type of stuff we haul in and on aluminum trailers, put on the roads around here in the winter and so forth probably is why Zep A Lume is used a lot around here.

Probably not a lot of use for it down there in Texas.
Figure we salt, calcium and put ash on the roads in the winter. We freeze and thaw constantly, so weeks of high humidity, slushy roads.
We haul coal, coke flux, salt, a lot. We have a lot of dirt roads in a lot of areas full of trees so our dirt is slightly pH challenged in those areas.
Every spring around here our vehicles need to be thoroughly cleaned, and inspected if you want them to last. Every fall most truckers and businesses go thru some kind of get ready for winter ritual. Cause to tell the truth a vehicle around here January thru March hardly gets touched unless something is broke or it is so dirty the driver or customer gets dirty getting in it. So three months of torture and neglect every year.
The coal industry used to be booming in this area, especially in our connecting states of PA and WVA
They even used to crush 2nd rate Coal and throw it on back roads for gravel. Coal dust is extremely hard on aluminum.
So kinda makes sense why It is almost a household word around here and you never heard of it.

I am sure you can find a good aluminum etching product in a smaller container.
Pretty much any thing that contains acetic acid, or citric acid will work. You could use vinegar or lemon juice, it's not concentrated so you want to leave it sit a while and go over it a couple times. Zep is just faster and more agressive.
 
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popper

Well-Known Member
Most big cities down here have changed to brine for road treatments during winter so yes we will be the rust belt soon. Brine is soo much cheaper than stuff that works, like cinders or sand!!
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
The salt in itself is not that bad. ....If it can dry out .
Thing is, those areas that get packed with dirt make the problem worse. Dirt or mud holds moisture and loves to absorb other stuff, so when mixed with salt creates ,a corrosion causing poultice. Will eat thru paint, galvanizing, undercoating over time.

Every fall I pressure wash and physically inspect the chassis and frame on all my vehicles for mud and dirt build up. Clean offending areas then spray a little under coat in the corners and offending areas.

Every spring I chassis wash and inspect the scrape off any undercoating that came loose with a plastic scraper. Then wash again.

My vehicles fair pretty well .
 
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