Getting it clean

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
No mold will cast decent bullets if it's not clean and the very best casting mold is a perfectly clean mold. There are many different ways people have of cleaning their molds and one of them is to use Gun Scrubber and blast off any grease or oils. It works, expensive but it works. Here's a tip, automotive brake cleaner is the same exact chemical as Gun Scrubber but is far less expensive and of course it also comes in a spray can. Want to reduce the cost even further? The nozzles on Gun Scrubber cans and many automotive brake cleaners are designed to release a lot of the product in hurry. Why? Well if you think about it it's because you use up the product much faster and buy more that much sooner. The nozzle on NAPA brand brake cleaner cans are smaller and release the product in smaller quantity's and of course the can lasts longer. And NO you don't need to empty the can all at once. The NAPA can has plenty of pressure to do the job while using less product.

An even cheaper method of getting your molds perfectly clean and the method I use is denatured alcohol and an old tooth brush. Maybe 25-30 years ago an article in Hand Loader magazine studied common mold cleaning methods, the part of the article that really stuck with me was that denatured alcohol is the only commonly available cleaner that will cut the oil and leave no residue in the cavities. I've used it ever since and have squeaky clean molds.

Smoking your mold? There is a secret about smoking molds and that is that it is an old wives tale. Yes, I know it's still in print in some places but that doesn't mean it's not an old wives tale that's dying a hard slow death. IF smoking your molds accomplishes anything it will be nothing more than an attempt to cover up some other problem. It is far wiser to find and fix the problem such as burs or oil or ??? as opposed to trying to cover it up. Mold release sprays are the same if not worse. Both can and will block vent lines. Next consider the logic, you just spent how much time & effort making sure your mold is squeaky clean so the very next thing your going to do is gunk it up. Really? The very best casting mold is a perfectly clean mold.

 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have used acetone but it is so volatile that it is a mess to work with- it evaporates too fast to really be useful.
I am a die hard Comet and hot water guy.
 
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358156hp

Guest
I'ce cut my brake cleaner usage way down. I use it on new moulds to remove the factory oil, and now I'm experimenting with not putting anything at all on the mould, and simply put them in Plano boxes with VPI paper, handles and all. So far so good, but now we have to make it through the toughest test of all, spring and summer in Nebraska. I've been told by family that it's worse than Florida.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Once my molds are clean they stay that way, no oil or anything else goes on them. Note: Clicking a picture will open a new window with a larger picture.



I use these air/water tight storage containers, notice the open lid and silicon gasket seal and latches on all four sides. In the third picture is how they are stored with the end of the container labeled by caliber to make finding a mold easy. I use two sizes, the ones shown in the picture hold 2 or 3 two cavity molds. The next size larger holds 3 NOE 5 cavity molds. Clean, dry, rust free and ready to make bullets.

Kind of hard to see but on the RCBS mold in the open box is a black band that holds the halves securely together, these are cut from bicycle inner tubes. A trick I learned from Erik Ohlen of Hollow Point Bullet Mold Service fame.
 
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358156hp

Guest
Pictures! Now if I can just get Photobucket to work right for me again.
I'm using the big Plano "fly" fishing boxes. There's room for 4 large moulds with handles. I currently have 5 in one because there's room in each slot for 2 single cavity Lymans, with handles. So my two hollowpoint moulds bunk together.
 
3

358156hp

Guest
mould%20storage_zpslwulbgp5.jpg


It's magic!
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
My iron moulds are on a shelf in the loading room. Most of the 6 cav Lee moulds are stacked on each other on the same shelves.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I recently converted to using denatured alcohol myself for cleaning. Previously I used chlorinated brake cleaner almost exclusively (being a mechanic it is my "go to" cleaner for virtually everything), but then I tried it on glass once and it left a white residue. Also, I was having trouble getting perfectly uniform finish appearance on my bullets cast from aluminum moulds when I cleaned them with brake parts cleaner. Denatured alcohol seemed to cure this, so I salvaged an empty spray bottle for application and keep that by my casting bench along with a clean toothbrush.

Smoke? I generally avoid it for the reasons mentioned, but have found that on occasion a very light "caramel coating" (as Al Nelson calls it) of butane ligher soot is a good way to break in a new brass mould and reduce the tendency of some alloys to "tin" the fresh cavities. A boil in water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid before use will also add a nice, non-stick patina to brand-new brass and aluminum moulds. Once a mould is sufficiently seasoned I find that the cavities need no maintenance whatsoever under proper storage conditions.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
I learned something new already. Only been on the forum an hour or so.

Been spraying my molds with LPS #3 or G96 when I know they're going to sit for a while. clean them with denatured alcohol or if really crusty, Gunk followed by denatured alcohol. Years ago, used methyl chloroform (1-1-1 Trichloroethane) to clean moulds. As a kid I remember dad using MEK. I'm a little smarter today and stay away from the real nasty stuff.

Going to steal Rick's idea and invest in some Snapware and stop wasting money spraying and cleaning.

smokeywolf
 

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
Once I clean a new mold, I never gunk it up with anything. In 50 years, never had a rust problem storing them in GI ammo cans.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
No one mentioned Dish soap, Hot tap water, and a tooth brush.
Makes me wonder if there is a reason no one else uses such a simple procedure... the water ? some residue ?
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I use Comet and a toothbrush along with lots of water. It just works for me.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
No one mentioned Dish soap, Hot tap water, and a tooth brush.
Makes me wonder if there is a reason no one else uses such a simple procedure... the water ? some residue ?

For me it's both, I'm not dunking any of my molds in water plus soap does leave a residue. Add to that my mold cleaned in alcohol is assembled & pre-heating while your waiting for yours to dry off hoping it won't rust. I haven't found anything any quicker than the alcohol & toothbrush.

Not knocking the soap & water cause lot's of folks it seems use that method but it's not for me thanks.

Brad Comet is abrasive, are you using that on your brass & aluminum molds?
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I know it is a mild abrasive but with gentle scrubbing with a toothbrush and lots of water I haven't had it damage anything yet., I don't see even fine scratches on Al moulds.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
I'm with Jon. I've always used an old toothbrush with Dawn detergent and boiling water to clean all my molds. A quick blast of air from the compressor completely dries them then they go right to the hotplate for preheating.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I use Comet and a toothbrush for the first cleaning of a new mold. The mild abrasive choice is
a careful one, my intent is to lightly deburr the mold and scrub the surface with a mild crosshatch
finish, plus really remove any remaining oils. Afterwards they are stored on the shelf, or if they
are iron molds, in ammo cans with dessicant. I would not recommend cleaning an aluminum
mold a couple dozen times with Comet - I expect it would eventually round over the corners,
but I am certain that a single cleaning is no problem and I generally have no problems with burrs.

Rick -- Where did you find the nice latching boxes? My wife picked up a couple in India a few
years back but I have never seen them here.

I foolishly tried smoking (recommended by Lee) and found it did nothing but make a mess of
the mold, and once I learned that smaller is worse --- smoking makes it smaller. I once tried
some 'mold release spray' from MidwayUSA, and it was almost like grey paint, probably graphite
or molydisulfide, either way hard to clean out of the mold and ultimately, I learned later,
entirely unnecessary - and makes the bullets smaller.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Bill, those are Snapware brand food storage boxes from the grocery store, they were about $4 each when I bought them. I've got quite a few of them but I bought them one or two at a time over 2 or 3 years. When grocery shopping I would add 1 or 2 to the weeks grocery bill. It appears the size most of mine are now sell online for $4.50.

If your store doesn't carry them you can order online. They make most of their sizes in glass also but I prefer the plastic for the shop.

http://www.shopworldkitchen.com/snapware/?src=015d6cd3fb4628e2dcd8#start=0&sz=12
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have also used that awful Midway mould release. Talk about a mess! Only place I can see any use for it is as a coating on the top of a mould to prevent some lead smearing or galling. Good thing it only went into a couple moulds!
 

Reloader762

Active Member
A few years back I purchased two old 38 cal. pistol molds at a LGS for $25 each,one with handles that came from an estate sale,they still had the last pouring left in the mold. One was the Lyman/Ideal 357443 the other Lyman 358477 SWC.

Being these were my first iron molds I sent Ed Harris an PM on how best to clean and preserve them. Mr. Harris told me to clean them with Bon Ami cleanser powder and a soft tooth brush first,wash well and dry the block on my hot plate,when I'm ready to store the blocks I should coat them with a light coating of USP Mineral oil. Mineral Oil is non toxic and leaves no residue on the blocks and produces only a small whiff of white smoke when the mold is preheated on my hot plate before casting.

Two bullets I saved from the old molds.
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