Brass annealers

BBerguson

Official Pennsyltuckian
I’ve been thinking about an annealer for awhile. The one I really like is over $500 bucks and I just can’t myself to spend that kind of money. I don’t shoot competition, just purely for enjoyment. The little bit of annealing I’ve done is by chucking the brass into a cordless drill and “spin” it through a propane flame for X seconds. It’s not fast and 100% hands on but it gets the job done. I’d really like to build one but the structure would have be wood because I don’t have any metal working tools or the skills to run them. I do have a woodworking shop though... I’d need a couple of motors and maybe a timing relay for one of the motors, couple of switches maybe and the rest I can build. I think...

So, any of you ever made anything like this or do you own a pre-built annealer?
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
An Alternate Annealing Methodology

Ric Bowman (RicinYakima)​

Something as simple as annealing brass should not be as expensive or time consuming as it always seems to be in the doing. The following is not my invention, but that of Mike Rector, a noted metallurgist and engineer who also shoots Creedmoor Style BPCR. You only need three things: a PID lead pot controller, an aluminum plate that will float on the top of the lead pot and an aluminum cooling plate.

I have a small four pound Lee pot that is just about perfect. When almost full, I float a round plate of aluminum into which I have drilled a center hole for the PID probe to go to the bottom of the pot, and 12 blind holes for the case necks to fit into. I was only concerned with 30/06 case necks, so I used an 11/32” drill, but it requires sized cases or they stick when they get hot. The next time I get the drill press out I will open then up with the “S” size drill bit. It requires a temperature of 658 F. for one hour to anneal brass, but at 750 F. it only requires 30 seconds. The PID is set for 750 F.

The operation is simple: put 10 cases neck down in the holes one at a time, then with needle nose pliers, take the first in case out and set it head down in the aluminum block until you have all ten cooling. Put ten more into the floating plate, then remove them and put them into the cooling block. The first ten are cool enough to put back into the plastic boxes with bare fingers! But now the floating plate is back to temperature, so put in ten more cases, then put those to cool in the block. The second ten are ready to box up. It took me 20 minutes to do the first 100 cases, but in the next 30 minutes I did 300 more cases. There is a natural safety factor with cases over two inches in length. Regardless of the time I left an un-primed case heat, it would not get hotter than 650 F over one inch above the plate. I carefully checked with a heat stick crayon and 30/06 and longer cases loose heat so fast, it can anneal no higher than that at a setting of 750 F.

Some warnings: I tried to do 7.62 X 39 cases, but they have so little mass and are so short that it annealed almost up to the extractor cut in 30 seconds. 30/30 Winchester cases were done in 10 seconds, so you have to different timing and / or temperature values. The floating plate’s holes shrink as it heats, the first un-sized case I tried stuck and I had to take everything apart and cool it to get it out. There has to be enough lead in the pot for the plate to have full bottom contact, or you will not have the same heat on all cases.

April 10, 2014

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BBerguson

Official Pennsyltuckian
Interesting... I was going to ask if anyone ever dipped the cases into a pot of lead but obviously didn’t... I was of course thinking of just holding them in one at a time with a pair of pliers. Your method is pretty nice! I have the bigger Lee pot though, the bottom pour so i have pouring apparatus in the way.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I've done directly into lead but they need to be dirty and have plenty of soot on the necks to keep the molten alloy from sticking.

Lead Pot at the boolits site mentioned using a 4-lb dipper pot filled with fine sand to annealing brass but I would think the temperature control would be difficult, particularly as each case quenched the sand a little.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I use an auto annealer machine [Vertex].
but there is a few easy to make machines on the U-Tube.
induction anneal machines can be built for about 100 bucks if your some handy with electronics.
and those roller types can be built fairly easily.
 

Wasalmonslayer

Well-Known Member
I bought the annealeze and it works like a charm!
It chugs right thru a pile of brass lickety split and consistency is great!
I am all in for $300.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
be warned. it's fast you have to have all your stuff ready to go if your gonna make a run of like 500 cases.
I probably looked like an unrehearsed circus clown act the first time I tried doing a bigger batch of 223 cases.
 

Wasalmonslayer

Well-Known Member
I think I was looking at this one today. Is it made overseas and has a 3-5 lead time?

Pretty sure they are American made.
Mine says made in USA right on it with a flag.
Some of the electronics may not be but I think the guy that build em is in the US.

I ordered mine and was annealing in less than three weeks.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Commercial brass is normally polished after the final annealing. Military brass normally is not polished and you can see the anneal.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
I like the way annealed brass looks better than full polish. I know its neither here nor there but I think it looks better.
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
I have the Anneal-Rite system. It is a simple arrangement of brackets to hold two propane bottles with burners, and an aluminum socket that holds the case and pivots to place the case in the flame. Temp monitored with tempilac to establish time needed. It is simple enough that you easily make it yourself, yet inexpensive enough not to bother. When I bought mine they were $85. (some years ago) You also need two propane pencil burners.

In practice it is quick and easy, I anneal my 7-30Waters brass formed from 30-30 and my 6mm Rem. greatly extends case life. It only takes about 5 seconds a case.