So you want to make your own bullet lube.

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
There is no limit to the ingredients that can and are used in bullet lube. The lube you need to make depends on what you want to shoot it from among factors such as cold/hot weather, velocity/pressure and more. Here is an article that starts out explaining what lube is, what you need it to do and how it does or doesn't perform. Next is a list of some of the ingredients used, what they are and where they come from. It's not possible to list everything that is or has been or could be used in bullet lube, that list would be truly huge but this should give an idea of different ingredients and a place to start.

Bullet lube ingredients/descriptions & Lube Recipes

Rick
 
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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
As a person who has made many different lubes I can say one thing with certainty- do your research before dumping stuff together. Each lube ingredient is has a purpose. Dumping a bunch of stuff together isn't a way to make lube.
Like many things, Google can be your friend.
 
3

358156hp

Guest
While we're on the subject. A friend of mine wants to color his lube. I'm not terribly excited about using crayons for this, but I do see coloring additives for candles. The packages don't tell me what they're made of. Would these additives significantly alter the bullet lube itself? There are liquid additives, and solid ones. I don't like the idea of adding a liquid anything to lube, but the solids may have some potential. What do you think?
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I think most of the solids are fine. Yaley makes a bunch of them for use in candles. I would probably melt a little of them with some beeswax of paraffin and see how they do. Seems I heard that some didn't mix into wax very well, they are made for gel candles or some such thing.
I can tell you this, my lubes are all whatever color the ingredients make them. I don't care how they look, only how they shoot.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I use solid wax die colors from a candle making store. It takes very, very little to color a batch of lube and I could never tell any difference in the way the lube performed with or without the die. My only intention in using the color is for lube identification, after I had made several lubes that all looked alike I started color identifying them.
 
3

358156hp

Guest
Perfect! The reason for it is kind of cute. He's trying to get his girlfriend involved in casting and reloading. Her favorite color is purple, so he wants purple lube for her! I'll knock out a batch of purple Felix lube for him to present to the GF. I bought a package each of red, and purple. I need to use up some of the lube components I'm swimming in right now anyway.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Swimming in? I own 8 pounds each paraffin, microwax, and beeswax. That goes with a gallon of 90 wt gear oil, some tranny gel, soap, and a bunch of other goodies.

Stop by some day, I can show you the fun stuff.
 
3

358156hp

Guest
I will. You have me on a couple of things, especially gear oil:). Have you worked with engine assembly lube, like that offered by Clevite and Federal Mogul? The stuffs pretty sticky, and I've been wondering if Lucas Red Grease is related to it somehow.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Never tried engine assembly lube. We need Ian to comment on stuff like that, it is his line of work. We did use tranny assembly goo in place of vaseline.
The gear oil is mixed with microwax to make a replacement for vaseline.

I'm telling you, stay away from Ian on this stuff. Next thing Ya know you have 30 little bags of lube
 

Ian

Notorious member
The jury is still out on all the varieties of super-duper EP additives in bullet lube. Most engine assembly lubes contain some form of organo-metallic zinc and/or molebdenum compounds (either with sulphur or other complexes) which serve as 'boundary lubricants', meaning they will prevent metal galling well past the pressure point when lubricating oils are squeezed out or burned away and can no longer provide the normal dynamic film lubrication that oils do. Sounds good in a rifle barrel, doesn't it? If a soft lead bullet zinging down a rough steel tube with blistering-hot propellant gas behind it isn't a boundary condition I don't know what is. The problem is that bullet lubrication is unique in the world of tribology and there isn't an industrial analogy for which machinery lubricants have been developed. Bullet lube has some very unique requirements, most of which we have only a very limited, empirical understanding.

In the world of moving metal parts, the closest thing we have to compare to a bullet-barrel interface is the babbit bearing on a polished steel journal. For low-speed, heavy load, high heat applications such as kiln bearings, an open well is used to apply stiff sodium brick grease constantly and directly to the journal itself. For high-speed babbit, thin oil is injected into the bearing directly under pressure through lubrication passages, and typically the journal has a lateral load and some engineered clearance to allow the oil to enter from the off-side, where there is clearance, and provide a constant supply to be wicked between the surfaces at the pressure point. Engine crankshaft and camshaft bearings operate this way. With bullets, we can afford neither clearance nor reliable pumping pressure, and the velocity is several hundred times the surface speed that most greases or even oils are rated for. The only reason bullet lube works at all is the distance and duration is very short.

Research devoted to bullet lubrication has pretty much been limited to hobbyists like us with little background in fluid mechanics and even less access to laboratory equipment capable of measuring meaningful values, so the research is both painfully slow and often times inconclusive. Even the experiments the NRA did half a century ago aren't extremely relevant today when many of use are approaching or exceeding 3,000 fps with our rifles. Not many lubes deliver the goods much past 2200 fps, so we're on our own here. One thing that Col. Harrison of the NRA determined that I do tend to agree with, and is relevant to this conversation, is that any sort of "solid" in a bullet lube isn't necessarily desirable. I personally don't like graphite or molybdenum disulphide in my lubes, such things are tempermental, can be forced out of the mix under high pressure, leave inconsistent deposits in the bore, and really don't seem to help the boundary lubrication aspects of the system very much. Soft lead bullets bearing on hardened steel have different requirements than two hardened surfaces bearing on one-another, which is what these extreme-pressure additives in greases, assembly lubes, and lubricating oils are engineered to do. One of the best lubes ever invented is the OLD NRA formula of equal parts beeswax, paraffin wax, and Vaseline, which contains no semblance of "EP" additives aside from the mono- and di-esters contained in the beeswax. Zinc dithiodiphosphate (ZDDP) is a common oil additive and camshaft break-in lube which remains in suspension under all but the most demanding conditions. It is what makes STP oil treatment what it is, thought the EPA has virtually mandated it out of existence for engine use because it is damaging to exhaust catalyst beds and is on the emissions "hit list". Certain polymer compounds are being used to replace it, Fuchs oil company being one of the pioneers in this respect. I can't really tell if ZDDP is good or bad for bullet lube, in fact I don't think it makes as much difference as the type of base oil in which it's dissolved does for the lube. Something about those soft lead bullets seems unaffected by these advanced boundary lubricants. Wax and oil seem do do the job just fine, especially when buffered with a lot of metallic soap thickener to control melt and flow. Basically, bullet lubrication needs to function on the "dynamic film" side of things, that means floating the metals on a wet film to keep them from contacting. We do this by keeping gas sealed behind the bullet so it doesn't wash away the film, and making a lube that flows just enough but not too much and thins predictably as the bullet accelerates. The bullet needs a very high-strength, stiff film to protect it during engraving process (and a slight bit of gas leakage right at launch which blows a littel lube ahead of the bullet helps here), yet the lube needs to be thixotropic and thin under pressure/shear so that it can 'keep up' with the needs of the bullet as sliding speeds approach several hundred feet per second farther down the bore. Another trick is to engineer the lube so that, as pressure drops off toward the muzzle, it doesn't get "dumped" in the bore as the bullet "relaxes" and fit tolerances increase.

Ever hear the phrase "running out of lube" used to express the reason for lead streaks appearing only toward the muzzle end of the bore? I don't believe in such a term. Lubrication failure it might be, but lack of lube I doubt. What tends to happen, and anyone can verify this the same way I did by adjusting powder burn rate or alloy composition, is that gas leaks form around the bullet as pressure drops off, allowing gas cutting and lead dust deposits. A lube that lacks sufficient viscosity to resist this relax-point blowout will experience dynamic film failure and contact abrasion can also occur from that point forward in the bore. Metal salts like lithium or sodium stearate help control viscosity, flow, and blowout. So do slow powders and resilient, springy alloys that resist relaxing. Another thing that helps prevent muzzle-end leading is using an alloy that resists particle abrasion. Antimony has a bad habit of sloughing off in the bore when used in excess, particularly on the leading edge of the lands at steep approach angles and high speeds, and can abrade leaving gaps for the lube to blow out causing leading from increased abrasion and gas cutting. There isn't a high-tech additive I know of that can prevent this sloughing or keep it from sticking to the bore. If I find one you guys will be the next to know.
 

Ian

Notorious member
One more thing, about the sticky-clingy lubes. Bruce Fornesi, who is a bona-fide lubrication engineer, helped our understanding of these sorts of things quite a bit. The common thing used to make greases and oils stringy and tacky is called polybutene. It's what makes things like some chassis greases and and chainsaw bar oil super-stringy and sticky, and it typically takes an additive rate of less than one percent to accomplish this. Brad and I fooled around quite a bit with the stuff and even used it in its pure form to supplement our lubes, I found it helps increase film strength and, like it does in two-cycle lubes where it's added at about 15%, it reduces lube smoke. What's NOT so good about it is it congeals in the bore quickly and makes the next cool-barrel shot fly a bit out of the group. This is very consistent with both pistols and rifles. I fixed the problem by adding 3% hexagonal Boron Nitrate powder, or by reducing the amount of polybutene to under 5% in a wax-free lube and under 2% in a wax/soap/oil based lube. A little is good, a lot not so much. I think the amount used in most automotive greases is fine, but some of the industrial slip-yoke and marine greases (the ones that take special guns to pump and will stretch a string several feet like hot cheese) have too much polybutene to be good for our lubes.
 

Ian

Notorious member
You guys do realize that Glen has to be getting quite a kick out of all this fuss over bullet lube, don't you?
 
3

358156hp

Guest
Okay, theoretical question time. Are we lubing the wrong end of the bullet? Conventional practice has been to place the lube as close to the base as possible. Perhaps the primary reason is to take advantage of the bullet compressing as the nose of the bullet essentially travels down the bore creating resistance to its forward travel, while the base of the bullet is of course being pressured or pushed by the expanding powder gasses generated by ignition of the powder charge. The resulting bullet compression would follow the path of least resistance and compress, and therefore pressurize the bullets lube grooves. The resulting pressure creates hydraulic pressure in the lube, which forces the lube against the bore of the firearm. Whew! If it were possible to apply the same circumstances to the front of the bullet, do you feel we'd see any benefit? I do understand that these circumstances would make every bullet a wadcutter of sorts, but at this point I'm just interested in the theoretical aspect. Or, more simply put, would we see any benefit if we were able to pressurize a lube groove closer to the nose of the bullet?
 

JSH

Active Member
I started off using store bought. Put an end to that after some leading issues. I made a batch of Felix' world famous lube, aka FWFL. Have not looked back or any further. I have run it at jacketed speeds through several rifles with nary a glitch. Not just a couple of rounds to say I did it. Several 40 round matches.
I have stayed away from moly, synthetic and petro products. It was to my understanding that due to heat and pressures that the petro would in effect turn to asphalt?
I am all ears on the subject if your buddy would have any input in laymens terms on petro lubes, Ian.
Jeff
 

Ian

Notorious member
HP, since obturation before the bullet fully corks the bore in the throat is typically iffy at best, I maintain that a bit of fresh lube DOES get around to the front side each shot, carried by a whif of leaking powder gas. It is practical to forego lube entirely if the bullet is perfectly obturated (sealed) from leaking gas from the very first of the primer ignition by a compacting filler, though this method does have upper limits. Utilizing some mechanism that keeps hot gas contained 100% behind the bullet can prevent leading, and we know a good lube will not always prevent leading if the gas can leak due to too-hard or undersized bullets. I have been back and forth several times with my "beliefs" regarding lube being a lube or lube being a fluid gasket. My suspicion is that it one can generally presume that it acts in both capacities, more or less, depending on the particular system. That said, to the point of your question, I don't think taking particular measures to lube the front end of the bullet would be of particular benefit any more than it is in a pellet rifle, provided that sufficient obturation is achieved. Have you EVER seen a pellet rifle lead the bore? The only instance of lubing the front side that I've really played with, other than not wiping goobered-up noses sometimes, is dipping noses in very thin tumble lube to help the engraving a bit. Abrasion leading just doesn't happen much unless there is a really rough spot in the bore or the alloy is too brittle and being forced too hard into steep lands. Further, some of the worst lubes to use accuracy-wise are those which are in fact too good at doing the job of lubrication because they are too slippery. Lube has to provide friction, and repeatable friction at that, in order to be consistent.

Jeff, I've never had asphalt form in the bore of a smokeless-powder arm. Moly, soap, and mineral deposits, yes, but not really oil sludge. Modern petroleum lubricants are pretty much asphalt-free, and in fact are laboriously and meticulously de-waxed as well to improve their lubricating properties. Bruce381 identified and distributed samples of certain types of oils at our request that tend to burn more cleanly than others, but the sort of "dirt" that was in question was ash which can damage catalytic converters and foul critical engine parts. The cleanest of the clean are ester oils (beeswax is composed in significant part of many types of esters). Polyalkyleneglycols (PAGs) are both clean burning and extremely good solvents, oddly not so much of a good thing in a rifle bore as we discovered. The synthesized polyalphaolifins such as the base stocks of the Mobil1 line of lubricants burn cleanly as well and leave little carbon or ash behind. Conventional dinosaur squeezings from times past contained various levels of minerals and sludgy stuff that was impractical to refine away with the technology available then, but nowdays are pretty much contaminant free in all but the lowest, non-critical grades. What does NOT burn cleanly are minerals and soaps. Just about the nastiest stuff out there regarding petoleum sludge has been hailed as an ideal bullet lubricant for generations: Alox 2138F. It is loaded with calcium soap, magnesium soap, elemental versions of both and a host of other mineral junk that settles to the bottom of the fractional distilling towers. It worked fairly well as a bullet lubricant when combined with beeswax because the wax helped keep the minerals from being cooked out of suspension and deposited in the bore....until pressure and velocity really start to climb. Alox 2138F also kept from burning because it was already just about as oxidized as it could possibly be, and thus fairly non-flammable in solid or liquid form. Most all of the volatile solvents had been cooked off of 2138F, and since it will only burn in a vapor state, it is pretty well safe in a rifle bore because the intense heat required to vaporize it isn't present for sufficient duration to have much effect. After pursuing the cleanest-burning lube we could theoretically devise we found that it really doesn't make that much difference in a gun, the repeatable CONSISTENCY of the residue in the bore is what mattered most from an accuracy standpoint. Pete, one of our cohorts, coined the acronym "CORE", or Consistency Of Residuals Encountered (by the bullet) to describe this phenomena. A lube that exhibited good CORE usually shot very accurately under a wide range of temperatures. Changes of CORE give us cold-barrel flyers, clean bore flyers, "purge" flyers, or gradual improvement or deterioration of accuracy over a long string of fire because the characteristics of bore fouling attributable to lube is fluctuating. My take on it is that if you have unwelcome deposits forming in your bore that can be attributed to the lube itself, it likely isn't the residues of the oil causing them, but some sort of other compound in the mix.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
here is an area where Ian and myself differ.
I do use assembly grease, moly, and assorted other 'things' he doesn't find useful [alox]
:rolleyes:
percentages,grades, and a lubes viscosity [especially a manipulated one to become thixotropic under pressure]
can make use of some of the not so useful oils and waxes.
knowing what to look for and where to look in the barrel is a useful tool to help change how the lube you are using works better.

two of the changes I had to make to the moly complex lube to help it work better [over a wider range of temps/and pressure conditions]was to add some candle paraffin and some atf.
the paraffin was to speed up the flow rate of the lube and the atf was to add that little bit of friction and to help the lube get past the relax point without it stopping it's flow abruptly.
 

Ian

Notorious member
ATF also has a powerful dispersant package in it that helps keep solids in suspension so they can get caught in the filter instead of settling out in critical spool valves and bleed orifices.....might help that moly stay with the lube instead of puking out and streaking in the bore like it sometimes has done for me at, come to think of it, what I think might have been the relax point of the load/alloy/rifle combo. See my signature line....

As an aside, do you think we could predict the relax point by figuring BHN and using Quickload to find where the pressure falls below the yield strength of the alloy?
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
bhn [alloy composition really] and gas volume related to bore volume would give you an idea where to look.
remember how I found it?
and what I done to finally define what it was.
I found I could change where it was by manipulating the lube and by changing the gas volume [pressure/time curve]

I just remembered something.
i tried using a tsp of xlox [alox-350] in the early simple lube tests to change the property's of that lube just enough to get it past the relax point in a 303 rifle.
and it worked.
that still remains a little bit of a mystery to me.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the moly I use is not the small little fine powdered stuff. [like lyman uses]
I have to heat the lube to a peanut butter consistency when I add it in [to keep the molly in suspension]
or it wall fall right to the bottom of the pot no matter how much I stir.
 

bpjon

New Member
Just to be different, when I made my last batch of Darr lube I added several drops of peppermint oil. The lube works the same, but my Lube-O-Matic smells great!