Ruger bolt problems

[waco]

I recently bought an older tang safety M77 in .257 Roberts from my Aunt. It was my uncles rifle, then my cousins. They have both passed. This rifle will not eject brass. I have an identical rifle in .22-250.
Looking at both of the bolts, I see the problem. There is a plunger in the Bol face. It is stuck "down" flush with the bolt face. My question is how do I disassemble the bolt to fix this problem. I can't seem to find info on the web for older Ruger bolts. Thanks again you guys. Here is a pic of the problem.

 

[fiver]

it's just like the ejector on a savage.
drift that pin out [you can see the hole in the picture] airc it's a 1/16" punch.
the ejector is supposed to push out from spring pressure.
watch out for the spring and pin that ejects the rounds they are easy to lose.
you may have to soak it in a little oil so it comes out easier, the pic almost looks like there is a little brass caught in the hole binding it up.

 

[waco]

Thanks Fiver. I'll give that a try.

 

[Ian]

What Fiver said. Might squirt a little penetrating oil on it or dunk it in Hoppe's or Ed's Red and poke at the ejector pin with the punch to try and loosen it an coax it back out to its normal position before you drift out the pin. Here's a tip for when you drift the pin: Do it in the shower with the curtain pulled closed, drain covered, and your safety glasses ON if you want to ever see the pin and spring again. Another tip, if you have a very heavy, large, clear plastic bag you can work inside that with your hammer, drift block, and punch.

 

[waco]

Ian. So I should be careful drifting out that pin???
I'll try all other options first!

 

[Ian]

All spring-loaded pins retained by a roll pin are pre-programmed to seek only two things when released: Human corneas and the most inaccessible cracks or crevasses in a room, usually in that order.

 

[waco]

LMFAO! That's the truth!

 

[Brad]

http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-par...tools/sinclair-ar-15-bolt-vise-prod34719.aspx

Whip up something like this. Holds the ejector in place while drifting the pin and releases spring tension slowly. Makes playing with a plunger like that far more enjoyable. I hafe this one for AR bolts and it works like a charm.

I have been known to drop a rag over springs like that too when working on them. A bag is a good idea too.

 

[RicinYakima]

Red shop rag and a rubber band make good catchment. But I'd try the oil and pushing in and out, as it is most likely just a burr on the cheap metal Ruger used for the plunger. FWIW, Ric

 

[Pistolero]

Drop of 50-50 ATF and mineral spirits and then bump it with a punch and your
hand or a piece of 1x1" (approx) wood a few times will probably get it unstuck.

If not, drive out the pin, as said previously.

Working inside a large transparent plastic bag is great for " 'sploding" parts.


Bill

 

[waco]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!
Thanks guys!
I soaked the bolt in Hoppes for a week and nothing would budge.
I finally decided to try to drift the pin out and fix the problem.
A few good smacks with the punch on the drift block didn't budge the pin, but did knock the plunger loose!
All is well in .257 Roberts land now!!!

 

[freebullet]

Myself I'd still wanna get that pin out to clean things up & check it out but, working works so......maybe best let alone.

 

[Ian]

I'd want to get it apart too. In the picture it looks like there's a big burr on the plunger that's scratched the blue off the inside of the hole on one side. Or maybe it was just glommed up with brass shavings like the rest of the bolt face was.

 

[waco]

Once the pin popped back out it was pretty obvious rust was the issue.That and maybe a little chunk of brass got wedged in there. I'm just glad it's working now. I got out and fire formed 60 cases I bought from Grumpa on the other site. Now I'm going to start working up a good heavy varmint/yote load with 87gr Nosler BT's