Synthetic/conventional 2 stroke oil

John

Active Member
I keep finding the small 2 ox bottles of synthetic 2 stroke oil for 99 cents and have never had to try the conventional stuff.
 

John

Active Member
Dale, My local ace hardware has them on sale at least once a year. My best source is Rocky Mountain Supply, Dillon Montana a Cenex dealer, though any good logging supply house should have them. Ace branded from Ace and I will have to check on the other.
 

Dale53

Active Member
John;
Thanks for the information. There are plenty of Ace stores in this area. I'll have to pick up a couple of bottles.

Dale53
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I never get lead smears with Bullplate lube when glove cutting and if I have a mold
with some lead smears, using Bullplate and casting with it for a while removes the
existing lead smears. No idea how it works, but it sure does.
 

minmax

Active Member
Has anyone adked Al at NOE, what his lube is? I have several that I got as add on's, the last few times i bought molds.
I have yet to use it. I'm still using the syn. 2 stroke that I opened last year.
I did look for Ester oil this spring, all my local auto supply store had was the kind with dye.
I heard it works, but stains your molds.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
The dye, or oil possibly, does leave a brown color on the mould over time. It is quite obvious on Al moulds, not so much on iron. My feeling to a large extent is so what? It is purely cosmetic. Might be an issue if I was going to sell a mould but I have never sold a mould.
 

quicksylver

Well-Known Member
MY 2C ...I use Al's "stuff".
I like the smell, seems to work great, I put a drop on the sprue extension then wipe the back of the plate when it is warm with a Q-tip.
Solved all my problems.
'Cousre have to buy it as an "add on" too.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
NOE sells bullplate.

some of my molds look horrible from the duct tape on my gloves melting onto them a little bit.
I started using nickel based anti-sieze for some reason waay back when [I think it was in frustration with an aluminum mold I just cut a gall into] and have never bothered to try anything else.
I just apply with a Q-tip same as the other oils and it works.
 

Farmerjim

Active Member
Anti-seize for the brand new mold then syn 2 cycle. I find the anti-seize gets too thick if you keep using it. Liquid Wrench L512 dry spray also works and works in the cavities as a release agent.
 

KHornet

Well-Known Member
Gitting in late on this thread. Couple of weeks ago I emptied a bottle of Bull Plate, when I was casting in my garage. Had some 2 stroke for the snow blower in the garage so I tried it. Worked ok for me, but not quite as well I think as Bullplate. So, I will stay with Bullplate, as I had a full bottle in my gun room but wanted to try the 2 stroke as it had been mentioned here. Am kind of old school, and I started using Bullplate when he first put it on the market, so if it works, I don't fix it!
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
Greetings
Some years back Bullshop had a special on the Blue lube so I bought 3 quarts. I think my grandkids will be using it. Amazing stuff. Slicker than anything I have used.
Mike in Peru
 

James W. Miner

Active Member
I ruined engines with some oils. Stihl synthetic worst to plug exhausts. Froze rings solid. I found Opty 2 and troubles went away. It is blue like Bull shop and might be the same. It comes in a little packet for 1 gallon of gas.
 

300BLK

Well-Known Member
Rapine Mold Prep was colloidal graphite in alcohol. I might have a partial bottle here, but using a synthetic 2-stroke oil afterwards makes a mess. Bullplate seemed to be Amsoil Sabre. I ran some Sabre mixed 50/50 with some other synthetic blends and straight up in my saws, and never had an issue. I MILL with my saws, and have made cuts that took 2 tanks and nearly 40 minutes without causing a problem to my Husky 394. Sabre makes less smoke and smell than the synthetic blends, but don't even think about running it 100-1. 50-1 is safe, and 40-1 is better in milling applications. I NEED to get a case of Sabre for an anticipated timber frame project.
 

Texas Hillbilly

Active Member
I use what ever Tim puts into his pens works better than Bull plate but I've tried a couple others over the years these little pens are handy.works great for brass,iron,and aluminum.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I don't know for sure but I bet those lube pens are filled with a dye free Ester 100 AC oil.

So many things can work. I use what I use because I have it on hand.

What I always wonder is how the heck I managed for so long without anything? Might be why I have some older Lee moulds with lots of galling on the top surface?
 

300BLK

Well-Known Member
For years I relied upon graphiting the underside of the sprue cutter, or spraying said surface with WD40 while in process of casting. I found LBTs colloidal grapihite in beeswax sticks made an ugly mess.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I think graphite in alcohol would work quite well.
 

Texas Hillbilly

Active Member
I don't know for sure but I bet those lube pens are filled with a dye free Ester 100 AC oil.

So many things can work. I use what I use because I have it on hand.

What I always wonder is how the heck I managed for so long without anything? Might be why I have some older Lee moulds with lots of galling on the top surface?

Chould be but it's thinner than the Ester oil I've used in the past?? I still use Ester oil with my drill press works great as a cutting oil to.