Recommendation for PID components

minmax

Active Member
O.K. maybe my last two questions,
Who sells complete PID Controllers? I did a GOOGLE search and most where coffee makers and beer fermenting.
and two, is it better wire it directly or plug in lead melter to a receptacle and crank the factory thermostat all the way up?
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
Auberins and some guys over on the CB site.

plug in, it allows you to use it for other things like your luber, oven, hot plate, etc.
 

minmax

Active Member
By the way, I was going to special order blue led display an blue bling lights and a lighted blue computer fan. Then mount it a huge case, in the center of my bench. Or maybe pink and purple.
 
Last edited:

JonB

Halcyon member
My venture into building a PID, started with the Cheapest components possible.
But, I wanted it to display Fahrenheit.
So from "Deal Extreme", for $26 and free shipping from Hong Kong...4 weeks later, I got a PID ...that was defective.
http://www.dx.com/p/xmt612-pid-1-2-pid-temperature-controller-black-205178#.VZcgwvlViko
BUT
I was impressed with the manual, compared to what I heard about the Mypin.
So I ordered the same unit from a USA source, for a few bucks more, but shipping was extra.
http://www.lightobject.com/JLD612-Dual-Display-PID-Temperature-Controller-P43.aspx
While this PID can be setup to control temperatures on many things heating and cooling, I was happy to see the "example in the manual is just about exactly what we want it to do with a lead alloy pot.
http://fhupiora.fhupiora.home.pl/JLD612Manual.pdf

If you are going to build one, it's best to have a good grasp on it capabilities.
It'll help you understand how to set the parameters.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
O.K. maybe my last two questions,
Who sells complete PID Controllers? I did a GOOGLE search and most where coffee makers and beer fermenting.
and two, is it better wire it directly or plug in lead melter to a receptacle and crank the factory thermostat all the way up?

Just joined this forum so this info probably is no longer needed but here it is anyway.

Some will want to buy assembled units. "Uncle Russ" on the CBA Forums supplies units assembled and also in kit form I believe. "Pigslayer" on the Forum may be another option for those preferring to buy completed units.

The following links are a few of the ones that I know of that supply ready to plug and play units.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php7257435-PID-Temperature-Controller-s
http://jconninv.com/index.shtml
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php7221976-CompeteCast-PID-temperature-controller http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php7241440-PID-S-now-available
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_ info&cPath=8&products_id= 161
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php7185-ButterNutZ

I'd certainly wire in a receptacle so you can just plug the lead pot into it. PID's are also handy to control your luber/sizer heater. And yes turn the thermostat on the appliance to wide open.

And if you want to use different appliances on your PID get a panel/jack that allows you to just plug a TC into when you switch units. Some URL's for those little dandies.

http://www.omega.com/pptst/MPJ.html

http://www.newark.com/newport-electronics/rmj-k-r-n/panel-jack-type-k-miniature-connector/dp/29C5176

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_43&products_id=119

http://www.tcdirect.com/deptprod.asp?deptid=280
 

Mike W1

Active Member
While I'm thinking about it a search will likely yield a REX C100 as the least expensive PID controller. It's ONLY drawback is it only reads in Celsius. Not too difficult to convert C to F as we think in F in the USA. And how often do you actually change the set temperature?? I have one that I like and ordered another to replace a Mypin that I really didn't care for. I found the Rex did a better job for me than the Mypin.

Anyhow if one should go for a Rex you have to look a bit to find one that has SSR output. Most of them are relay output which CAN be converted but the one below is what you want. Note the Model # on this link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SSR-Output-...733932?hash=item1c5ad10c6c:g:p~8AAOSw5VFWFzTK
 

minmax

Active Member
I did end up going with Mypin. I bought it from a seller in the US, it came with everything needed to set it up. I also ordered extra K-type TC's from China.
Now that I have this one, I have been thinking about building one for my hot plate or toaster oven. Would you recommend a RTD since the temperature would be lower than the melting pot?
 

Mike W1

Active Member
I did end up going with Mypin. I bought it from a seller in the US, it came with everything needed to set it up. I also ordered extra K-type TC's from China.
Now that I have this one, I have been thinking about building one for my hot plate or toaster oven. Would you recommend a RTD since the temperature would be lower than the melting pot?

Frankly I don't know much about RTD's other than they hook up differently. My hot plate is controlled with one of the little TC's that screw into a threaded hole. Aubers recommend a TC with no larger than 1/8" as the response time is faster than the thicker shafts. Were it me I'd shoot Aubers an email and ask them about the RTD option.
 

minmax

Active Member
From my understanding (which could be totally wrong) The RTD is way more precise but not able to work at higher temperatures. Like we need for casting.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
Just for what it's worth I'll chime in again. Somebody mentioned a PID for a hot plate. My Auber unit keeps mine within a couple of degrees. The Rex works fine on my lead pot but not so hot on the hot plate. And neither did the Mypin.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
My electrical knowledge ends after plug it in and turn it on.
 

Ian

Notorious member
My electrical knowledge ends after plug it in and turn it on.

Mine doesn't but I still go brain-dead when it comes to programming anything. Took me like 30 minutes to figure out how to program a code with the DIP switches on our gate remotes.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
That's the beauty of a PID controller. All you have to do is set your preferred temperature and then let it autotune itself. Far as wiring one up there really aren't that many wires to hook up. I've talked several guys through the process without any problems. To me the benefit of building your own is you really do get a better idea of what is going on and a little more insight never hurts.
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
I don't fool with any of the controls or settings, I set it for 725*F, let it auto tune itself and haven't changed a thing.

When I put mine together, I didn't get all the connections right but, no magic smoke escaped. I had some help to figure it all out and there's plenty of knowledgeable guys that will help out. Just post any problems you encounter, no matter which controller you have. If you go by the schematics and just connect one wire at a time, one by one, "A" to "B", everything should go fine.