Any guesses?

JonB

Halcyon member
I've scrounged lots of unknown lead and/or lead alloy. The bars can be anything a supplier would offer a buyer, and those markings don't tell "me" anything. So, I can only go by "looks", which is surely subjective. Judging only by appearance, I'd say they are both pure Lead. They both have that blue/grey age tarnish which is typical of pure lead, anything with tin, would not have age tarnish like that. They both have some handling dents, indicating it's gonna be something soft.
That's my 2¢
 

JustJim

Well-Known Member
With those bends, I'll bet Ric is correct. I'd expect most of the babbitts I've used to crack more. Check melting temp--50/50 melts around 375-425, most of the commercial babbits I've used have a higher melting temp.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
There was a Fisher Body plant near where I went to high school. In the '50's and early '60's car body seams were filled with solder before priming. Those guys were top paid workers who could make a smooth fill in just seconds.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
i've never seen one crack up like that,,, wow.
gotta remember that lead tin alloys will age soften over time, it comes back when you re-melt it though.


body lead come in all sorts of tin amounts.
the less tin the more flat the panel it was designed to be used on.

anyway.
it come from 5% up to 50%, and in shapes from little round 1/4" ropes, to star shapes, and even little flat ribbons.
i have about 15 lbs. of the various body lead shapes kicking around here i got from the wife's grandpa's garage.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
One thing... "Galvanized" usually means there's zinc in it. This is odd in this instance because you must remove all traces of zinc on any metal you're welding, and it's identified as a galv. weld alloy, whatever that may be. Galvanized? Galvanizing? I assume.
:headscratch:

Brad should be by soon, since I used the words "identified", and "assume" for bait.
 
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Mitty38

Well-Known Member
No guess here.The Galvaweld is 30,%tin/70%lead. Used for filling seams. It sticks to Galvanized metal really well with the right flux. They also sold zink products, like the old Zink Chromate.
The 111 is 50%/50% used for lead spooning. (finish and dent work)
That way if you are real good at playing with the flame, Spoon and cooling rag. You can finish over, or around the 30/70 without disturbing the seam fill.
111 was usually about 25% more expensive so often.
The galva weld (30/70) was also used to repair dents. But when it came to time and material waist. I don't think a fellow saved too much by not just using the 111.
I can still buy the Galvaweld in my state.
 
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Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Bit of trivia. There should be a dutch boy embellishment on the111 bar. If it was not a knock off brand.
It was originally sold by the dutch boy paint jobber. They used to sell lead and zink based body supplies and the old lead pigment Enamel.
Before Sherwin Williams bought them out. In the 80's.

There was a lot of back stock so original Dutch Boy 111 was available for some years after.
 
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Bit of trivia. There should be a dutch boy embellishment on the111 bar. If it was not a knock off brand.
It was originally sold by the dutch boy paint jobber. They used to sell lead and zink based body supplies and the old lead pigment Enamel.
Before Sherwin Williams bought them out. In the 80's.

There was a lot of back stock so original Dutch Boy 111 was available for some years after.
Thanks man for helping out. I might cut it up in small chunks and use it for tin additive