Range Report

fiver

Well-Known Member
yeah.
we been talkin about it for a bit, it's like,,,, getting everything equal could be the issue.
I was reading an article by Glen Zeideker the other day about the Hbn.
he was one of the fore runners with the moly stuff, but threw it right under the bus when the Hbn come along.
 

Bass Ackward

Active Member
Interesting effort. One thing I think I can now add is that you guys are doomed. "Theories" go up proportionately with shooting effort. Fun though watching folks actually shoot and decide where to go next. Fiver: did you send me a brick of Purple Voodoo a decade or so back? Trying to place you.
 

Ian

Notorious member
That was probably Mike, AKA 357Maximum on the other site, that sent out the bricks of purple microwax lube for people to try. 45 2.1 mixed it with some fresh OLD NRA lube made with new USP petrolatum and said it "fixed the problems with both".

BTW, I was "Geargnasher" on boolits.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
As far as sprue plate lube goes, I think I'm going to order a bottle of Neolube to try out for sprue plates, alignment pins, and possibly even a mould release. From what I've been able to put together so far, I think this is the old, old NEI mould lube & mould release. I've seen it on almost every used NEI mould from the "Walt" era. It's colloidal graphite in an alcohol carrier. Walt Melander was a huge believer in the stuff. What are your thoughts on it?
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Magma sells the stuff also or used to, don't know if they still do. I ordered it many years ago & tried it once & chucked it in the trash. Then spent like forever trying to get the crapolla out of my mold. Learned since then that if a release agent is needed it's not needed. What is needed is correcting the mold and/or the mold temp. Only thing that goes in my cavities ever is molten alloy. This is the 21st century, I'll stick with 2 cycle oil for a sprue lube.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Dry graphite doesn't lube for beans. A mould at 400°F is technically "dry", since all moisture will be boiled away from the surfaces. Powdered graphite depends on moisture to lubricate the particles so they can slip against one another. Failure to lubricate in the absence of moisture is why NASA does not use graphite to lubricate anything intended to operate in the vacuum of space.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
might as well use a pencil as buy spray graphite.
I have a Walt mold I have been scrubbing that stuff out of for a couple years now too.
I'm about to the point of lapping the stuff out but it's down to a haze now.
I don't know why he ever even sold the stuff, I have only had one side of one cavity on one of his molds ever hang up enough I needed to rap a hinge pin or use a little smoke in that one side, the rest are open and shake.

anyway frankford arsenal sells the stuff now.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I just bought a few moulds from an estate sale, and the aluminum moulds all have the NEI stuff on them. That's what motivated me to find a source for it. There was quite a buzz about it in the old days, I think it even cured warts. I have tried the Frankford Mold Prep on sprue plates before without great results, and the sprue plates still got sticky. I've tried the usual Bull Plate, MP Mold Lube, 2 cycle oil and the rest, but still don't like oiling down my mould before and during use. I can see a need for lube, but like everyone here I always want something better. Carpenters pencils seemed... okay.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
no sense fighting it, once you open the container you might as well use it up before trying to clean up the excess your gonna find everywhere you didn't put it anyway.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
Although I do feel deprived for not having a daughter, a small bright spot has been that my boys don't even know what glitter is. Except for the glitter bombs one of my sons sends to a different friend every Christmas. His friends all know by now that come Christmas day, one of them is gonna be pretty.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
I'm still using the ECO AC oil, pour 10# of 145gr in a 2x mould, didn't have to lube the plate the whole pour. That stuff doesn't come off with any solvent after it cooks if you put it on thick.