Shotshells for Handgun Cartridges

Hawk

Well-Known Member
I need some advice for making shotshells for a Glock Model 20 in 10MM.
I carry the 10MM when I'm at the deer lease by myself, just in case a big boar hog takes personal offense at my presence.
After 35 years on this lease without ever seeing a snake, we are starting to see rattlesnakes and water moccasins with some frequency. I hunt one stand in a swampy bottom.
I have made shotshells for .38 Spl, .357 Mag and .44 Mag using plastic shot capsules, but have no experience with autoloaders.
I've got some No. 12 copper plated shot, that I've used in the revolver shotshells, as well as No. 7-1/2 and 9 shot.
I've seen reference to making shotshells using gas checks over and under the shot, but without a hard roll crimp, I'd be concerned about the checks rotating or moving and shot jamming the action.
There's probably plastic shot caplets on the market, and thinking about this, I may need the plastic nose to avoid feeding problems, but I thought I would ask the Gurus on this forum first.
Maybe someone has figured out how to do it. It never hurts to ask.
Of course, I could just buy some, but where's the fun in that!
 
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RBHarter

West Central AR
I haven't tried it but I'd bet you could use a 357 Sig die on a cut down 6.8 or x39 family case if your 10 will feed a WC or WFN and use the whole OAL that will fit in the mag . Use the Sig sizer to crimp and/or form the nose step and or set HS for the fire form . As long as it doesn't hang in the port you're good to go .

I'm an over simplifier . I cut 410s off at the face of the shortest 45 cyl face and used 410 wads and a needle nose pliers to form a 5 pt crimp . So take any suggestions as an adaptive application solution .
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I don't think I'd try to mimic a bullet shape out front.
I also doubt they sell 40 caliber shot shell capsules. [maybe they do?]

if I were to do anything like this, it'd involve a cannelure tool on the case.
a check on the bottom a card at the top and some elmer's glue.
I'd also slide the round into the chamber before closing the slide and only count on it being a single shot.
[maybe a work around maybe not]
 

Ian

Notorious member
If you can buy shot cartridges, do that. Otherwise try the dual gas check method and see if both checks clear the barrel. Keep one in the chamber, you can always rack it out if you need a solid. Don't expect the shotshells to cycle the action unkess you do like RB suggested and make a full brass cartridge with heavy star crimp like .22 rimfire blanks and ratshot.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
One option I just thought of.


The extractor will hold the case. Thai is only #9 but will shred snakes just fine.

One other thing. Hogs hate snakes and usually eliminate them maybe the hog numbers are down in your area?

CW
 
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Hawk

Well-Known Member
One other thing. Hogs hate snakes and usually eliminate them maybe the hog numbers are down in your area?

CW

No on the hog numbers. They're way up.
I've got game cam pics of 40 to 50 hogs at my feeder at one time! Like 4 of 5 generation in the same herd.
The paper company that owns the land told us if we don't start thinning then out, they will bring in professional hunter, which we don't want.
We're also limited in that we can't bring guests to hunt, just family.
I haven't had time to watch the videos, yet.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Shot shells (CCI) won't cycle in my XD40. They pattern like the vid, but are effective at 5-10 ft. I chamber one but need to clear the stovepipe for the solids. Your place must have young trees and protecting them gets expensive. Pro hunter probably trap and sell for canned hunts. hogs will eat snakes but generally they aren't in the same place.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Dadgummit Hawk, don't make me come up there with my suppressors, night vision, and thermal optics! You could tell them I'm your cousin or BIL. I can duct tape my drain tubes to my chest and shoot right-handed, and be there in about six hours. Of course my wife would muuuuurder me when I got home.....:oops:
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
CWLONGSHOT, I watched the videos.
The 327 is a rimmed cartridge. I'm not sure how I would crimp the 10MM.
The second video gave me some ideas, but I'm more OCD than that guy. I'd have to at least weight SOMETHING that goes in the case.
Whatever I come up with, I know it will have to be loaded by hand and will be a hand action cycle after shot. I'm just trying to figure a way to keep the shot from coming out when loading or bouncing around in a UTV.
Maybe an over powder cardboard wad, shot and an overshot cardboard wad held in place with some hard lube.
That way, there should be nothing left in the barrel after the shot.
Or an over powder cardboard wad and an over shot charge gas check. That way the shot blows the check out.
You have given me some good ideas.
Thanks. Don't stop now!
 

david s

Well-Known Member
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david s

Well-Known Member
I've made shot shells for revolvers using the CCI shot capsules in 44 and in the 41 magnum with 41 cases and modified 30-30 cases and cut down 410 shotgun wads. For over wad cards I have used a scrap piece of picture matting card board that was given me. For the 10mm these over card wads would work with a smeared drop of hot melt glue. A backwards 40 caliber gas check would serve as an over powder wad. The shot shell loads in the 41 magnum cases only carried an 80 grain (shot, cut down 410 wad and over shot wad) or so pay load. In my experience going for a high velocity with these is a mistake 800-950 fps or less seemed best.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
It seems to me that a 10mm case mouth could be roll crimped over a heavy overshot wad, or a 10mm gas check with a 38-40 Winchester roll crimp die.

I'm probably overthinking things again.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
10MM head spaces on the mouth.
Can't apply a roll crimp or the case has nothing to heads space on.
That's the problem, how to hold the overshot wad without the roll crimp.