A bit Strange ......... ? ?

fiver

Well-Known Member
I see no advantage in P/C.
it won't apply evenly enough to help accuracy.
it,,, well, I would make a big mess anyway.
they say it's cleaner in the dies.
I dunno how, I don't get lube in anything but my lube groove [I like one single one]

it's main appeal to me would be if I buy a new lyman mold and want to actually use it in a 40S&W type pistol. [which I don't own either]
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
How does one recognize a 40 S&W "type" pistol? Are those the ones that look like a wok?:)

I don't PC either. The Hi-tek is fine with me and even then I largely use a good old fashioned lube.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
40S&W type pistols are mostly black and plastic, they usually show them on the evening news with the words assault pistol next to or under them.
 
9

9.3X62AL

Guest
A salt pistol or a pepper pistol would be fine on my dinner table.

I think it's time to head for the desert to play with war toys and metal detectors. Thread drift traction coefficient is at the "Wet ice on Teflon" stage here. :)
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
40S&W type pistols are mostly black and plastic, they usually show them on the evening news with the words assault pistol next to or under them.

I'm really old fashioned. I still own no firearm that is or has any component made of plastic or any other man made or synthesized material; they're wood and steel.
 

Ben

Moderator
Staff member
I went to the Birmingham gun show today.
Only 10 % of the firearms in there today met that criteria.

Ben
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
seen the new Ruger American pistol yet?
I think the slide is stainless but they painted it black, I hope this tactiool thing is just a fad like the fast draw cowboy thing was in the late 50's early 60's.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
:oops: jeez AL.
ii read our post and remembered what this thread was actually about.
by just coming in to the last page you'd never guess what the real post was about.
raising my hand [gotta be mostly guilty here]
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Thread drift?

Not possible, fiver and I always stay on topic.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
wait.... topic?
I think the full name is 'hot topic'.
I buy music and skate board stuff there sometimes.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Don't put anything past him, he listens to some pretty wacky music and what not. Fiver is a man who will never cease to surprise me.

image.jpeg

Here is fiver's most recent family photo
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Well geez... you'd think he'd have the capability to post photos then. Maybe I'll send him this phone when my contract is up this summer. All the loading forum servers would crash when he realized how easy posting from a phone is.
Ya just point this gizmo at that gizmo snap a pic & post it.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I'm still trying to figure out what all those little pictures up^^^^^ there do.
and where they go when I hit the post reply button.

I think up stuff I could post pictures of.
then I just keep on doing it and pretty soon I'm done, and nobody still don't care.
I doubt anybody would really care how I make 7.7 jap brass using a 308 trim die for the Dillon trimmer, or care to watch the annealing machine going round and round.
and i can just post measurements of group sizes. [shrug]
casting is boring, reloading is boring, if your doing it right.

you'd lose your dollar, I can still ride a skate board and I was just surfing about 4 weeks ago down in corpus Christi.
none of the kids I work with thought I could do it, they didn't know I lived in California in the late 60's & early 70's.
I don't do no tricks or nuthin but I can still ride a decent wave for a while.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
They get recycled. It saves the site money by recycling the un used little pictures ^^^^^.
But photos are critical, they are the only way to know if you can really do what you say you can do.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
& you'd be surprised how many folks would want to see your jap brass tutorials. I only said a dollar because I knew it was a gamble.:)
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
it cost me a cutter figuring out the brass in the 308 trim die.
but here are the steps.
I use 30-06 milsurp once fired brass [some of it was FA-30]
I de-prime and clean the brass in the wet tumbler.

then.
I first size till the shoulder is about in the same place as a fired case [i neck size to the bottom of the fired case just bumping the shoulder with the die]
then turn the die down another full turn with the stem removed.
run all the lightly lubed cases through the die.
I wipe the area where the shoulder will be formed with a rag to remove 90+% of the lube there.

then I trim in the 308 die by using the shoulder as a stop and set the cutter to trim to saami max length.
then champher the case mouth and try the cases in the rifle and if they fit I don't size again. [they normally do]
I tumble the brass to get the lube off for another hour or so. [dry tumble this time]

then I anneal.
and finally i run the cases through a 308 neck sizer die, prime, and load. [with a medium jacketed load this gently blows the case out to the chambers dimensions]
I use a 180gr home swaged 3115 diameter bullet on top of 36.5 grs of H-4895. [it approximates a 30-30 load but with the heavier bullet]
it's really that simple.

100 cases with none lost in about 3.5 hrs including the cleaning time of a little over 1.5 hrs.
it would be less now [maybe 2.5hrs] but I had to set everything up from scratch the first time, including setting up the anneal time.

I do my 7.65 argie brass the same way.
depending on which rifle I'm doing it for, rifles number-2 and 3 get a second sizing in a different die set.
 

williamwaco

Active Member
William, I suspect these bullets are for 32-20, 30 Carbine etc much more than for say a 30-30.
I Guestimate that group at around less than 3/4
I didn't shoot these at 100 yards, but I thought that they shot pretty good at 50 yards.




By the way, we shot several groups like this today.
It is not a fluke.



The bullets have been run through an H&I sizer at .311, grooves filled with Ben's Red,
then rolled in BLL.

I guestimate that is a little better than "Pretty Good"
 

Texas Hillbilly

Active Member
Ben are any of those bullets nose poured???? I think I talked with the same guy on the other forum as well he was looking at making a line of PC molds as Powder coating helps to hide casting mistakes,he was wanting Lee TL molds to rework I never found the first mold he wanted,and never made a deal with him,but I got a couple small boxes of bullets they are 310as cast. Not sure we are talking about the same guy or not,guess my red flag went up,I'm not sure why,just didn't feel right I guess.

BTW WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO FINISH THAT BOOK WE TALKED ABOUT IN2009????
I'm still watching for it LOL:p
 
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Phineas Bluster

New Member
I recently had a fellow ( new to me, I don't know him ? ? ) contact me " over on the other forum ".
He said he would like to send me a few cast bullets to evaluate.
He said that he'd like for me to shoot them and give him my opinion on their accuracy potential.
They look to be about ideal for my T/C Contender , 32 H&R Mag., but may work in other .30 cal. rifles.

I'm not a powder coat man.
Seems that is what this bullet may be designed for, as it has a crimp ring but no lube groove ?
The fellow said he was a big fan of BLL.
Wanted me to coat these bullets with BLL and test them.
I've coated them and will soon shoot them.

I'll be interested in seeing your comments .
You want to make any predictions on this horse race before the race starts ? ?

Ben









Ben,

In all probability those bullets will shoot just fine if the velocity is kept down under 900-100 F.P.S.

I have been shooting bullets swaged of pure lead using your liquid lube at lower velocities, a .308" diameter 100 grain HBWC in a Marlin 336 at ~600 F.P.S. as well as a .357" 150 grain HBWC at ~800 F.P.S. in many .38 caliber revolvers. Being swaged, these bullets have no grease grooves.

I have found that placing a single cannelure on the bullet seems to reduce the fouling. Without the cannelure there is a tendency for the bullet to leave traces of lead in the bore. If the reduced fouling is due to the extra bit of lube or some mechanical action of the cannelure, I can't say. All I know is that the cannelured bullets will maintain accuracy for the entire shooting session, normally 50 rounds in the rifle and 150-200 rounds in the revolver.

I don't know what the alloy nor BHN of the bullets supplied to you, but with the single crimping groove I would expect results similar to my own.

PB