WFT Insert(s)

Gary

SE Kansas
Anyone making their own inserts? It looks simple enough, I just need the right ID dimensions and I should be able to get those from actual brass measurements.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Not owning one I have never considered it?
I have wondered about making case holders for my Wilson trimmer.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I was on the warpath a few weeks ago looking at all the various and sundry three-way trimmers, ended up finding major design issues with all of them except for the RCBS and Forster units that fit their case trimmers. Will probably go with the Forster unit and just use it on my old bean-powered case trimmer.

If I were to design a three-way unit I'd make the cutters like Forster does and use two ball bearings in the housing instead of one. It's an engineering no-no to side load deep ball bearings, and a double no-no to use only one, particularly if the cutting head has no pilot and depends on precise case alignment for the one-piece, vee-notch cutter to evenly swipe around the case mouth.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
I have three of the WFT's , only one takes the inserts. Ian, it's not rocket science and certainly not necessarily a "precise" exercise. Case lengths are usually listed as within a acceptable range of length, and that's what I shoot for. I trimmed some 223 today with the WFT and they were ALL within .0015, way more precise than I'd expected. I got the insert removed and took all the "generic" measurements needed to cut to size, but the tricky measurements will be for cutting the ID to exacting size for whichever caliber I choose. Saw a utube video of a insert made with a 3D printer. Looked good and worked great and the color was Navy Blue.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Na mine are all caliber family specific. No swapping inserts for me. Neat idea if you can pull it off.

The wft is very accurate. I love mine. Consistent to .001 if you do your part, & holds .002 even when hurried. A 3 way it is not though. A little trick for increased consistency, once the cutting stops & the bushing quits spinning, turn the case around & then back to the original position all in one motion. Nice square consistent cuts are the reward.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Looks like they would all be family specific, 243, 308, 358 Win all use same insert.

Critical dimension isn't he neck diameter as much as it is the shoulder angle. The trim length is set off the shoulder so having proper contact with the shoulder is important.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
I agree with Brad about the shoulder angle and SAAMI lists that stat on all their schematics. I'm in the process of getting the correct drill bit (diameter and angle) and once that's achieved I will turn the round stock (6061 AL) to size. Also agree with Freebullet about the proper use of the tool. I have two of the generation 1 WFT's and recently bought the generation 2 and after popping out the insert it appears they could easily be made. I'm at least going to give it a try with the 6061 (bought 4' of ¾") shipped for$15, that would make approx. 40 inserts for ½ the cost of ONE insert. Plus look at all the fun I'll have with the Lathe.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
OK, got my 6061 AL this morning and of course the stock is just a smidge to large to go through the chuck. I cut off a 2" piece and gave it a go. Insert is for 30-30 and so far so good. Cleaned up the OD of the stock and got it faced; turned to .735" and then the OD of the body, .6235". Drilled out the OD neck of the brass then the OD of the shoulder (about ¼" back from the shoulder) . Made a relief for the O-ring and dressed with a file and cut it off. Press fits very snug into the bearing of the WFT. Now all I have to do is set the cutter to the correct depth to give the brass a SAAMI OAL.
This worked out quite well and I will be making more bushings for other calibers as the need arises. Side note: it seemed to take more time finding the right fractional bit(s) to use.
 

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Ian

Notorious member
You could also set your compound to the shoulder angle and cut it with a small boring bar, then swing it to half that angle and knock the sharp corner off the neck/shoulder junction so the brass will seat properly.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I would do what Ian mentioned.

Another advantage to boring the shoulder section is that you get a round hole, that is soemthing a drill will never give you. Drill to remove 80-90% of the material then bore to final size.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Working down inside a two-diameter hole with a boring bar or shaping tool will give you an opportunity to practice what I like to call "instrument navigation".
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Also a great time to learn to grind a boring bar and set the height properly.
 
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Gary

SE Kansas
Hey, the dang thing works!! Set the trimmer for 30-30 brass and I did 10 and they were all within .002" . Now to find another caliber to make an insert and get busy.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Got a .308 (first one I ever owned) and man I really like the caliber as well as the gun. NOW, to practice that "instrument navigation" thing Ian talked about. BTW, what's the best very small boring bar?
 

Ian

Notorious member
Just remember your cross slide and compound leadscrews are probably metric (mine are) so if you dial in .040" you're only going to get .0394" of travel. This messed me up pretty good when cutting a bullet mould cavity to depth based on only the compound dial, like ten thousandths messed up.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Thanks again Ian; still sketchy on the small boring bar, I don't have anything that small.