“Winchester Red” stock finish.

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
Sometimes when I mention Winchester Red, I get a “What’s that?”. Surely some, if not most, of you know what I mean. For those of you who don’t, it is a stock finish/ color found on some high end Winchester guns.

The finish on my Marlin 336C is an un-exciteing, uninspired dull brown. Kinda like most of the ilk. I want to re-finish the stock in Winchester Red. I have some cherry stain left from when I made my flintlock that might do. I don’t know how to re-finish a stock. I am sure it is different from finishing virgin wood.

I entertain any suggestions from you, the knowledgable and experienced.

Thanks,

Rocky
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Pinkington "Pre 64 Win Red" Spirit stain! Was sold by Brownell's years ago I don't know if it is still available with all the new regulations came from England....The also so an "English Red" that was even nicer....Best stains I ever used! If you were lazy you could apply them right over the existing finish.... To tint the stock ....It was that strong ...it penetrated the finish on most rifles. I'm nursing the last to bottles I have
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Also for a substitute, Behlin's "Solar -Lux" spirit stain in Nutmeg Brown is Excellent at getting the Win Red color on stack and was a heck of a lot cheaper I still use it today. I always bought these stain on line
 

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
I couldn't find Fairtrimmer's at Brownells, but they had Pilkington's (spelling?)
Something came up while searching: it appears that Winchester's color was in the finish not a stain on the wood before the finish was applied. That might make my project more difficult. I don't know if the Marlin 1961 walnut stock was stained or just natural. I would think (I certainly don't know) that I would be more likely to get the result I want by sanding down to remove the present finish, then stain the wood and finish with a non-colored oil finish. I am only guessing here.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Rocky If you use the Pilkington's...Proper spelling thank you!
You will not be disappointed . May of the gun makes put the color stain into the finish so it was an easier application.
Strip the stock; Stain with Pilkington's and apply a good oil finish with rub downs and you will be happy!
If you oil finish is turning out too shinny apply it with a section of "panty hose" ! Don't laugh it works even with "true oil"
 

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response Jim. Brownells is out of stock of both of Pilkington's red stains, Pre-64 and old English. I googled to find another source but could not find one.
On another forum I found a comment from a person that had used Pilkington's and also recommended Herter's stained filler as a good alternative. I ordered some of that from Brownell"s.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Ok as long as this is becoming a current event , this is not a highjacking more of continuance of exploration of oil ......

We have this 1957 M70 Cal 30 of 1906 Springfield that was hunted a lot and shot very little . The metal I can do . The wood I can muddle through mostly cleaning up without messing up the checkering . It's quickly approaching a 5th generation heirloom so it isn't a safe queen in some danger of losing it's collectors value .

The wood just above the steel butt plate needs some careful attention current likely receivers need to have the LOP shortened , also criminal on a collectable but not so much here .

My real question , in the interest of aesthetic and protective finish , is Tru , Tung , or BLO on the unremarkable straight grain war surplus walnut ?
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response Jim. Brownells is out of stock of both of Pilkington's red stains, Pre-64 and old English. I googled to find another source but could not find one.
On another forum I found a comment from a person that had used Pilkington's and also recommended Herter's stained filler as a good alternative. I ordered some of that from Brownell"s.
I was pleased with the results of Brownell's filler. "Original Formula French Red". I refinished a Ruger 77 with a bland, light-colored stock and the filler gave it a tone similar to a pre-64 Win. 70. Really nice, I hope it works for you.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Hi Chris, I thought you had disappeared!

Rich, I'm no expert on stock finishes but I do prefer BLO. Reason is it isn't a varnish, it's a polymerizing oil which soaks INTO the wood rather than building on the surface. It never gets rock hard but is very easy to retouch if it gets scratched or you have to iron out a dent. The drawback is the time it takes to do a stock properly with it. Sand in the first coat a small area at a time using 320 or 400 grit to fill the grain. After that cures (a week or a month, depends on if you put on too much oil), 3-4 drops rubbed in vigorously with your fingers (rub until your fingers get hot) and allowed to cure will be repeated a dozen or more times until you get the sheen you like.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Ian the last time the rifle was out in the field was 2010 . When it came to live with me in 20/20 , purely as a matter of habit , I flipped the bolt open and what should appear but 4 rounds of Winchester brass with CCI LRP , 53.0 I4350 and a #3033 Hornady BTSP .......... My hand loads from the summer of 2010 for Mom to shoot on our last Mulie hunt in NV . I don't think getting in a hurry is going to be a thing .
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
I have used Herter's French Red. I love the color. My kit was probably bought in the 60's. Another thing I have had luck with regarding a reddish tint is Feibings medium red leather dye. Makes a great stain. Mahogany stains have a lot of red in them too.
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
GREAT info! I have two pre-64 '94s that are NOT collectors, just great woods carry shooters. Both stocks need a new finish. Now I know what to look for!

Edit - put the English and Pre-64 on my wish and notify when in stock list!
 
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RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Rich, I'm no expert on stock finishes but I do prefer BLO. Reason is it isn't a varnish, it's a polymerizing oil which soaks INTO the wood rather than building on the surface. It never gets rock hard but is very easy to retouch if it gets scratched or you have to iron out a dent. The drawback is the time it takes to do a stock properly with it. Sand in the first coat a small area at a time using 320 or 400 grit to fill the grain. After that cures (a week or a month, depends on if you put on too much oil), 3-4 drops rubbed in vigorously with your fingers (rub until your fingers get hot) and allowed to cure will be repeated a dozen or more times until you get the sheen you like.
Soak in linseed oil for 12 hours, wipe down. Once a day for a week, wipe down. Once a week for a month, wipe down. Once a month forever, wipe down. Springfield Armory instructions from 1885. FWIW
 

Ben

Moderator
Staff member
BLO NEVER totally dries.
It isn't one of my favorite gun stock finishes.
Place a small puddle of BLO and a varnish on a glass plate. After a week or two pierce the surface of each with your finger nail. The varnish will probably be hard all the way through but the BLO will not.

Ben
 
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RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
BLO NEVER totally dries.
It isn't one of my favorite gun stock finishes.
Place a small puddle of BLO and a varnish on a glass plate. After a week or two pierce the surface of each with your finger nail. The varnish will probably be hard all the way through but the BLO will not.

Ben
Which is why it works so well for military wood stock finishes! It breaths, but repeals rain and snow, holds the fibers of the wood down, and provides a good grip for sweaty hand in a fight. Remember that an Arsenal stock was finished with 60 grit sand paper and meant to be used, not looked at. It is still excellent out here in the desert where the humidity almost never gets to 50%.