Adapter for Lee Auto Disk to Dillon powder die

Stonecrusher

Active Member
This is just a little something I worked up a while back, mainly because I am thrifty(cheap). When you start accumulating a lot of toolheads for you Dillon 550, the powder measures start getting a little pricey, at least until I win the Powerball. As of now I have about nine toolheads for the 550 and only four Dillon powdermeasures. So I thought I would like to use my autodisk on the calibers I don't load all the time to avoid having to reset the measures constantly. This is because I am efficient(lazy).

Because I didn't want to buy any more Lee dies, etc, just to use their measure I needed an adapter that would allow me to put the Autodisk on the Dillon powder dies. What I drew up works with the measure and powder dies/funnels I have and doesn't require any adjustment of the powder die height when switching between the Dillon and Lee measure. Tolerances and other things may not allow this to be the case with every combination, but so far it works for me.

Pictures are better than words so here you go. I have also included a dimensioned drawing. The only thing missing off the drawing is the addition of some relief cuts at the bottom of the slot that allow fingers to pull the collar out so it can be removed from the powder die. My slick calloused fingers made this almost impossible before making this alteration.

Both pieces are made from 6061 T6 Aluminum. I made the locking collar a round piece and then milled it down below the halfway point by .015" to .030" to give a little clearance for it to lock onto the die. Also, I wanted to use the powder measure return rod on the 550 so I had to drill the hole on the Lee measure that is there for the toilet bowl chain. A 3/16" drill works well and allows the rod to be pushed in and secure.

Adapter 1.JPG Adapter 2.JPG Adapter 3.JPG

Might be a useful project for you guys with a new lathe. Only thing else needed are two 10-24 x .75" SHCS.
If you don't have a mill you could take the notch all the way out the end using a saw and do the same with the collar.
 

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Ian

Notorious member
Nice. Yet another reminder of how useless my lathe is without a companion vertical mill :D

Are you going to convert the measure to the spring-return style? Sometimes they hang on the return and short-charge a case if there isn't a spring or chain.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Yeah, I got hate mail for sticking a Lyman 55 on top of a Lee turret press, I can only imagine the fallout from this.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I got some hate PM's on another site for showing someone which parts to buy to adapt a standard powder dump to the 450-550 series of presses.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I don't care what anyone else says, that is slick. Great idea and even better execution. That is some fine looking machine work.

People can flame on for all I care. Good ideas are where you find them and brand doesn't matter one hoot.
 

Stonecrusher

Active Member
Thanks. I am not really brand loyal. I am not a big fan of 98% of Lee's stuff, but their auto disks are pretty slick if you can tolerate what the discs drop or you modify.

Ian, you are sick. I suffered with a Pro-1000 for twenty years before going with Dillon. I only primed on it for about an hour before I pronounced their priming system a piece of crap!
 

Ian

Notorious member
:)

I got the only ones Lee ever made that worked. Total fanboy. The armored primer cannon are the sole reason I don't own a blue press.
 

Stonecrusher

Active Member
You should offer to sell them back to Lee so they will know how to make ones that work! Glad you got good ones. My Lee hand primer got quite a workout when I had that press. It too was a good tool.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Ian,snag a cheapy mill drill.Keep it even if you get a BP later.Speaking of which,was using ours to mill some wood for Pistolero this a.m. Understand that BP's are a total loss system on oiling,sooooo one more reason I don't like wood on it is the "drip".We run mobile 1 and like most machine shop equipment,if it ain't wet with lube,you ain't doin it right.

Reckon it aughts to be in the case loading block thread but,well,it ain't..... end mills are the shnitz for accurate holes in wood.But,irrespective of whether it's a mill or DP.....do yourself a favor and rig up a vac system that WORKS,for pullin swarf/chips out.Lessons clean up as well as making cleaner drilling.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Welp,that "would" be what internet nerds like to say.But,I'd raise the BS flag cause,it just ain't the case.Heck,don't even take it out of back gear and it is,all over it!

We can talk smack till the cows come home about speed/feed,chip load BS this and that.It just ain't so.I can even make a case for running "slower" speeds/feeds but until you prove it for yourself.... don't mean poo poo.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Funny. I reached my own conclusion through experience, too. If you want splinters, bit explosions, tear-outs, chatter, and wandering holes, slow her right down, but I suppose if you're using a two-ton BP mill to bore a hole in a chunk of wood, you can get away with murder.
 

Intheshop

Banned
To wit,would love some "new wave" wood pecker explain EXACTLY how my dad could take his #7 Bailey at a,feed rate.... turtle slow,put a finish on a pce of hdwd that you could see your reflection in?

#7,#5,#3....don't matter.Talk ....,or do ....
 

Intheshop

Banned
It is funny....folks "think" they know?But when money is on the table,as in.... we do this for a living,uhhh just sayin.
 

Intheshop

Banned
There's a reason Fine Home Building don't do interviews with old school,multi generational craftsman.The notion being,we aren't moving the craft in a marketable direction?

Soooo,don't confuse carbide tech with HS steel.... ground on spec'd geometry.