Ian
Notorious member
Doesn't look like much but many hours went into stripping the old green paint off of the sheaves, rods, linkages, and shafts. Citri-strip works pretty well for a non-tox product, just takes patience.
Not the best light from the shop LEDs but the brass placards turned out nice after a citric acid and detergent treatment followed by Turtle Wax.
The ram is stripped and primed (four coats, letting it harden overnight before painting tomorrow), the motor frame is cleaned, sanded, and primed, and the housing for the table advance is ready for paint and reassembly (getting the clockwork apart was a research and nail-biting hammer and punch affair which also involved making a spanner to remove the nut for the hand crank).
All that's left after finishing those items is cleaning and painting the junction box, switch box, and belt guards, then going completely through the vise, the table, all the felts and brass wiper plates, the head, and the clapper box. Lots and lots of small details to take care of there.
Repair items include fixing or re-making the damaged gib for the head, milling grinding, and scraping the bar that moves the ram, making a new crank bushing, and casting and machining a bronze sliding block if I can't find an affordable hunk of 660 or 932 bearing bronze.
This is the wear and galling that will need to be fixed on the arm. More photos to come as I go through that process. The sliding block and bushing are so wallered-out and galled from chip ingestion and lack of lubrication that there is about .030" of slop in the movement. That translates to about 1/8" of slack when the ram reverses, making a bad stop/slam/jerk at each end if the travel.
Not the best light from the shop LEDs but the brass placards turned out nice after a citric acid and detergent treatment followed by Turtle Wax.
The ram is stripped and primed (four coats, letting it harden overnight before painting tomorrow), the motor frame is cleaned, sanded, and primed, and the housing for the table advance is ready for paint and reassembly (getting the clockwork apart was a research and nail-biting hammer and punch affair which also involved making a spanner to remove the nut for the hand crank).
All that's left after finishing those items is cleaning and painting the junction box, switch box, and belt guards, then going completely through the vise, the table, all the felts and brass wiper plates, the head, and the clapper box. Lots and lots of small details to take care of there.
Repair items include fixing or re-making the damaged gib for the head, milling grinding, and scraping the bar that moves the ram, making a new crank bushing, and casting and machining a bronze sliding block if I can't find an affordable hunk of 660 or 932 bearing bronze.
This is the wear and galling that will need to be fixed on the arm. More photos to come as I go through that process. The sliding block and bushing are so wallered-out and galled from chip ingestion and lack of lubrication that there is about .030" of slop in the movement. That translates to about 1/8" of slack when the ram reverses, making a bad stop/slam/jerk at each end if the travel.