Savage 23 D and the one screw action phenomena

[RicinYakima]

The idea is to nest the action atop the socket in a small blob of bedding compound which will replace the compromised wood in that area and flow slightly up the sides of the rear magazine strip. This will make a firm support for the rear of the action and will be a sort of channel which locks the action in vertically and laterally. Give me a minute and I'll draw a picture of what I'm imagining.

Yes I see what you are saying and that will be my next step.

 

[Ian]

Hopefully this makes sense. I exaggerated the socket at the bottom, it could be stepped and concealed completely under the screw head. You could bed the socket and action all at once if you devised a positive support for the rear of the receiver and removed wood around the socket area beforehand.

 

[RicinYakima]

At the same time you bed the top of the socket, bed just the cone at the bottom of the recoil lug and the back of the lug, or maybe do just the bottom of the recoil lug when bedding the rear socket and bed the back side and action behind the lug afterwards, at the same time you skim-bed around the rear stud/socket.

That may take some thinking. The issue is that the metal has to tilt up at the front to get the rear magazine strip to clear the magazine well. Not much but some clearance on the front of the recess.

 

[RicinYakima]

View attachment 23430

Hopefully this makes sense. I exaggerated the socket at the bottom, it could be stepped and concealed completely under the screw head. You could bed the socket and action all at once if you devised a positive support for the rear of the receiver and removed wood around the socket area beforehand.

Exactly what you said and that will be the next step. Having done epoxy bedding for many years, I prefer to stabilize and do several small pour rather than all at once.

Thanks for all your help and logical thought process.

 

[Ian]

The issue is that the metal has to tilt up at the front to get the rear magazine strip to clear the magazine well. Not much but some clearance on the front of the recess.

Good grief. That action design really is a soup sandwich. Is there any way you can fade off enough wood and/or metal to enable the action to be pulled straight up? I could make you a socket for the back out of aluminum or mild steel and mill enough of a slot in it to allow the stud a few degrees of swing.

 

[RicinYakima]

Savage pioneered the round stock receiver in 1919, basics for Rem 700 and 110 and all the others.

The attached picture shows the magazine release tab that just has to clear the magazine cutout in the stock. I think if the recoil lug is only bedded on the back 20% it will allow enough tip up to extract. I will have to dummy it up to make sure.

 

[RicinYakima]

Ever seen a 44-40 ?
The 23D was always the toughest to get to shoot well. Finally I found that the 40 gr Hornady V-MAX over a 80-90% of max of Lil Gun worked well.

Never even know that Savage even made one, let alone it would fit the bolt face.

The load I use is the Hornady 35 grain plastic tip with 13.0 grains of Lil'Gun, less than 38,000 CUP and 2850 f/s from that 25 inch barrel.

 

[Ian]

The attached picture shows the magazine release tab that just has to clear the magazine cutout in the stock. I think if the recoil lug is only bedded on the back 20% it will allow enough tip up to extract. I will have to dummy it up to make sure.

Oh, so it's a spring. Won't it flex enough to allow the action to be pulled straight up?

Yes, only bed the back side and very bottom of the recoil lug, that's what I was thinking. The pillar/socket part I was talking about making for the rear "stud" and gluing into the stock would only be for vertical clamping support and a little lateral support for the action. Basically give you something solid to pull the action down against at the rear where that punky, narrow web of wood is now. The front screw would pull the recoil lug down against an epoxy socket and lock the action in all directions to the bottom of the lug well rather than pulling against the action itself as the screw is tightened.

 

[RicinYakima]

I think that is the right idea, however the recess in the wood is 3/8 inch deeper than the lug is long. Considering making an aluminum spacer to take up most of the space and then just a thin coat of epoxy to apply for the rear and bottom? The wood there is very solid.

 

[Ian]

That would certainly work and would make estimating the correct amount of epoxy easier. If you used something like Pro-Bed, it would be plenty strong by itself. Heck, Acra-Glas gel would likely be plenty, especially if you added the flocking to it.

 

[Bret4207]

Did you look to see if there is any sign of the action bearing on wood back near the trigger? On at least 2 of mine there is a spot surrounding the safety where it bears somewhat. That may help with lateral play if you can bolster it.

 

[RicinYakima]

OK, ten days into the project and one trip to the range. Pillar bedding the main screw at the middle of the action worked just fine for control of the vertical. The depth in the stock was set with a small area at the very rear of the action, just behind the safety. Once this was established I bedded a washer in the stock under the recoil lug so that the lug bottom and the rear third of the lug are tight, but I can disassemble the rifle. Now there are three points of bedding; rear of action, main bolt and recoil lug. The forend was sanded to free float the barrel.

The first trip to the range was interesting. While the wide swings were gone, also the first four-shot groups size doubled. So while I was there, I put some business cards between the barrel and the tip of the forend, maybe 3 or 4 pounds of up pressure. Group size went down to the original cold barrel size of about 3/4". Only got the one group fired before a case head separated (old brass I should have thrown away 3 loadings ago) and was done for the day.

Next up will be to use the new bedding to position a little forend support.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Didn't read all the posts, just the title. I bought a used 23 D in 222 Rem. Sad part was, the last 1 1/2" of the bbl was shot... I bought it for the wood (and parted with it due to bbl condition). BUT - I am sure someone had built it for a BR rifle. It had a second VERY BIG and very gawdy FAT head machine action screw. My research indicated this was a normal thing to do to make it a cheap BR rifle.

 

[Bret4207]

You mean a 22 Hornet? No 23's were made in 222 I know of, not sure the action would take the pressure.

 

[L Ross]

Didn't read all the posts, just the title. I bought a used 23 D in 222 Rem. Sad part was, the last 1 1/2" of the bbl was shot... I bought it for the wood (and parted with it due to bbl condition). BUT - I am sure someone had built it for a BR rifle. It had a second VERY BIG and very gawdy FAT head machine action screw. My research indicated this was a normal thing to do to make it a cheap BR rifle.

Model 340?

 

[Bret4207]

Good thought L Ross, very likely. I let 2 340's in 222 slip through my hands. Wish I hadn't done that. The 22-250 was just way more exciting at the time.

 

[RicinYakima]

The end of the story. Finally quit raining and shot the 22 Hornet with the new bedding set up. This seems to be the right way, as below are shots #36 thru 40 fired in about 1/2 an hour. New zero and I will be satisfied with the rifle now. Compare it to the first target shown.

 

[Ian]

Yay! I like happy endings.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Bret/L - yeah, I think you are correct. I think mine was a 340. Parted with it quickly. Bought it because it WAS a 222 (always wanted one), but the wood was unreal! Sadly the last 1 1/2" of the bore wasn't so good. Went down the road. Replaced recently with a CZ 527 American in 222

 

[Bret4207]

CZ makes nice stuff!