Ruger Super Redhawk 454

[9.3X62AL]

My Built Backwards Bisley Blackhawk in 45 Colt came from Ruger with .452" grooves and .448"-.449" throats. using a Manson hand reamer, I opened the throats to the tool's .4525" diameter, then polished with fine alum oxide paper to .453". I run .454" castings through it with fine accuracy now. the front drive band on Keith SWCs has a slight draggy fit into the throats.

 

[Warren4570]

Well I got the shims from Lance @ Triggershims and installed.... real easy the only thing one has to be mindfull of now is when completely stripping the revolver to clean so you dont lose and of the installed shims.
Used the light wolf trigger spring I got in my reduced power kit however I removed the wolf mainspring and reinstalled the factory one, at the recommendation of you folks here.
Stoned and polished some of the mating / interfering surfaces when I installed the shims and trigger pull overall feel and slack in the components is now pretty much gone. I would recommend that to anyone doing some tweaking in the revolvers for sure.
The most important two noticable areas of improvement were the DA god and the hammer to mainframe fit up. Now both sit even and centered in their respective locations.
I will take some photos and post them here later on so you folks can see.
When I ordered I premeasured all the clearances and then custom ordered the package to suit. everything fit and performed as expected.

 

[Warren4570]

At the same time I also found a post by Iowegan on the Ruger forum and followed his instructions re the hammer notch material removal. It seems that a bit ove material removed also improves the hammer to transfer bar firing pin contact and energy transfer during firing. The task is really quite easy using a block a pin and then removing a few thou at a time and refitting in the revolver.
This all being done has greatly improved the cyclability of the revolver action and improved SA trigger pull. DA pull seems to be quite improved as well
unfortunately I have not measured actual trigger pull values before and after. But I can say it is greatly improved

As far as the FTF issue that I was experiencing this is now resolved as far as I can tell so far. 100 rounds downrange the other day not one FTF.
Previously the FTF issue was probably 2%+

However I also changed up my primers to WSR primers from the CCI SRmag primers I was using as well.

Feel much better now about hunting with it this year in Utah.

 

[Warren4570]

While measuring the shims up Cylinder endshake was also measured and although in spec could be improved slightly. So 2 .002" shims were also ordered.
Once the cylinder was removed from the crane there is a slotted screw that needs to be removed a bit from the gunsmithing kit was modified by cutting a slot in in it to allow it to fit over the protruding pin. It is reverse threaded so once removed it allows the installation of the shim as the ejector spring and such are no longer in the way. Then reassembled. Only 1 .002" shim (endshake bearing) was installed in the process. Now the endshake is greatly improved.
Cylinder gap is now consistent and endshake is on the minimum side of specs.
The other thing does is also improves the headspace as the cylinder to frame measurements stay more consistent.

After hunting season I will revisit the polishing and deburring steps to further the above steps.

 

[Brad]

Brownells makes a neat little tool specifically for that odd screw. The reverse threads took me some time to get used to.

So, how does it shoot? Other than going boom each time is accuracy improved? Just being confident it will always go off makes a difference.

 

[Warren4570]

Shoots good groups @25yd and 50yds however I keep moving to the group to the 9 position from the bull indicating that some work needs done on trigger manipulation.
The ftf issue probably has me a bit rattled subconsciously as well. But when I just focus on the front sight and relax it shoots well.
Lowered the charge to 24.1gr of 4227 with a 300gr gc bullet with the wsr primers.
Need to get some coaching on grip and squeeze to improve my shooting skills with it.Not real consistent yet but only been working with the revolver for a 8 months or so.Different skill set to shoot well I am finding out.

 

[James W. Miner]

OH yes, it is the SR primer and reduced starting loads. H110/296 the worst. You can blow a bullet into the barrel with unburned powder behind it. It is cured by only loading just below or at max.
I also cured it by cutting down .460 brass and using the LP mag primers. I like Fed 155's.
Now a click from a weak hammer spring has to be stopped, dead wrong to ever reduce those springs.
I shoot mostly SA and the first thing I do is to install Wolfe, over power variable hammer springs of 26#. Ruger and BFR springs are about 23# and will take a set to make them worse. I work with trigger springs and surfaces to get to 1-1/2# pulls.
If you shoot rifle rounds from a revolver that uses a LR primer, you should step up to a 28# spring.
I don't know the weight of the SRH spring from the factory. My experience with Ruger springs is that they take a set. I bought them by the dozen when I shot IHMSA because accuracy would fall off so I changed every time I started to miss.
Never loosen the strain screw on a S&W either.
Nothing worse to have a failure in bear country or just deer hunting.

 

[Warren4570]

The shims installed in the SRH are working well. I will do a write up as I strip it for cleaning tomorrow.
No FTF since I did a bit of work to it.
Once I do the write up on the shims I will post it here