...and dreams of "truck guns" danced in their heads.....

Glen

Moderator
Staff member
I don't know why, but I've long had this dream of putting together a "truck gun" -- a rattle-bang beater that doesn't matter if it gets scratched or dinged, that will be handy when needed out in the field, and can be counted on to deliver an accurate shot when called upon. Oh yeah, and will be fed a steady diet of cast bullets too. I've long been a fan of the 6.5x55 cartridge (I'm of Swedish ancestry, and a long-time fan of the 6.5 bore), so it's little surprise that many of these truck gun dreams were centered around a Swedish Mauser carbine. Well, a few years ago, I was over in Sequim, doing a little coastal blacktail hunting with a buddy of mine, and we went into town to grab some lunch. While there, we dropped into a LGS just to see if there was anything interesting for sale. Sure enough, there was a 1943 Swedish Mauser carbine (Husqvarna) that somebody had dropped into a sporter stock (complete with a HUGE Monte Carlo cheekpiece), with a very friendly price tag on it. I looked it over, and the bore and action were in very good shape, so I bought it. It wasn't until I got it home, and I took the barreled action out of the stock, that I realized that the stock was inletted for something completely different. I shaved the cheekpiece down (so I could get my eyes down to iron sight level) and refinished the stock. The gun looked nice, but groups ran 12+" at 50 yards. I tried epoxy bedding the action. No improvement. I tried more epoxy bedding. Still no improvement. The crown, bore and throat all looked good, so I figured it had to be the stock/bedding. I got a military take-off stock from a buddy, and groups promptly dropped down to the 1" to 1.5" range (again, at 50 yards). So the old stock was disposed of (a knife-maker friend needed some walnut to make knife scales with), and this spring I settled in to re-shaping and re-finishing the military stock to make it handle the way I wanted. The pistol-grip and forend were both too big and blocky for my tastes, so I slimmed them down, and added more radius. I fitted a new steel butt-plate. I slimmed down the butt-stock, and sanded out a lot of the old damage (scratches, dings, chips, etc.) to the wood. I have no idea what kind of Mystery Scandinavian Hardwood was used to make this stock, but I can honestly say that I have never worked with a wood that takes stain this poorly. Oh well, it's a truck gun, not the Mona Lisa. I topped things off with a tung oil finish. To complete the package, I have a Lyman Model 57 that is on order and will be getting installed after it shows up (and the battlefield ladder sight removed). The Swedish Truck Gun now weighs about 7 1/2 lbs, handles and points very nicely, and groups well. I like it!Swedish Mauser carbine 2.jpg
 

Ian

Notorious member
Just by looking at the photo and your description of its recalcitrance toward stain, I would say it is Beech. Nice job on getting it shooting again.

I don't know about you, but my experience with purpose-building a working gun whose appearance is the last consideration doesn't seem to work out...always seems to turn into something too nice to ding and scratch up. You've nearly done that here! Once you put that first big scratch on the forearm from taking a shot from the pickup window or top of a fence post, it gets easier.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
15 minutes rock chuck hunting and you'll forget you ever finished the forearm area of the stock.
 

Glen

Moderator
Staff member
And the Lyman Model 57 just showed up in today's mail! I think I know what I will be doing this weekend......
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Not to start an argument with the young guys, but free floating military barrels never worked for me. They were designed with up pressure, shoot better with up pressure and you should shoot what works. Fifteen years ago I built a 7.62 X 39 on a Springfield action for a truck gun and have never regretted it. Finns and Swedes both just used colored varnish for the top coat, and that made it look pretty.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
airc they also tensioned the screw behind the trigger guard pretty light to enhance that upward pressure.
 

Ian

Notorious member
It can go either way. Swedish Mausers tend to do ok free-floated because the steps in the barrel profile break up the nodes, and the bottom metal, IF bedded properly as one would stress-free bed a pillar system, is very solid. I've had the best luck final skim-bedding the action from tang to about 3-4" ahead of the receiver when doing the M96s.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
fiver, The 1903 Springfield was the first "pillar bedded" rifle. The rear screw was surrounded by a metal sleeve that made an exact length between the forged magazine assembly and the action. No matter what happened to the wood, exactly the same distance was maintained. The front screw compressed the wood, levering the barreled action down at the recoil lug and forged bayonet lug housing. That is one of the reasons the 1903 Springfield was the most accurate bolt action rifle of the 20th century.
 

KHornet

Well-Known Member
For the first time in a long long time I saw a rifle in a rack in a pick up in north eastern Kansas,
(north of Holton) a couple of weeks ago. Brought back memories of when we did not worry
about political correctness.

30 years ago about half the pickups in this party had gun racks with at least one rifle, often a
94 win. If I were to consider that I have a pick up gun, it would be my little Mosin carbine.
Not pretty, but short, light, reasonably accurate to 100.
 

Glen

Moderator
Staff member
Drilling and tapping this receiver for a Lyman Model 57 rear peep sight -- the first hole was no problem, zip, right through. The second hole, about a 1/2" away is harder than a streetwalkers heart.
 

quicksylver

Well-Known Member
Every pickup in town had at least one shotgun in a rack over the back seat...it stayed there day or night even if you were in the movie theater or shopping at the mall...says something about people back then..
 

Hummer

Member
I liked the shelf just back of window that mounted in holes the sunvisors were screwed into. Kept it hidden but handy. I think JC Whitney still sells them. I checked three years ago and there was not one for a 2500 HD and that irritated me.

People stopped doing it around here simply because punks were busting out back glass and stealing them.

Then there were the racks that mounted to seat and kept it handy right under your legs. Came with a cable and loop on end so it could be secured with a pad lock to stop the break and grab crowd.
 
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freebullet

Guest
People don't have gun racks in their trucks anymore? That reminds me I need to mount the one I have in my suburban.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Most of the 2500 HDs around here have overhead consoles that preclude the mounting of a shelf across the top of the windshield, so there's probably not much market for those that don't.

One of our long-time friends in town started a company called Gunnerfab, and he recently extended his line to gun mounts of all types. We've demo'd a few and the Army is contracted some as well: http://conditionzeromounts.com/collections/rackbone. This came to mind because my boss has a diesel Chevy extended cab and was on the hunt for some decent rifle racks for it for a long time before Rob came up with the Rackbone.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Went to check zero on my very accurate SS 116,'06 truck gun the other day and the bloomin reticle had come unmoored,doh.

Quick trip to the shop,little clear fingernail polish on the reticle screws,a shot of argon and it's back to normal.

POI shifted a half dz clicks,both ways,after the fix.Still,one very small ragged 3 shot hole @75yds.
 

Glen

Moderator
Staff member
Hard spot conquered! Lyman 57 mounted. Now all I need to do is remove the battlefield ladder sight.
Swedish Mauser rear sigh mountedt.jpg