Small project for a member

Ian

Notorious member
Making some neck expanding spuds of the RCBS form to fit the LEE universal expanding die body.

After several tries I finally got the sequence of operations and the relief cut (my invention, takes away a half hour of blending with needle files and sandpaper) worked out.

O-1 tool steel, now to harden and finish polish.

20201025_141516_20201025141721755.jpg
 
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462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Spiffy idea and outcome, Ian.

Looks like it could be sized to fit Lee's universal expanding die body, as well.

I've been reading your RCBS expanding die spuds posts for years. I have two of them, one in the .38 Special set I got in trade from you, and one I recently bought in case I ever cast for the .223 Ruger American. After making numerous measurements, comparisons to the many Lyman M-die spuds (some specially made), and much deliberation, I think I've come to realize their benefit(s) over the Lyman. Problem is, RCBS offers such a narrow number of dimensions.
 

Ian

Notorious member
DOH! I meant Lee, Lyman doesn't nave such an animal and all their spuds are threaded.

Depending on caliber and whether you crimp or not, the "M" type spuds are usable, but have their issues.....even more so than RCBS the sizes are limited and almost always wrong, in fact you get ONE size per caliber, with "31" being the one used most often for .30-caliber cast bullets. Fun fact, the M spuds are actually intended for JACKETED bullets to improve accuracy and you will find them well-suited for such.
 
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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Looks good. I like the little relief groove.
Does it need to be hardened? How much would it really wear in a normal lifetime?
I don’t know?
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
DOH! I meant Lee, Lyman doesn't nave such an animal and all their spuds are threaded.

Depending on caliber and whether you crimp or not, the "M" type spuds are usable, but have their issues.....even more so than RCBS the sizes are limited and almost always wrong, in fact you get ONE size per caliber, with "31" being the one used most often for .30-caliber cast bullets. Fun fact, the M spuds are actually intended for JACKETED bullets to improve accuracy and you will find them well-suited for such.
Yep.

The cost of the custom M-die spuds I've had to pay for could have been used as a downpayment on a lathe. Oh, and add the cost of the custom made lubesizer dies. ;)
 

Ian

Notorious member
Looks good. I like the little relief groove.
Does it need to be hardened? How much would it really wear in a normal lifetime?
I don’t know?

Hardening isn't so much about wear. I prefer the spuds to be hard as I can possibly make them so they glide easily in and out of the necks. The 304 SS spuds that I've been making for myself cannot be hardened and get scuffed and drag a lot more than I would like. After fully hardening the O-1, the necks don't even need lube, kind of like carbide.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Yep.

The cost of the custom M-die spuds I've had to pay for could have been used as a downpayment on a lathe. Oh, and add the cost of the custom made lubesizer dies. ;)

I tried to learn from everyone else's regrets and just bought a suitable lathe not long after finding I needed custom items for reloading and gunsmithing. Turning and parting 5/8" O-1 and cutting square threads in barrel tenons is definitely straining the limits of what a benchtop 7x14 and high-speed steel tooling can do, but with light cuts, sharp tools, and patience it can make just about any round tool on your loading bench.

With the extra chucks, Aloris-clone toolpost system, and the basic other upgrades and tooling I'm into my lathe system for about $1,400-1,500, but it "makes" money just about every time I turn it on.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
" but with light cuts, sharp tools, and patience it can make just about any round tool on your loading bench."
And that is the key!
 

Rcmaveric

Active Member
Learning to turn metal is on bucket list also. At this rate of things I want my dream work shop with loft man cave is going to the size of my dream home and just as expensive to equip.

Too often it has taken alot of time and money to have custom tools made. I dont mind the money part it went to fellow backwoods tinkers/cast bullet engineers. But the wait annoys me.
 
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Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
That one looks really nice, Ian!

I’m sure the member is very grateful for all your hard work.

Josh
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
I have made 3 or 4 Lyman type Spuds just on my Drill press. They are not as good as made on a lathe but they work.
I make the spud part first the best I could with files as the drill press turns and then use emory cloth to finalize,,,, and polish with carborundum papers!
I leave a part of a shank section above so I can turn the piece around in the drill press and hog down the "to be threaded section".
When I get close I take it out put it in a vice and hand thread that end! If I remember it is 10 -32! Like I said it is no where precision but my over size Mil Surps do not mind..... They work ok
I have to say that 80 to 90 percent of my reloading tools are custom made! Seems I do not have much in the way of standard calibers
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
I have a flint and steel striker made out of 0-1. The blacksmith did not get it to harden very well. I don't think he got it hot enough. So instead of sending it back I heated it up with my turkey fryer to glowing just past the orange stage. Then set just the striker portion in ATF. Boy she threw sparks after that.

I had it made as a Nordic dragon. It sits in a altoids tin with a nice piece of English flint. I have a pic somewhere???? Found a bad pic101_0485_zpssxi3j4nb.jpg


How does that 01 turn on the grizzly @Ian ?
 
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Ian

Notorious member
It turns just fine, but you'd better have sharp tools and your geometry just right. In the pic I posted you can see the 100% as-turned finish on the big end, untouched by file or sandpaper. 9/16" OD, 350 RPM, .008" depth of cut, slowest leadscrew speed (only one gear arrangement for turning), peels a continuous chip.