Ways to consistently increase pressure for gallery loads

BHuij

Active Member
Basically a giant collection of forums (called “subreddits”) on any imaginable topic. I asked specifically on the 300BLK subreddit.
 

BHuij

Active Member
I took some time today and really gave the barrel the best cleaning I could to get out any possible copper fouling. I used Sweet's 7.62 solvent which is 5% ammonia. Gave it a 5 minute soak, scrubbed it out with a nylon bore brush, then ran dry patches on a jag. The first couple came out a little gray and black, presumably powder fouling. Didn't see any blue or green. Just to be safe, I repeated the 5 minute soak with another shot of the stuff and then scrubbed with a bronze bore brush and ran dry patches. This time they basically just came out clean. Still no blue or green. I don't think copper fouling is affecting my accuracy. Bore looks shiny and clean all the way down. No hint of copper, lead, or other fouling.

While I was cleaning, I decided to see if I had bad mating surfaces between my flash hider and muzzle as detailed in post #73 on this thread. It looks weird to me, but I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking at. I took some pictures so you more experienced folks can take a look. The muzzle end of the barrel does not look smooth or square where it contacts the flash hider, and the inside of the flash hider similarly looks like it has some weird loose chunks of something in it. Doesn't seem right to me, am I crazy here?

IMG_0765.jpgIMG_0766.jpgIMG_0767.jpgIMG_0769.jpgIMG_0770.jpg
 

BHuij

Active Member
Only way it could be getting in there is if there’s a gap between the end of the barrel and the start of the flash hider. Could this be enough to mess up my accuracy? Guess the easiest way to find out would be to clean it out really well and try shooting again.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Yep that's the rebounding fouling , antimony , powder fouling crud that took me from 2" and closing to 4" and flyers for no call . Get someone with a lathe to make the shoulder go away in the FH or a wedding band thread protector . That will get you back in business .
 

BHuij

Active Member
Yep that's the rebounding fouling , antimony , powder fouling crud that took me from 2" and closing to 4" and flyers for no call . Get someone with a lathe to make the shoulder go away in the FH or a wedding band thread protector . That will get you back in business .

Thread protector basically acts as a spacer to fill up the gap I’m assuming? Where might I find one that’s the right dimensions?
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
There are several types some set up a a similar situation to what you have with the gap between the FH shoulder and the muzzle the other type doesn't have a muzzle over edge typically about 3-5 thread lengths longer than the threaded shoulder .
1/2-20 for 223/556 and 5/8-20(?) for 30 cal . I have one of the larger ones but not certain about it .
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Thread protector is just to protect threads. Try without the fash hider, they just collect junk.
 

BHuij

Active Member
I'm finding a lot of thread protectors marketed for AR-15s that are 1/2-28 pitch. You sure it's 1/2-20?
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
1/2-28 should be correct for a 223 barrel. 5/8-24 is normally used on 30 cal. barrels. There are always exceptions though, so be alert!
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
A flash hider will never increase accuracy. At best it can be kept from harming accuracy, if installed wrong it can have a massive detrimental effect on accuracy.

That flash hider is very poorly installed. I would shoot without it.
 

BHuij

Active Member
Yep, ordered thread covers instead. I don't need a flash hider, especially one that is collecting lead.
 

Ian

Notorious member
It's lead. Bore looks fine, now you know you have a good barrel if Sweets barely got any copper after 100 rounds. Scrape off all that lead and carbon, being careful not to damage the crown.
 

BHuij

Active Member
That’s the plan. I’m encouraged that I found something obviously wrong that’s an easy fix. We’ll see how much difference it was making next time I make it to the range.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
about the only way to get lead to flow and come out like that is to have a very high muzzle pressure, or to exceed the leads ability to grip the rifling at the start of the journey.
usually you see a grey-white poof of smoke that's pretty distinctive to the bluish powder smoke.
the cloud even is a different shape.