Ruger Super Redhawk 454

[Warren4570]

Guys I have a question
Have any of you ever experienced a failure to fire with your SRH?
Fired 75 rounds the other day
300gr cast once fired Hornady brass
and IMR4227 powder CCI mag primers.
Some loaded with trail boss too.
the trail boss loads no problem However some of the others loaded failed to fire ....
Read a bit about that happening to others on a few forums and wondered if anyone here has experienced the same thing.

 

[Brad]

I have a SRH in 44 mag and I can't recall a single failure to fire. I have used a variety of primers and they all went when they were supposed to.

Both 44 special and 44 mag loads. Probably have 2K plus rounds thru it, never a problem.

 

[frnkeore]

I have a RH (not Super) that I put in a Wolff reduced weight spring, to get a better (lighter) trigger pull. After doing so, it miss fires on any primer that I've tried.

You might check with Wolff to see if they have a stronger main spring and try that. The springs aren't very expensive and the SRH uses seperate main and trigger springs (unlike the RH's) so, it should do to much to your trigger pull.

Head space and firing pin extention, are the only other cause I can think of, for your problem.

Frank

 

[freebullet]

Just got mine last week. With less than 20 factory loads fired I've had no issues. Will be shooting cast in it tomorrow. Aren't the cci nickel plated? Nickel plated primers are slightly harder ime.

When I was tinkering with the gp100 the wolf springs proved completely unreliable. Light strikes galore. They also proved unreliable in a couple other guns. I won't even consider their products anymore.
Not happy I returned the wolf springs and ordered an extra set of factory springs. I sanded them down and polished them and the channel they ride in. Now it's smooth, slick, & reliable.

 

[Brad]

I think I put a Wolff spring in one but can't remember. Damn, that was almost 20 years ago. If I did then I can assure you it is a slightly reduced power mainspring.
Thinking back, I'm pretty sure I did. I got a spring kit and the lowest power spring gave misfires. The strongest of the reduced power is what I'm using now.

Another thing that helps is what freebullet mentioned. Polish the burrs off the mainspring strut. Make sure things are lubed properly. Don't lose energy to stuff like that instead of hitting the primer hard enough for good ignition.

 

[Warren4570]

Bought it used in Feb this yr ( it is in really nice shape) and after the first range trip stripped it down cleaned and oiled real well. Later I did put a wolf spring kit in it. Used the heaviest (12#) mainspring and the heaviest of the trigger springs.Seems the hammer may be rubbing a bit on the frame too as there are a few marks on the left side. When I get home again I will strip it & clean it, polish,and reoil. May even retry with the oem mainspring even though I did have a few FTF even with it. Seems to be a bit of side play in the hammer as well. With the first FTF I looked at hammer to frame fit and it seemed shifted slightly left... centered it in the frame cocked and refired and the round fired but that was not the case with all of the misfired rounds.
Looked at triggershims.com site and may order a kit from them to eliminate some of the side play in the hammer.
Have any of you used any of trigger shims products?
Need to correct this before the October hunt in Utah as a click with my bull elk in the sights instead of a boom would be very disheartening to say the least.

The only other thing I can think is that the primers may not have fully seated in the Hornady cases as well so I will verify that too. The hornady 454 cases seem to have a tight primer pocket in them ...

 

[Warren4570]

Frank I did look at that too.Have checked the cylnder gap to barrel clearance...and it is on the tight side of good as measured. Endshake appeared good but I cant remember the values for either right now.
That is definately something I will also look at.
The firing pin indents in the primer appear fairly consistent in location shape and depth but will measure the misfired cases to see if there is a depth of strike difference. That should indicate whether or not the hammer blow to firing pin is consistent.

Freebullet I will reinstall the OEM mainspring and retest

Brad thanks for the comments as always they are appreciated .....

Thankyou everyone for your thoughts they are appreciated

 

[freebullet]

Imr4227 is a bit touchy too. It likes med - warm charges. I've found it burns dirty at the low end. Not a good gallery load powder. I wouldn't be surprised if that were a contributing factor here. Do you mind me asking the charge?

I've heard the same f2f complaints with the low end of h110 too.

I ordered the shim washers in stainless back before anyone sold them for the specific purpose. It took quite a bit of research to source all of them in stainless.
I would like to do that to the srh after I get acquainted with it better. I would be real happy if I didn't have to buy a 10pack in each size needed, like I did back then.

 

[Brad]

If you can find them go to Federal standard primers. They are supposed to be a bit more sensitive and might light off easier. They also have a reputation for being very good in consistent ignition. I used them in my best performing 44 mag load with a healthy charge of H110 and they did very well.

 

[Warren4570]

28 grains and cci mag primers. If I remember right. I am at work and dont have my loading data handy. Load is a bit sooty yes, but no unburnt kernels and both trailboss and 4227 loads were fired.
The Hornady factory cases (new) have real tight primer pockets and I may have not fully seated the primer as well. That is another thing I am considering too. Have found it a bit tougher to "feel" when the primer is fully seated. Primers are seated in a single stage reloading press. The starline brass used for the 45-70 feels quite different when seating the primers.

Regarding the shims .... they do come in packages but at triggershims.com you also have the option of custom building your own shim pack. They have shims for both the hammer to frame and the hammer dog link to hammer connections. If cylinder gap to barrel and endshake play exist there are cylinder shim kits for that as well. Again custom shim packs can be built.

http://triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html

 

[Warren4570]

Brad I will probably try that too..... a switch in the primer .... helps narrow down the root cause of the problem.

Good point
Have 800 primers left from the first batch and I still want to be able to use them... once this is cured

 

[freebullet]

28gr is not a light charge, so that makes it a little more interesting.
I have some loaded with 300gr at 25 & 26 gr with 4227 but haven't fired them yet, maybe tomorrow. That should be 44 mag level.

I tried some over 9gr of titegroup today. Quite mild at around 1100fps. Shot around 4" @50yards. I think that will be a good dollar saver round for the pistol range.

I will look into the shim kit. Sounds like way less headache. Let us know your experience with that company if you order.

 

[Blaster]

SRH 454 and 480 uses a different spring than the 44 Mag and GP100, SP101. My guess is it is a heavier spring since the 454 is recommended to use Small Rifle Primers.

 

[Paden]

You say you bought it used? How do you know it has an oem spring in it? I'd start there...

 

[Warren4570]

I know it had the oem spring in it .... It has exhibited the same symptoms with both the oem mainspring and a wolf 12# mainspring.
Have a good relationship with the gunsmith that it was purchased through.

 

[Blaster]

You might have your gunsmith check the firing pin protrusion, might need a little bit off the top of the hammer that contacts the frame. Or a thicker transfer bar.

 

[Warren4570]

Was looking at the option too as well as polishing some to remove any burrs. Will most likely shim as well to mitigate the hammer and trigger side play.

 

[Warren4570]

Ordered the shims from lance @ triggershims they should be there by the time I get home. Stripped the revolver down and polished it some to clean up any burrs. Feels much better so far... a lot smoother.
.019" side play between frame and hammer and almost the same with the da hammer dog. Shimmed it will cut the side play down to .004". That wiĺl help ensure that the hammer drops centered in the frame and makes solid contact with transfer bar.

Was nice that I could take all the measurements figure out the size of shims wanted and order exactly what was needed. With satifaction garaunteed

 

[Warren4570]

Now I just need to decide on the sizing die size. Just picked up a star sizer.
Cylinders are pretty consistent with a .454 dia cast bullet just sliding thru. Will slug the bore when I get home as I havent done that yet.

Any recommendations? The 452 commercial cast bullets shoot pretty good. The ones I cast n sized to .454 did pretty good as well. Have both 452 n 454 lee push throughs right now. But having a bit of trouble choosing the size for the star die.
Some folks say 452, 453, and 454.
Sure could use some input on this one.Got any suggestions guys? Would really appreciate it.

 

[frnkeore]

I size and seat a bullet as close to the cyclinder size as possible so, I would use the .454. It should give the best alignment to the barrel if, the cyclinder is well timed.

If the groove diameter of the barrel is .452, I would still use the .454 sizer, the barrel will do the rest of the sizing.

Frank