What Difference Does The Quench Water Temperature Make?

Bill

Active Member
No problem Yodog, the bullets are already cast, about six months ago, a friend and I ran another test at the end of a casting session where we delayed the drop time, some as soon as the spru hardened, another batch after a 10 count, then some after a 30 count, after testing the next morning we could not tell a difference, I wish I would have extended the test on out for a week or so. I was heat treating my match bullets back then and the test swayed me back to water dropping.

Bill
 

Bill

Active Member
Well, it's been a week, the 18s are up to 21, the 22s (lce water) are up to 28 bhn. I used the same bullets by using the other side of the meplat, but I can file off the dimples and retest in another week. Still can tell no difference between the room temp water and the 100 degree water.

Bill
 

Ian

Notorious member
I get pretty consistent results from water-quenching straight from the mould, but I'm ruthless about what goes in the water. If one sticks and needs a second whack, it goes on the towel instead. Proof is in the shooting and it works for me.
 

Bill

Active Member
Well, it's been about two weeks, the 28s are down a couple and the 22s are up a couple they are all coming together, it seem my alloy is not very stable (more tin than antimony) maybe, good enough for me anyway I shoot mostly air cooled at around 1100 fps

Bill
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
over tinned is weird.
high tin alloys react very different to water dropping too, I'm pretty convinced that Tin retards the water dropping effects.
 

Sig556r

Active Member
Nice discussion guys, learning a lot about quenching bare lead...
How does this equate to PC bullets outta 400F oven?
Seen some just aircool while others drop them in water.
I'm using cheap HF PC & regular toaster oven
Appreciate your feedback, TIA
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Welcome to the forum Enrick, :D

Depends on what you mean by "bare lead". If your referring to pure lead it won't effect it at all. If you have Pb/Sb alloy that is not heat treated and you air cool your PC bullets won't matter much. If your bullet are heat treated and you air cool after PC you will get some annealing, i.e. softer than your heat treated bullets.
 

Sig556r

Active Member
Welcome to the forum Enrick, :D

Depends on what you mean by "bare lead". If your referring to pure lead it won't effect it at all. If you have Pb/Sb alloy that is not heat treated and you air cool your PC bullets won't matter much. If your bullet are heat treated and you air cool after PC you will get some annealing, i.e. softer than your heat treated bullets.
Thanks Rick...
I drop my cast bullets (mostly WW) in water right from the mold, air-dry, PC, then bake at 400F.
I let them air-cool to be touchable before separating some stuck ones. PC coat looks great.
However, I suspect my toaster oven is heating them up beyond its 400F setting since separating some stuck ones mildly deform few bullets.
Now I'm thinking of dumping them in water outta oven, though may increase bullets sticking together, it may hopefully hardened the PC & outer layer of the alloy...
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I dump my PC bullets into the water because I think it helps set the coating better.
I'm probably wrong in how I do it.

but I stand all of mine up.
turn on the oven [and use an internal thermometer]
when the coat turns 'wet' I set my timer for 22 minutes and monitor the temp.
I don't let it go over 410.
after the cook time I open the oven door and let them sit for a couple of minutes and cool off some, then I dump them in a bucket of water.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
I stand mine up on a hot plate. Cheap ceramic tile with NSAF covered steel plate. Done ~400 (latest batch) and AF is still OK, no stick, a couple tiny/minor tears. Just pick up with pliers and dump in water. Toaster oven goes back in the box & on the shelf. Last batches were DTd light coat, GC applied/sized and then a second DT (humidity is finally low enough it works). Proper size last & done. ~80-90 rifle on the 6" plate. I am seeing a problem when installing non-annealed GC (josh's GC) on the AC alloy. Slight bulge at the front drive band (I tap them on with a hammer). Annealed is no problem. Oh, first bake is 10 min from cold - just enough to get good flow, AC. Second I just leave the hot plate on for 1 hr and then dump in water. No slump or other problems.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The cure temperature of most (not all) coatings runs well into the heat treat temperatures of alloys that we would want to heat treat. PC cure time is based on time and temperature, and is flexible to some degree.

If you wish to avoid annealing already HT bullets, you can reduce your temperature and increase your bake time. If you wish to CAUSE hardening, extend your 400F bake time, maybe bump it a little or back off depending on exactly what you like to do, make sure the bullets are fully heat-soaked, and toss the whole pan/tray/basket into a bucket of water straight from the oven.

Quenching seems to have no effect on my Polyester TGIC powders, good or bad, but under-baking sure has a negative effect. The bullets need to be at "part metal temperature" for the required time. I generally see how long it takes for the flow to get going, then add 12-15 minutes for .22 cal, 18 minutes for .30, and 20-22 minutes for .45s.