I haven't been casting bullets very long and have only used copper gas checks. I have only used bullets that I've made that have been powder coated then gas checked. I recently had a guy in California build a .30 and .22 caliber gas check tools. I was wondering if the aluminum gas check would work as good as the copper with scraping the barrel free of any lead deposits?
Aluminum or Copper Gas Checks ( Which is Best)
- Thread starter stlg67
- Start date
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Well, IMO a GC doesn't scrape the barrel free of any lead deposits. Not very much anyway. What it does do is strengthen the base, maybe square the base up a bit if applied right and resist pressure more than lead alloy, all which contribute to not getting your barrel leaded up in the first place. I've never used alum GC's but I've never heard any stories of them harming a barrel either. As long as they fit right, they may well work fine for you.
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
We have shooters at the club that use both alum and copper gas checks. In 30 years of shooting at that same club, I have yet to hear a conversation comparing the merits of the two different materials. And shooters just love to argue about what works better.
A gas check is just that, a device that seals behind the bullet to prevent gas cutting. I've never heard of a gas check also being useful for scraping lead deposits out of a barrel. Not that it would not do that. But I struggle with that being an advantage. And to be honest, if you have lead deposits that need to be scraped out , you have an issue that you need to correct.
And since you use powder coated bullets, if you have lead deposits, you really have something special going on.
A gas check is just that, a device that seals behind the bullet to prevent gas cutting. I've never heard of a gas check also being useful for scraping lead deposits out of a barrel. Not that it would not do that. But I struggle with that being an advantage. And to be honest, if you have lead deposits that need to be scraped out , you have an issue that you need to correct.
And since you use powder coated bullets, if you have lead deposits, you really have something special going on.
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
Do you make your own out of old beer/soda cans?
Rick H
Well-Known Member
I have used both copper and aluminum on my 44 Mag. rifle bullets (235Gr. NOE) I like the look of the hornady copper checks better (sharper edge) than the aluminum and they weigh just a bit more but............I don't see any difference on the target. None. I will use the cheaper aluminum checks once the copper are gone.
Mine are powder coated and then checked.
Mine are powder coated and then checked.
Missionary
Well-Known Member
Another aluminum user and they work fine.
JonB
Halcyon member
The Best GC is the one that fits the bullet base the best and crimps/sizes on squarely.
Making your own GCs:
I have a FCIII gas check maker for 22 cal.
I've used lithograph plate alum (.008") which works pretty good,
but last year I bought some of China's finest .008" copper (4"x40" roll) and it seems to form better
and is reasonably priced.
If you search ebay "99.9% Pure Copper Cu Metal Sheet Foil Plate Strip 0.2mm x 100mm x 1000mm"
that is what I bought for $8 a roll and typically get 1250 GCs per roll. Shipping was only $2, but it took 3 weeks.
...not sure if it's still this cheap?
Here is a photo of a 22 cal bullet with my .008 lith-plate GC
Making your own GCs:
I have a FCIII gas check maker for 22 cal.
I've used lithograph plate alum (.008") which works pretty good,
but last year I bought some of China's finest .008" copper (4"x40" roll) and it seems to form better
and is reasonably priced.
If you search ebay "99.9% Pure Copper Cu Metal Sheet Foil Plate Strip 0.2mm x 100mm x 1000mm"
that is what I bought for $8 a roll and typically get 1250 GCs per roll. Shipping was only $2, but it took 3 weeks.
...not sure if it's still this cheap?
Here is a photo of a 22 cal bullet with my .008 lith-plate GC
Last edited:
Matt
Active Member
I don’t think aluminum or copper or guilding metal gas checks scrape lead out of a barrel. I think they strengthen the bullet base and help seal the bore preventing powder gas from escaping past the bullet and depositing lead in the bore.
I recently purchased a .30 caliber gas check maker from PatMarlins. It’s made to make gas checks out of copper or aluminum that is .014” thick (almost four times thicker than soda cans)
I purchased the recommended aluminum flashing and have shot about 600 of the aluminum gas checks. In general I’ve found the aluminum gas checks allow groups about .10” smaller that Hornady gas checks. Over the weekend I had my first opposite result. In a .308 comparing aluminun v. copper checks on the Lee 312160 TL bullet. Using the bullets as cast with a coat of 45-45-10 tumble lube groups were smaller with the copper check. Conditions were poor, hot and windy with lots of mirage and dust. I’m going to re-shoot this test to see if the result is the same. I’m very happy with making my own aluminum gas checks. The tool was just over $115 and the flashing was $35.The tool is a joy to use. That $35 roll of flashing will make almost 10,000 gas checks.
I have no experience with soda aluminum checks but am suspicious of the utility of such checks on bullets with das check shanks. The material is too thin to fit correctly.
Below is a selection of bullets with Hornady and home made PatMarlins aluminum gas checks.
Still can’t orient photos correctly!
I recently purchased a .30 caliber gas check maker from PatMarlins. It’s made to make gas checks out of copper or aluminum that is .014” thick (almost four times thicker than soda cans)
I purchased the recommended aluminum flashing and have shot about 600 of the aluminum gas checks. In general I’ve found the aluminum gas checks allow groups about .10” smaller that Hornady gas checks. Over the weekend I had my first opposite result. In a .308 comparing aluminun v. copper checks on the Lee 312160 TL bullet. Using the bullets as cast with a coat of 45-45-10 tumble lube groups were smaller with the copper check. Conditions were poor, hot and windy with lots of mirage and dust. I’m going to re-shoot this test to see if the result is the same. I’m very happy with making my own aluminum gas checks. The tool was just over $115 and the flashing was $35.The tool is a joy to use. That $35 roll of flashing will make almost 10,000 gas checks.
I have no experience with soda aluminum checks but am suspicious of the utility of such checks on bullets with das check shanks. The material is too thin to fit correctly.
Below is a selection of bullets with Hornady and home made PatMarlins aluminum gas checks.
Still can’t orient photos correctly!
Attachments
Spindrift
Well-Known Member
I make my own gas checks for several calibers, both regular gas checks and PB gas checks. I make my checks from different aluminum sources, as one of the advantages of making your own is that you can adapt the thickness of the material. Different calibers, and sometimes different mould makers, can have different preferences regarding thickness.
I’ve never done a proper comparative test between aluminum and copper checks. But my impression is, there is no significant difference.
There is, however, an advantage to home made alu checks, compared to commercial alu checks. The home-made have small burrs around the edge that bite into the shank, they stick better. Commercial alu checks sometimes fall of during my coating process.
I’ve never done a proper comparative test between aluminum and copper checks. But my impression is, there is no significant difference.
There is, however, an advantage to home made alu checks, compared to commercial alu checks. The home-made have small burrs around the edge that bite into the shank, they stick better. Commercial alu checks sometimes fall of during my coating process.
Hawk
Well-Known Member
I make mine from Miller Lite beer cans, the kind with the screw on lids. I do drink Miller Lite, but am always able to find several in the trash cans as I play golf.
These cans seem to be a little thicker, make better checks that grip my plain base bullets and won't tear when being pressed on.
My 2 cents.
These cans seem to be a little thicker, make better checks that grip my plain base bullets and won't tear when being pressed on.
My 2 cents.
I tried some Al GCs, didn't like them much. Length of cup varied a lot. Al tends to stress crack at sharp corners easier than copper. I have 'cleaned' lead from barrel with GC loads, need some space above the check to 'collect' it. The hornady half jacket bullets do a real good job.
I haven't made any yet, still have been using some Sages that I bought on .30 and .22 calibers, they are copper gas checks. I'm fixing to start making some, that was kind of what I meant to say at the start but I didn't explain myself that good. I was just wanting to make sure the aluminum gas checks wouldn't cause any issues and from what I have read from you gentlemen, they will probably work just fine. I figured on the aluminum, I would get that aluminum flashing that is .014" (Ameri Max) from the hardware store and start using it. I seen that some people that make their own gas checks have been using this type of flashing.
RBHarter
West Central AR
I don't know from spit . I used both . I've read tests several times that one produced better groups than the other .
I wondered if copper bonded to lead in a barrel why we would use copper gas checks . Then asked why they didn't cause leading.
Then I learned that aluminum gas checks would leave deposits that would oxidize and because aluminum oxide is used for sandpaper and will destroy your barrel in like 7 shots .
I use both with gobs of grease and dabs of wax so far I haven't caused leading or sanded a barrel down . But I'm such a challenged spend thrift I learned to paper patch to avoid buying gas checks . My foreseeable future says I don't need a tool to make them as I can buy more than I'll use for about half of the tool cost .
I wondered if copper bonded to lead in a barrel why we would use copper gas checks . Then asked why they didn't cause leading.
Then I learned that aluminum gas checks would leave deposits that would oxidize and because aluminum oxide is used for sandpaper and will destroy your barrel in like 7 shots .
I use both with gobs of grease and dabs of wax so far I haven't caused leading or sanded a barrel down . But I'm such a challenged spend thrift I learned to paper patch to avoid buying gas checks . My foreseeable future says I don't need a tool to make them as I can buy more than I'll use for about half of the tool cost .
L Ross
Well-Known Member
Full ones probably.
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
There was a one-step GC punch & die called Freechex III. There are YouTube vids of it working and it is truly a slick design. I tried to find the maker, but nowhere to be found on the web. The vid was dated 2010. Latest comment I could find from someone who bought one was in 2014. I suspect they were either not profitable (vid said they were expensive, but did not give a price) or the guy retired/died.
Anyone here have one or know what happened to them?
I'm thinking of making one as a winter therapy project. Challenge will be getting the dimensions right so the GC fits the bullet. Gotta figure spring back and such.
As a sidenote, one of the comments I found was that GC punched from beer/soda cans were used on PB bullets. They are thin enough that you put them on the PB bullet and then run it thru the sizer. Hmmmmm.....
Anyone here have one or know what happened to them?
I'm thinking of making one as a winter therapy project. Challenge will be getting the dimensions right so the GC fits the bullet. Gotta figure spring back and such.
As a sidenote, one of the comments I found was that GC punched from beer/soda cans were used on PB bullets. They are thin enough that you put them on the PB bullet and then run it thru the sizer. Hmmmmm.....
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Try Patmarlins specialty tools, he is still in business.
Didn't want to make his hobby his business with the Freechec.
Didn't want to make his hobby his business with the Freechec.
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
I purchase all my checks from Sage's. The last time I ordered, aluminum checks were $6/1000 cheaper than copper. Not enough savings to switch, IMO. However, the small base gas checks are only offered in aluminum............ if you have a need for that option. I have one MP 44-250 mold that does, otherwise it's copper for my bullets.
Only other aluminum checks (Sage's), I've used are for plain base bullets in a 9mm carbine. They work as advertised. I had a large supply of PB bullets to use up in the carbine. Haven't purchased anymore..........just don't cast PB anymore for the carbine. Have plenty of GC 9mm molds.
I have enough to do, other than making aluminum gas checks. I don't cut patches for cleaning or muzzle loaders, either. YMMV
Only other aluminum checks (Sage's), I've used are for plain base bullets in a 9mm carbine. They work as advertised. I had a large supply of PB bullets to use up in the carbine. Haven't purchased anymore..........just don't cast PB anymore for the carbine. Have plenty of GC 9mm molds.
I have enough to do, other than making aluminum gas checks. I don't cut patches for cleaning or muzzle loaders, either. YMMV