7.62x40 WT
- Thread starter Hawk
- Start date
Hawk
Well-Known Member
Josh,
So I assume you're forming your own brass from 5.56 brass.
Are you annealing the brass before or after you form it? Many split necks? I've never annealed brass, but it seems like it might be worth it to reduce losses when forming cases.
I was reading the Bill Wilson accounted for the thinner neck from stretching 5.56 to .30 caliber when he standardized the chamber dimensions for this cartridge.
I've got several thousand LC10 and WCC OFC.
So I assume you're forming your own brass from 5.56 brass.
Are you annealing the brass before or after you form it? Many split necks? I've never annealed brass, but it seems like it might be worth it to reduce losses when forming cases.
I was reading the Bill Wilson accounted for the thinner neck from stretching 5.56 to .30 caliber when he standardized the chamber dimensions for this cartridge.
I've got several thousand LC10 and WCC OFC.
Ian
Notorious member
Nope, if it's the one I'm thinking of I have it and it's WAY too fat on the nose, in fact it won't work in any of my .30-caliber rifles at all.
+1 on spinning on a barrel in no time if the extension is already installed, all you need is the receiver block, internal support, a bench vise, and a wrench that fits the particular barrel nut being used. What's that, about $80 in tools?
Ian
Notorious member
The only reason I crimp BLK subs is to improve ignition. Can't seat hard into the lands due to lack of bolt camming strength in an AR, and with the soft bullets I like .002-3" neck tension is about as much as they can stand. Have to use slow powder for function, so that leaves crimp as one of the few remaining tools to promote combustion efficiency. Otherwise, I'd flatten the bell and call it good.
If you think you really need a crimp and have no groove, just make one with a roll crimp die. No harm at all rolling the case mouth to bite into the middle of a band a little bit.
If you think you really need a crimp and have no groove, just make one with a roll crimp die. No harm at all rolling the case mouth to bite into the middle of a band a little bit.
Missionary
Well-Known Member
Good morning Josh
One option is to resize the nose. I have a caliber 41 mold 265 grains that works perfect in my 414 Supermag Dan Wesson. But the nose is too fat for the 414 SM Contender. So I resize the nose down .003 and it chambers like a champ. It is extra work but beats another custom mold. Plus in one hour I cam resize enough cast noses to last a year.
Mike in Peru
Hawk
Well-Known Member
Got my dies and case gauge today. Still waiting for the barrel to come it.
Gonna form some cases tonight. (I a little excited to finally get started on this)
I expected the case trimming to be a chore, but just removed the handle from my Forster Case Trimmer, put a 5/16"x28 threaded nut on it, chucked up a 1/2" socket in my cordless drill and Shazam!!!
Cut 100 of my PPU 223 cases down like butter.
Cut a 1/2 gallon plastic milk down the side and slipped over the trimmer to block the debris from flying to far.
Worked like a champ.
I don't know how I survived without cordless power tools.
I'm gonna use the PPU brass as Guinea Pigs to cut, form, and anneal (especially anneal) before I waste any of my Lake City 5.56 supply.
I've got to read up on annealing brass. Never have done that, but want to learn.
I'll try a power drill, a socket and a torch and see how that goes. Doesn't jmorris on the other forum sell saw blades to make annealing machines. That might be fun. Just running out of room to store stuff.
Gonna form some cases tonight. (I a little excited to finally get started on this)
I expected the case trimming to be a chore, but just removed the handle from my Forster Case Trimmer, put a 5/16"x28 threaded nut on it, chucked up a 1/2" socket in my cordless drill and Shazam!!!
Cut 100 of my PPU 223 cases down like butter.
Cut a 1/2 gallon plastic milk down the side and slipped over the trimmer to block the debris from flying to far.
Worked like a champ.
I don't know how I survived without cordless power tools.
I'm gonna use the PPU brass as Guinea Pigs to cut, form, and anneal (especially anneal) before I waste any of my Lake City 5.56 supply.
I've got to read up on annealing brass. Never have done that, but want to learn.
I'll try a power drill, a socket and a torch and see how that goes. Doesn't jmorris on the other forum sell saw blades to make annealing machines. That might be fun. Just running out of room to store stuff.
Hawk, here's everything you wanted to know about annealing. He discusses using the annealing machine but also the how & why of annealing is discussed in detail.
Cartridge Case Annealing
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Cartridge Case Annealing
.
Hawk
Well-Known Member
Also, I found some Sierra 150 grain 30-30 flat point bullets that my Dad left me. He sold the 30-30 so I have no use for them.
Would like to use them for fire forming with 296/h110 powder.
I've searched the 66 page thread on AR15's web site, but can't figure how to search threads over 30 days old.
Has anyone used this combo or have a suggested starting load?
Would like to use them for fire forming with 296/h110 powder.
I've searched the 66 page thread on AR15's web site, but can't figure how to search threads over 30 days old.
Has anyone used this combo or have a suggested starting load?
fiver
Well-Known Member
wow a ton of questions.
I have developed a fondness for the Stag line of AR's so of course they got themselves in trouble with the ATF.
the next in line is Armalite and at 1200 bucks they better be good [and they are]
like shooting a bolt gun that flings the brass out for you.
I do have that mold Josh showed earlier and i also have a pile of brass sitting here I'm prepping to load that boolit in.
it's kind of a mini version of the XCB but with some slight changes like longer drive bands and a sloping angle on the front drive band.
it's about a half step closer to the XCB design I wanted Tim to make, but since it's for the 300 type cartridges some concessions had to be made to work in their throat.
it'll get a try in my 7.5 swiss rifles at some point too even if it's just to see how it fits when chambered.
the last question I remember is about the muzzle brakes on the 300's.
I run one on mine, with the faster loads it changed how the little AAC recoils and I could spot my own shots.
it also changes the sound pattern of the rifle making the muzzle noise seem to spread out instead of being directed towards the target.
I have developed a fondness for the Stag line of AR's so of course they got themselves in trouble with the ATF.
the next in line is Armalite and at 1200 bucks they better be good [and they are]
like shooting a bolt gun that flings the brass out for you.
I do have that mold Josh showed earlier and i also have a pile of brass sitting here I'm prepping to load that boolit in.
it's kind of a mini version of the XCB but with some slight changes like longer drive bands and a sloping angle on the front drive band.
it's about a half step closer to the XCB design I wanted Tim to make, but since it's for the 300 type cartridges some concessions had to be made to work in their throat.
it'll get a try in my 7.5 swiss rifles at some point too even if it's just to see how it fits when chambered.
the last question I remember is about the muzzle brakes on the 300's.
I run one on mine, with the faster loads it changed how the little AAC recoils and I could spot my own shots.
it also changes the sound pattern of the rifle making the muzzle noise seem to spread out instead of being directed towards the target.
Ian
Notorious member
I really like my muzzle brake, it's kinda heavy and long but sucks the recoil right out and pretty much eliminates muzzle rise, muzzle flash, and makes it plenty quiet enough to not need hearing protection at all. It was expensive though and required registration and permission from the BATFE.
Muzzle brakes do work, if you think you need one. I highly recommend watching two utoob videos by Jeremy S. where he tests 35 different brakes and rates them. Here's part one:
Muzzle brakes do work, if you think you need one. I highly recommend watching two utoob videos by Jeremy S. where he tests 35 different brakes and rates them. Here's part one: