Anyone have the new LEE 9mm mold?

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I believe its called a 356-147TC. I thought I remembered a thread. But dont see/find it.

Its a dandy looker! I think Id like it better then the Lyman 356637 I have been using.
I have a few of these TC designs from LEE and they are winners for me.

Only place I see it offered is Titan 46$ 6cav on sale aint bad!
CW
 
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seagiant

Member
Hi,
The 2 grease grooves, don't turn me on...

My MP 357-135, suits me better!

MP 357-135 .jpg
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
sometimes when they get grumpy like that i'll get pissed off and run the mold up so hot i think it might warp.
the lead in cavities will take almost a minute to solidify, then i bring the mold temp back down to room temp and give it another run.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
sometimes when they get grumpy like that i'll get pissed off and run the mold up so hot i think it might warp.
the lead in cavities will take almost a minute to solidify, then i bring the mold temp back down to room temp and give it another run.
Yup me too. Been there done that.

Like a firm wrap across the knuckles. It usually works! ;)

CW
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
i hate to do that, but?

i had to do that to a Ruger 223 walking varmint rig once.
[wish i'd have kept that rifle now]
i was giving it the shoot and clean routine and going for groups [with 3 cent FMJ's no less] and it wasn't doin nuthin.
i finally just said screw it and sat there shooting and shooting a whole hundred rounds simply slowly shooting, blowing in the chamber, loading and firing.
it settled down and was shooting just about~over an inch at the end of the day.
i was still kind of pissed [and stupid, and young,,, LOL] and rarely used the rifle after that.
i'm positive a little bit of actual reloading knowledge, a good scope, and some effort would have got that rifle down to a consistent 1/2" 100yd. rifle.
probably just some good bullets would have done the trick.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
As soon as it stops smelling it will start to cast right. That coolant they use to cut the cavities stick on there really well. The other thing I have done besides the way over heating it is to get it to temp and immediately spray with brake cleaner. Do that a couple of times and they will play nice.
 

seagiant

Member
Hi,
Since my first trip to Spain years ago, became a Coffee Snob...

Only drink Cafe Con Leche, now using what they call a Mocha Expresso Pot...

The best are made of Aluminum so they can "season", just like an iron skillet.

I never Smoke, aluminum moulds always thought that useless, but...

The question, does aluminum moulds get better with age?

Do they season as well as a Coffee Pot???

cafe .jpg
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I don't know about seasoning but I think the aluminum moulds walk a fine line in normal use , that is reflected in the pot temperature discussions , of almost intangible impact work hardening and reannealed each use . The coffee pots are almost certainly heat and cool cycle age hardening every time you make a pot the difference is that 150° between the undesirable full boil (altitude increases this gap) and perfect casting temps which probably tip into annealing temps with the hard frost bullets that remind us to slow down and wave the open mould around for 30 seconds be fore the next pour .

Enter the abyss of alloy in 10,9,8..........
 

seagiant

Member
I don't know about seasoning but I think the aluminum moulds walk a fine line in normal use , that is reflected in the pot temperature discussions , of almost intangible impact work hardening and reannealed each use . The coffee pots are almost certainly heat and cool cycle age hardening every time you make a pot the difference is that 150° between the undesirable full boil (altitude increases this gap) and perfect casting temps which probably tip into annealing temps with the hard frost bullets that remind us to slow down and wave the open mould around for 30 seconds be fore the next pour .

Enter the abyss of alloy in 10,9,8..........
Hi,
Well, to me the same kind of coffee pot in SS is no good to me, because it does not season and gives a different taste.

Now what that has to do with bullet moulds, I do not know? :cool:
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
same as a brass mold.
the steel molds will also turn blue from oxidizing and they generally cast a lot better afterwords too.

i remember when me and Ian was doing some goofy stuff and one of the things we worked on was copper coating case necks using root killer and electricity.
anyway.
shortly after that he worked out a way to coat aluminum molds by anodizing them.
i thought about trying it out thinking i could do one blue one red one gold etc. so i could tell them apart easily, then i remembered i only had like 4 aluminum molds at the time one was a LEE, 2 were accurate, and one was an NOE.
now i have a few more due to cost and them being all i need.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
So, Anodizing acts like seasoning?

Never heard of that?
That is kinda interesting. maybe the anodizing and/or oxidizing acts like a smoked cavity--slows heat transfer just a bit. Most of my Lee moulds get their cavities smoked before use, and it holds up for 100+ casts. Most of my casting is DONE with 80-100 casts. Aluminum blocks heat up and cool off at light speed compared to Iron/steel. No experience with brass at all.
 
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Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
There are 2 types of anodizing. Color and hard. Color wears extremely fast as that is all it is. Hard is what they use on AR15 receivers and frying pans. Frying pans it is the most wear resistant non toxic coating there is besides baked on carbon. I think you can control the color by the temp it is done at. It has been many years since I looked into it. But I remember the Toyota dealer in town would take the chrome emblems off the cars and turn them gold by doing it. Then charge them for the price of new ones that were gold from toyota. Another scam dealers used to run.