Alloy??
- Thread starter johnnyjr
- Start date
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
10.6 BHn
And I use that exact alloy for all non-magnum handgun bullets.
And I use that exact alloy for all non-magnum handgun bullets.
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Might also want to factor in that "Linotype" varies, especially if it's used, actual linotype that's been melted down and recast a dozen times. If it's virgin stuff from some place like Roto-metals, that's different, but unknown stuff is going to vary. Saying what that should produce is getting into guess work.
Joshua
Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
What are you trying to do. Cartridge and desired velocity?
JonB
Halcyon member
I wasn't going to comment here...but what the heck, I rarely hold back my thoughts here (except for politics/religion)...LOL.
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So you just found out your 5:1 alloy is 10.6 BHN. What does that tell you?
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Let me give you my thoughts:
Linotype should be 4/12/84 (4% tin, 12% antimony, and 84% lead)
If you add 4 parts of pure Lead, you'll get about 1/3/96, which is about what COWW(clip-on wheel weights) alloy is, although COWW typically has a little less tin. I mention this because it seems most of the interweb chatter is other people asking what scrap they can blend together to get a alloy near COWW. Much of the talk from many long time casters is in reference to COWW, because that was "thee" most abundant scrap source for many years. and by happen stance, that is also the main reason I think COWW is a good all-around bullet alloy. I've got a bunch of it (more than a ton.) From my experience, it seems to be able to do most things (shooting-wise) adequately. If you want more specific info, or just want to know more, you should read the metallurgy chapters in bullet casting books/manuals. After you get somewhat more of a base knowledge of bullet metallurgy, you'll be answering your own questions, or able to ask more specific questions that the seasoned shooters here can offer, better, more specific answers.
Here are a couple to start with:
.
So you just found out your 5:1 alloy is 10.6 BHN. What does that tell you?
.
Let me give you my thoughts:
Linotype should be 4/12/84 (4% tin, 12% antimony, and 84% lead)
If you add 4 parts of pure Lead, you'll get about 1/3/96, which is about what COWW(clip-on wheel weights) alloy is, although COWW typically has a little less tin. I mention this because it seems most of the interweb chatter is other people asking what scrap they can blend together to get a alloy near COWW. Much of the talk from many long time casters is in reference to COWW, because that was "thee" most abundant scrap source for many years. and by happen stance, that is also the main reason I think COWW is a good all-around bullet alloy. I've got a bunch of it (more than a ton.) From my experience, it seems to be able to do most things (shooting-wise) adequately. If you want more specific info, or just want to know more, you should read the metallurgy chapters in bullet casting books/manuals. After you get somewhat more of a base knowledge of bullet metallurgy, you'll be answering your own questions, or able to ask more specific questions that the seasoned shooters here can offer, better, more specific answers.
Here are a couple to start with:
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
I use 3-1 (pure-lino) for a close approximation to WW alloy. BHN is 14-15 after three weeks, for air cooled bullets. I purchase from Roto-Metals in 5# bars. Three bars of pure and one of linotype, fit's in 20-25# pots. I follow the KISS principal.
I use this alloy for rifle bullets (30 cal & 338 Mag) and my 9 mm's. Practice for all handgun calibers 38, 357, 44 Spl & 44 Mag, 45 LC.
For hunting, I use a softer 20-1 alloy.
I use this alloy for rifle bullets (30 cal & 338 Mag) and my 9 mm's. Practice for all handgun calibers 38, 357, 44 Spl & 44 Mag, 45 LC.
For hunting, I use a softer 20-1 alloy.
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
Forgot to mention, I don't add any tin to the mix. I save it for making the 20-1 alloy. Again KISS, just add a roll of 95/5 solder to 20# of Roto-Metals pure.
johnnyjr
Well-Known Member
It's from roto metal
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Then you don't have to worry about it being depleted. The formulas available should give pretty much what you'd expect. Never had the privilige of working with "new" alloy myself!
Dusty Bannister
Well-Known Member
You might keep in mind when buying linotype from an individual that another factor in a diluted value of Linotype is when a person buys scrap linotype, then melts and pours into casting sized ingots and offers that for sale. If the spacers (which can be of about any lead alloy) are not melted separately, then the linotype casting ingots are diluted more than just through normal use.
johnnyjr
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm going to be using with gas checks of course. If I get a little leading,so be it. Still waiting on the weather. The older I get the more sensitive I am to the cold. Oh well,such is life.. have a beautiful day people.