Jim, your bullets on the OP don't look bad but the coating is a little thicker than I would like, but they should shoot fine. Let me start out by saying I'm no expert on the subject of powder coating cast lead bullets as I can only relate is what works for me so here is my 2 cents worth.
The equipment I use is nothing fancy, I use an old convection toaster oven that I have verified running for an hour with an oven thermometer that the temperature stays constant at around 400 degrees. I don't trust the dial on the over as the temp can be off as much as 50 to 75 degrees on the plus side on some ovens. I bake all my bullets pistol and rifle standing up on Reynolds Non-Stick side up aluminum foil for 20 minutes in a 400 degree preheated oven.
When done I either just set them aside and let the bullets air cool or dump them in a bucket of water to quench them. It's important to know that depending on how you cast your bullets the curing process can anneal the lead provided that the alloy you're using responds to water quenching.
1. If you air cool your bullets when cast then PC them an allow them to air cool again the second time there is no change in the as cast BHN of the bullet.
2. If you air cool your bullets when cast then PC them and quench them right out of the toaster oven they will gain a hardness of about 75% over the as cast BHN.
3. If you quench your bullets out of the mold to begin with then PC them and allow them to air cool they will soften around 50% from the original first quenching BHN.
4. If you quench your bullets out of the mold to begin with then PC them and quench them right out of the toaster over a second time you only loose around 15% hardness from the first quenching.
For shake an bake container I use either a clear #5 container like you get at the local Chinese restaurant that soup comes in or a White #5 32 oz. Great Value brand Yogurt container. Pretty sure any #5 container will work, I just have those around at all time, and they have worked well for me.
Small clear tub.
Large Container.
For the beads I put in the container I've used the black air soft BB's, and they work fine but I stumbled across a supple of plastic multicolored pony beads out in storage that you can buy at Walmart in the craft section for around a $1.30 a bag that work just as well if not better and you can rinse them off an reuse them with other colors if you so desire. I usually put the beads about 1" or so deep in the small tube and about 2" deep in the larger container. I add my powder usually around 1/2 tsp and give in a shake for 15 seconds or so to mix everything up before adding bullets, then about 30 seconds worth of shaking in all directions usually give an excellent coat. It also helps if your relative humidity is around 40% or less as it helps create static electricity more efficiently.
Small tub with beads and powder ready to add bullets, notice how the powder clings to the sides of the tub.
When adding bullets I start out with around 50 to 75 bullets depending on size an weight in the containers I use, I don't add anymore powder unless the amount in the contain is not enough to coat the bullet as I like and only then I only add about 1/8 to 1/4 tsp additional powder. Too much powders is as bad as to little as you will get clumping on the bullets and fill in all the groove and have an uneven coating on the bullets.
The powder you use with the shake and bake method can determine what your final outcome will be, not all powders coat as well as others. I like the polymer based pigments as it is ground much finer which is what most commercial powder coat companies sell over the epoxy based pigments you find at Harbor Freight. Solid colors like Ford light and Dark Blue, Med. or Lime Green sold by Eastwood cover really nice as well as Carolina or Signal Blue, Yellow / Green or Super Durable Clear sold by Smoke over on Cast Boolits have all given excellent coverage for me. I get less than desired coverage with colors like Yellow, some lighter Oranges, Purples and any Metallic's so I just don't use those. I like a few colors but if I were to just choose one I would go with the Clear and call it a day as it gives a very fine coverage and flows well to any missed spot unlike some of the lighter colors will and leave splotches.
Bullets in large tube with Black air soft BB's clear coated with Smoke Clear ready to place on tray to cure.
45 ACP in large container with beads using SmoKes Yellow / Green coated ready to cure.
Cured clear coated, sized, checked and ready to load.
Cured, Carolina Blue, sized, checked and ready to load.
My final thoughts on powder coated bullets are that I just treat the coating as a lube that has a couple added benefits such as better long term storage of component bullet in less than ideal conditions that would effect normal form of bullet lube, and little to no smoke at all. Some claim that it eliminates leading which I suppose in some instances it does, but that was never an issue I had to deal with before I started PC'ing bullets. As far as gas checks go I shoot gas check bullets with the check left off all the time in some loads with good accuracy as they are not really needed until a certain velocity / pressure range starts to effect your alloy, once you reach that point at lease in my limited experiences bullets designed to take a gas check will always shoot more accurately with the check installed than not.