Spru cutters

[rodmkr]

May sound crazy but has anyone ever made a handle for a 2 cavity mold ( Lee or otherwise)
I hate the sprue tappers and have thought about a removabe handle to use and exchange each time you change molds.
Do not have the equipment to work metal so thought to ask and maybe get ideas.

Jim

 

[Pistolero]

I cut my sprues with a gloved hand.

Bill

 

[RBHarter]

I wish my NOEs had a helper handle like the Lee 6C .
I'd like to see something like that .
It doesn't seem like it should be a really big deal to build an extension handle with some sort of a set screw clamp arrangement .

 

[358156 hp]

I cut my sprues with a gloved hand.

Bill

As do I. With proper timing, even 4 cavity moulds aren't that taxing.

 

[fiver]

I'm just spitballin this but an offset 'cutter pusher' bolted through the left handle might work just as good on a 2 cav lyman or the like.

 

[Rick]

If my mold is at a good casting temp I just push it open with a finger of a gloved hand. Pretty rare I use a stick or anything else.

 

[fiver]

if you look at the core molds on RCE's sight you'll see how they extend their sprue cutter handle with a wood piece.
ignore the bolt it to the bench part and just look at the leverage generated by that longer handle.

 

[rodmkr]

reason I asked the question is I am a stroke survivor and altho I have the use of my left hand it isn't complete and sometimes gives me the fits .
A handle on the sprue cutter would be a great help.
Tried flattening a piece of copper pipe to fit over the handle(small) of the sprue cutter but it sticks out the wrong way and is more of a PITA than the sprue tapper.
Would like to use the gloved hand method as I used to do but the hand doesn't
work like it used to.

Jim

 

[fiver]

I seen a little deal that would help you.
but in your situation I think I would rig up a block of wood with a hook on it that you could put the plate against and push the mold to the side.
this would allow you to keep the mold flat to the bench and just push to the left using the handles as your leverage point.

to picture it you'd have to slide your mold rearward under the hooked piece then push left on the handles.
then push it forward, flip the mold over to dump the sprue and open to empty.
the 'hook' would look like a reversed L with a tab at the bottom.

 

[popper]

Don't think the Lee mould can take much abuse on the sprue bolt. Actually, 2 bolts with proper spacing you could open the sprue plate just pushing on the handles. One to the rear-left and one to front-right the mould fits in between. Place mould in "channel" and use handles to apply pressure to the sprue leg.

 

[GRMPS]

rodmkr, check my thread here

https://artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/sprue-opening-jig-prototype.4384/post-86300

 

[popper]

Anybody know Accurate moulds sprue plate pivot screw thread size? Tinkering today, want to replace with a flange head bolt (cap screw with a flange). Idea is to bore large hole in a steel plate, another to take a bolt at proper location for 'finger' on the plate. Turn mould upside down, pivot bolt in hole and 'finger' touching other bolt. Twist handles to cut sprue. Should be enough space with the tall flange head to miss sprue puddle. All force is on the pivot and 'finger' of the plate and should keep the plate flat when cutting a hard sprue. Every once in a while I wait too long. If I make the plate correctly I can even dump the sprue back in the pot.

 

[Ian]

rodmkr, check my thread here

https://artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/sprue-opening-jig-prototype.4384/post-86300

Thanks, saved me looking for your thread!

 

[Pistolero]

There's no reason why an extension couldn't be screwed or brazed onto the tab, too. But it does
seem like the bench solution and no mods to all the molds is a better way for gaining some
mechanical advantage.

 

[popper]

Posted some place, my cutter experiment worked great - cuts very cooled sprue easily. Got the screw out - now to the store to find a steel spacer to fit under the head - no large headed screws at Granger. Just need to keep the edge of the hole away from the wave washer. Got an old strip socket holder I'll cut up & drill. Cheaper than a nose pour mould for good bases.

 

[popper]

1/4 by 28. Found a nice shouldered bronze bushing for under the sprue screw. Need longer screw. Getting Tom to make me a 31-142D GC version for the BO. Got a scrap small steel channel I'll use for the tool, notch for the stud and 1/4" bolt. Actually works better if I reverse the handles - I can even dump right into the sauce pan sprue catcher. I'll fill the channel partly with lead and it becomes my tapper.

 

[popper]

Got the bushing cut down and grub screw installed. I can open with long screwdriver or about anything. Drop sprue right into the pot if I choose. Hole in the 'finger' came that way.

 

[Cherokee]

Looks good "popper".
Accurate's 5 cavity mold sprue plate is predrilled so you can add the Lee 6 cavity lever parts if you want to - and I have. Works great.

 

[popper]

Filled the channel with lead, poured into a cold mould and cut the sprue, no problem. Now I have a handle knocker and sprue cutter tool in one. Even with leather gloves my fingers get hot opening the sprue plate. Can't pull hot dishes from the washer, too hot. She says I got wussy hands.

 

[popper]

Changing from A/C eco oil back to 2 stroke. Acetone, kerosine, solvents don't touch the cooked on stuff. Tooth paste and hours scrubbing got most off that Al mould. Stuff builds up and acts like phenolic (bakelite) resin, builds up and clogs the vents. Kinda like overcooked HiTek.
edit: cast a bunch this morning, PB. Worked fine, mould works good after I got it cleaned. Will use a 1/2" square hardwood 'stick' to open, tapper I made is too unwieldy, changing from left to right hand to tap. Had to re-adjust plate screw tension when hot - base looks great - without magnification no divot at all. No hot fingers.