Thought you guys would enjoy this

[RBHarter]

In the past , my folks having been through several brands , it was cheaper to buy a multi tool package deal than 2 new batteries .

Out west there are places that will replace the cells in a pack but it's as much as new batteries in most cases and only a little more depending on the pack to replace the tool .

That brings you to OM sourcing and factory direct from the Ning Po battery works Ho Che Wong China . It's amazing the stuff available that is direct fit and as good as OM or is actually OM parts . (Som Ting Wong gave me the names and location , just cute sad satire names )

 

[Hawk]

I've got six, 18 volt DeWalt tools. They are great, except buy replacement batteries.
Dewalt went to the 20 volt battery and the 18 volt replacement battery packs are high than a cats a$$.
Planned obsolescence!

 

[Rick]

I bought a two pack battery replacement for 18 volt DeWalt last summer at Lowes on sale. They went to the 20v right after I bought their 18v shop radio. I figure by the time I need to replace batteries again they won't even offer the 18v any more. I can't convince myself that 20v is all that much better than 18v making it nothing more than a scam to get you to buy all the tools all over again. If the time comes I can no longer get the 18v batteries I'll thank them for their cleverness by buying new tools of a different brand.

 

[Brad]

I figure on buying a whole new setup every 5-7 years. Might go 10 if things really work out well. Cheaper to buy all new than to get replacement batteries quite often.

 

[Rick]

I dunno bout that Brad. The two battery pack was like $80 on sale for $60. Not too many of those tools your gonna buy for $60.

 

[Ian]

Ryobi owns the market on combo tool packs and affordable Li batteries. I built our house almost entirely with Ni-Cad Ryobi and learned to crack the battery packs to replace bad cells. Now I'm using their Li tools and find the drills are much improved. Li packs get restored periodically with a stick welder. DeWilt impact drivers are much stronger than the new Ryobi ones, even at 18v, so I still use the old blue Ryobi drivers with Li batteries for tough jobs.

 

[Bret4207]

I'm telling ya guys, someone of us geniuses needs to invent an adapter that will allow any brand batt to mate up with any brand tool. All we're talking is a 2 piece system where Part #1 that fits batt "A" and Part#2 fits tool brand "B" and the 2 pieces have a mating surface that connect the proper circuit. Sell the pieces for $5 or 6 bucks each and make a zillion dollah$$$. I've run old tools from 6 volt to 12 volts on a lamp cord and alligator clip adapter. I'm certain those same types of tools would run on 18 or 20v regardless of their original voltage design.

 

[Hawk]

They have 18 volt to 20 volt adapters for the DeWalts.
You get the adapter and two 20 volt batteries for $149. Then you have to buy a new charger for the 20 volt batteries for $75.
The 20 volt batteries are Li-Ion. The old 18V are Ni-Cad.
I bought a Li-Ion replacement for the DeWalt. It has worked very well. You just have to make sure you have a Li-Ion charger for it.

Energup Upgraded 5.0Ah Replacement for DeWalt 18v Battery DeWalt DE9039 DE9095 DE9096 DE9098 DW9095 DW9096 DW9098 DE9503 DC9096 DC9099 DC9182 Dewalt 18v Lithium ion Battery - - Amazon.com

Energup Upgraded 5.0Ah Replacement for DeWalt 18v Battery DeWalt DE9039 DE9095 DE9096 DE9098 DW9095 DW9096 DW9098 DE9503 DC9096 DC9099 DC9182 Dewalt 18v Lithium ion Battery - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

It's lighter than the original, but seems to last as long.
I used the crap out of my DeWalts.

 

[Pistolero]

I really try to avoid the battery scam tools, but do need at least a drill to work on the bridge and such
without hauling the generator down there to the creek.

But I really prefer to plug a cord into a wall or extension and not worry about the damned batteries.

Battery powered tools and battery powered cars are both really expensive "solutions" that only make
any real sense in narrow niche applications with limited appeal, IMO.

 

[Brad]

I can agree with that in most cases Bill. A cordless drill is the one I can’t go without. I rarely drill holes with mine but it drives a ton of screws.

 

[Pistolero]

Yes, but I also use a corded drill with a slip clutch for that (screws) , too. I try to only use battery tools where
running the cord is impossible or very inconvenient, like in the attic doing the new kitchen vent stack
or at my bridge, 250 yds from power.

Did you see the message on the conversation on the DW?

Bill

 

[Hawk]

Ive got a variable speed cordless impact screw driver that I will never give up.
I use it as a drill, screw driver and power supply for my case trimming devices.

 

[Ian]

I drove 175 lbs of 3" coated deck screws with just two Ryobi impact drivers. First one still works but got weak after about 125 lbs.

As far as adapters go, part of the problem is some tools use battery monitoring and control circuitry inside the tool itself, while others are inside the battery.

When you can buy a very good drill, impact driver, charger, and two batteries that will last a long time and withstand a lot of use for a $100 bill, I don't see a downside.

 

[waco]

Had a nice Porter Cable Drill/Driver set until I drove away from camp with said Driver sitting on the bumper....

 

[Hawk]

Does anyone know where to get Versapak batteries or rebuildt facsimiles?
I've got several skil screwdrivers that I would like to get back in action.

 

[Rally]

Yes, but I also use a corded drill with a slip clutch for that (screws) , too. I try to only use battery tools where
running the cord is impossible or very inconvenient, like in the attic doing the new kitchen vent stack
or at my bridge, 250 yds from power.

Did you see the message on the conversation on the DW?

Bill

Have you ever cut rafter tails with a corded skill saw. I’m pretty sure the person who first thought of a cordless skill saw was a framer.
I started with B&D professional series, Milwaukee, Dewalt, and now Ridgid. Ridgid has the best warranty out there, and they run lots of Xmas specials for combo packs.
Just about every bad memory I have of doing carpentry for a living, involves corded tools and chasing cords in mud. There should be a law against having corded tools on a job site imo. Lol

 

[Bret4207]

Does anyone know where to get Versapak batteries or rebuildt facsimiles?
I've got several skil screwdrivers that I would like to get back in action.

Do a search, gotta be someone someplace with them. Try Ebay too.

 

[Bret4207]

I'm in the group that grudgingly uses cordless stuff. I got burnt bad buying Porter Cable thinking it was the same company that built the saws I used in the 70's and 80's. It's not. It's junk. And no offense to anyone, but Ryobi is about the same judging by the ones I've owned. Maybe they make a different line I never saw. Makita is tops in my book, follwed by Milwaukee (don't own any though) and then Dewalt and after that it's a toss up. As long as I can drive screws and have the 1/4" impact for taking stuff apart (think chainsaws) and driving 8" Timber loc type lag screws I'm happy. Drilling with a cordless is a secondary use for me, it's drivng screws, bolts and lags. As far as cordless saws, I've only used Porter Cable and they just suck. I cannot imagine trying to use a cordless saw on a job site. And how do you lower a saw 2 stories with out a good long lead cord? Modern times, I am a dinosaur.

 

[KeithB]

We use a cordless 3/8" drill that we got for about $80 (w/2 batteries) from Harbor Freight to debur parts by chucking up various carbide burs, countersinks, etc. We have high speed air grinders of all sizes but the variable (slow) speed/high torque of a cordless drill sometimes works better. All our corded tools (large and small face grinders, circular saw, and a couple other drill motors old and new) are Milwaukee, rugged but heavy.

Someone mentioned buying all new cordless tools every few years, and there is some logic in that I think. It seems like the better class of newer tools are lighter, have batteries that last longer, and offer other improved features. It's annoying and frustrating sometimes, but I think if you look at the cost per use you get your money's worth out of a lot of the newer tools.

I've sort of decided that from now on I plan to treat most cordless tools as exactly what they are - disposable devices with a limited useful life, watch out HF here I come!

It's all a matter of context in a way. $80 can be a big expense to someone on a fixed income, but when I spend more than that on two end mills that I will wear out in a week, spending a tax deductible $80 for a useful tool that will last at least a year is a cheap investment for us.

 

[KeithB]

By the way, lower a saw by using a rope, not the power cord. I hope you were kidding Bret