Fixing a stock

[Josh]

I got my Dads early 1980's Remington 700 in 270 Winchester in a trade, this gun has lived for decades without a scratch... until now...

My Dad sent this off to me, he packed it in a great rifle case, taped the box like the stuff was free even insured it. So when I open the box to find he took the bolt out and didn't wrap it up I was sick. This stock was beat to hell by the recoil lugs and bolt handle. One spot in particular was very bad with a gouge taken out of it.

So I ordered in some specialty bits and a plug cutter from Amazon.com and a "sample" of black walnut from a wood company in Arizona. I plan on boring out the hole, cutting a plug, and filing and sanding to match the stock. Once I get it set in and finished I plan to strip it down and hand rub it with Boiled Linseed Oil and buff in a BLO/Beeswax over coat. This should bring out that old Winchester finish, almost satin.

I will take pictures of the progress, I have done a few stocks before but nothing like Ben does. If I can get this stock to look half as good as his worst stock, I will be happy as a clam.

 

[Ben]

Be aware that the rifle has Dupont Rynite ( Epoxy ) on it right now.
Takes about 2 hrs. with a good stripper that will soften the epoxy to strip and remove the old finish.

Not one of my favorite things to do...............

Ben

 

[Josh]

Be aware that the rifle has Dupont Rynite ( Epoxy ) on it right now.
Takes about 2 hrs. with a good stripper that will soften the epoxy to strip and remove the old finish.

Not one of my favorite things to do...............

Ben

What stripper do you prefer for such a task?

 

[Ben]

Here is a 700 Rem. that I did recently,

 

[Josh]

Now that's what I am talkin about! Beautiful stock Ben, if I can do half that I will be beside myself.

 

[Ben]

What stripper do you prefer for such a task?

My # 1 choice of all that I've used.
I buy it by the case.
I wish you the best on your project !
Keep us in the loop with some photos .

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/premium-stripper-aerosol

It quickly removes latex and oil-based paint, polyurethane, epoxy, varnish and shellac from wood, metal and masonry surfaces. The convenient 18-oz. aerosol can is an excellent choice for small projects, fast, easy application and beautiful results.

 

[Josh]

Excellent, walmart has that on the shelf, I will get a can next time I go.

 

[Ben]

Josh,

Not trying to tell you how to run your affairs.......BUT, be very careful with the grip cap, while line spacer and butt plate and while line spacer on the butt end of the stock.

The stripper can melt and totally ruin these items. ( Don't ask me how I know.......) Remove them before you begin stripping. Keep the stripper off the fore end tip. You may want to use Duct Tape to cover the fore end tip and while like spacer there also.

 

[Josh]

I will gratefully take all advice and wisdom, thankfully this is an old ADL without those extras. The only issue I have to deal with is the checkering, i have never done a hand rubbed finish over checkering.

 

[Rick]

What a shame that happened. Proof that just a moment of not thinking really can ruin your whole day.

 

[Ben]

I will gratefully take all advice and wisdom, thankfully this is an old ADL without those extras. The only issue I have to deal with is the checkering, i have never done a hand rubbed finish over checkering.

Josh,

Please check your InBox.

Ben

 

[Pistolero]

Before I removed any wood with that plug cutter, I would strip the finish and then
use a clothes iron and a damp rag to steam out those dents. You will probably be
able to completely remove them. If there is a still a shallow dent, I think you will find
a better result with a moderately soft rubber block and about 220 grit purple 3m Pro
sandpaper to lower the surrounding area a touch to blend in the small remaining dent.

I think that any plugging will be permanently visible, not matter how well it is done. Steaming
and sanding will be totally invisible after refinishing.

Best wishes for a great repair.

Bill

 

[Josh]

I plan to steamout the small stuff, but that large gouge has a lot of severed wood, i would be reshaping the whole cheek piece to make that blend in.

 

[Ben]

Why don't you just send me the stock and be done with it ?

Ben

 

[Josh]

Well I honestly thought of that, but there is an old saying:

It isn't the destination but the journey.

If I send it to a professional, I only learn an address and patience, if I do it myself the result may not be as nice but I will learn much more.

 

[JWFilips]

Josh you can't biscuit cut a stock "Hole" and make it look right You need to make the cut jagged to disguised the lines Cut it jagged inlet a similar piece of wood Stain it then alter the afterward to make it look natural. I learned a lot from Kit Ravenshere Doing 18th century restorations!
That is a big part of what I do in my shop http://www.jimfilipski.com/1stModBBessRest.html

 

[Ben]

I understand Josh.

Good luck.

Ben

 

[Josh]

Ok, got the plug in place, epoxy is drying as we speak, and I got it filed almost smooth. Once I strip the stock I will then sand everything perfectly smooth. This is looking pretty good so far.

 

[freebullet]

Well that's better than damaged wood. I think if I were guna fix that myself I would try to make an inlay. If you worked out a complementary design it could be better than before.
I have one I'm considering doing a simple deer bone inlay. I guess when you get it stripped/ sanded down all the way you'll see how well it blends.
I've seen those plugs not take stain as well as the surrounding before, that can throw a monkey wrench in plans. Looking forward to the progress report. Good luck.

 

[Josh]

I would love to do an inlay, I just doubt my ability to not be tacky. I did make sure to use a piece of walnut that was close to the same tone.

I am going to get the stripper on Monday and hope to have the stock stripped, sanded, and the first coat of oil on by Tuesday.